Adamw

I have moved your post to a new thread since it wasnt relevant to the other users 5V query.

This should do it:

There is no CAN transmit functionality in the IQ3S, only CAN receive. So it can receive data from the ecu but it cant transmit any data to the ECU. If the pressure sensor is a 3 wire then you could splice into its signal wire and feed that into the ecu. Similarly you could splice into a temp sensor signal wire and feed it into an AN Volt channel. The GPS speed wont be able to be used.

The White wire on the dash is CANH, connect this to pin 3 in the CANF plug. The Blue dash wire is CANL, connect this to Pin 4 in the CANF.

Very few aftermarket ECU's have configurable CAN bus inputs, so it is not going to work with many other brands.

Are you sure it only takes a max 5V pwm? That would be very unusual to be limited to 12V. Just two resistors would divide it down to 5V if really needed. What controller is it?

You cannot have a PC connected at the same time as a serial dashboard. The dash should be connected to CAN H/L just like the Lambda.

I dont know sorry, it is something you will have to investigate yourself. The car that I discovered this on it would happen at exactly 8300RPM everytime, there were some other strange issues that made me suspect vibration such as the crank sensor had failed several times. I put a scope on the E-throttle motor and found the ECU was sending max voltage but the current was fading away to zero indicating there was no connection through the brushes. So it seemed there was some very serious resonance going on around that RPM. It was a fairly serious race car with sequential etc so I dont know what it had for a flywheel etc and how or if it had been balanced - but on this car the re-fitting the factory damper was enough. It maybe possible that a good quality aftermarket damper will be tuned for a different resonant frequency to shift it outside of normal operation.

It is not the ECU causing it. Either: The valve is the wrong way around - as I mentioned there are many variations of the ford valve, some have the inlet/outlet port swapped end for end. There is inadequate vacuum in the manifold. Some of the ford valves have an assist diaphragm inside and need vacuum to close. The valve is faulty.

You will need to connect an AC signal to a DI and set that as "AC Request". You will also need to assign an output (Aux, fuel or Ign) to "AC Clutch" (this doesnt need to be wired to anything - just the ecu needs to think it is controlling the clutch for the AC fan function to work).

Yeah I have seen this before on a Honda K and a R35 GTR - there is some very strong resonant vibration at high RPM that causes the brushes in the DBW motor to "bounce" off the armature and lose contact. If the motor can come apart then you may be able to put stronger springs in it. Otherwise you need to reduce the engine vibration or try a different throttle body and hope it is better. One Honda I diagnosed was cured by re-fitting a damper on the crank nose (had been built with a light weight pulley).

The anti-theft function doesnt have a "latch" function to enable a momentary switch to work, but you could achieve what you want by setting the DI up as a GP input and using this on a GP limit table (or 3D RPM or 3D Map limit table). With the settings below, the ECU will always boot up with the kill DI "on". The kill DI wont turn off until you hit the button and will stay off until either the button is hit again or the ign is switched off. You can then put that DI status on a GP limit so that the REV limit is 0 when the switch is on (eng wont run).

Oh, I see the problem. You have both Aux 1 and Aux 4 set to L/H Inlet VVT cam solenoid. Your label on aux 4 was hiding that. So Aux 4 is not a VVT solenoid, this should be set to "Cam switched".

I would turn the Ftrim tables off to start with to keep it simple. Set your TP, TP delta, MAP and MAP delta lockouts to something suitable. You can look at logs to see what deltas you exceed during transients. From memory it will work with the deltas set to zero but the MAP and TP lockouts will need a proper value entered. I would also suggest you want to set up the error high/low on your lambda analog input so that it fails safe (with ANV6 error value = 0.000) if the sensor fails or a wire falls off etc. Rate and gain something like below will usually not be far off:

It seems to work ok for me. Are you doing this online or offline? If offline, is the map you are working with from an ecu with the latest firmware?

You have 0 in your accel cold correction table. Our default cold correction settings below. Also, I suggest you go to main fuel settings, turn asynchronous injection on and set min async PW to 0.5ms. Then you will usually need very little accel enrichment if any.

I dont see what you are talking about. The ECU is sending a constant 29%DC in your log which is exactly the value that you have commanded in the base position table for 90°C. Also be aware most of those Ford idle valves are vacuum assisted so it is important that they are mounted with the correct port to vacuum (early and late valves swapped direction), and the engine needs to make a reasonable level of vacuum for them to function properly.

No you dont need a speed input. If you have no speed input the the ecu will see zero speed all the time so the disarm speed will obviously not work so you will just have to disable by some other means such as a clutch switch or timer etc.

The aux output runtime will always show off for PWM functions. The on/off status only works for basic on/off functions like fuel pump etc. I assume you have already done the cam angle test to check your offset? If not start by doing that to ensure the reported position is correct. But I suspect your cam is mechanically stuck. You can see in the log the ecu is sending max DC to the solenoid the whole time, then towards the end of the log the cam position suddenly jumps up to 42deg and the RPM changes. The ecu then drops duty cycle trying to pull the cam back to minimum and it doesnt return immediately either. One test you can do is run the engine at idle or just above, the set aux 1 to test pwm, if the RPM and note doesnt change then your cam is not moving.

You need to calibrate the gear ratios. Instructions are in the help file.

I saw this happen to an evo with a new kiggly kit just a while ago. The stock evo trigger mode uses both the rising and falling edges on the crank to effectively give it twice as many teeth. It seems sometimes when you change from evo trigger mode that rising/falling mode doesn’t get re-initialised. Try changing to Subaru V1-6 mode, do a store, power cycle, then change back to the correct multitooth settings. The Subaru mode should overwrite the edge settings.

With Key on, engine not running, open the runtimes screen (hit F12 key) and go to the analog tab. Tell us what the MAP and BAP parameters read.

Might have to clarify what you want to do here. Do you want the ecu to control the AC clutch, or is that controlled by some other module in the car?

I made a few tweaks to the supplied map so it is a bit closer. I cant find any info on the calibration of a AE86 MAP sensor so you will have to research that yourself. Set up for the 36-1 trigger wheel with a hall sensor, if it has any adjustment I suggest lining up the tooth after the missing tooth gap so it is pointing at the sensor with the engine sitting at roughly 90deg BTDC (i.e. all pistons halfway down the bore). You will have to check all inputs and outputs are assigned to match your wiring. MRP Full AE86 4AG 16V Startup COP 550cc 36-1.pclx

im not 100% sure what this means, but there is a note in our system that reads something like "Flipped WRX10 inputs & outputs around to match bank numbers", So it was possibly just they had it set up with bank 1 on the wrong side of the engine. The built-in analog cal table for the AEM was wrong, if yours is connected via CAN it wouldnt have an affect. If yours is connected by analog input then the ecu would have displayed lambda a bit leaner than actual at the rich end of the scale. Thanks for that. I will get it reported. The firmware engineer was nervous about breaking something there, apparently there where huge changes to the way those lists work to speed up the connection and search. I dont personally use the ecu settings search much, but tested it over a couple of weeks of day to day use and never stumbled on to this issue. I obviously didnt try every letter of the alphabet...