Adamw

It is not your ISC speed lockout, that is there to prevent the ECU closing the throttle during over run, turning it off will likely make things worse. I would increase the idle ignition speed lockout to about 22km though which may help. I would also make the whole top row of your E-throttle target table 3.0%, and you might still need to add 0.2% or a bit more for the engine fan step. I suspect also the area I have highlighted in your fuel table below may need increasing and flattening out as it goes lean just before it stalls in most places in the log but try the above changes first.

It shows correctly for me in the Aux 8 menu. If it doesnt for you, can you attach a copy your map. Yeah, looks like an oversight there sorry. What I would suggest as the easiest option, is temporarily set your AN Volt channel to "Voltage 0-5V", then do the calibration and note down the voltges, change it back to Rotary Oil pump position after doing that open close step.

If you dont yet have a Monsoon then you could attach your tune file here and one of us can load it into a monsoon to convert it for you

Can you do a short PC Log when the ambient temp gauge is bouncing around then attach the log and a copy of your tune here.

I assume you are in Europe? Another option you have is you can ship to our UK office and Dave will be able to test it there. Contact [email protected] if you want to do that.

Can you do a similar PC Log with all parameters logged, the ECU log doesnt have many channels that are useful for diagnosis. Also, you are on very old firmware - like 5 years old. It would be well in your interest to update that before tuning much further as there have been several improvements since then, especially knock control.

OBD2 is a bit slow and laggy for a dash in my opinion. With OBD bluetooth you have not only custom CAN and power wiring to do but also a bluetooth serial connection to establish so if you are struggling with USB which is the most simple direct plug and play option available then it is probably a backwards step to change to OBD2. There is a new fast bluetooth CAN option that I will be testing soon for Realdash but I suggest you get USB working first.

Yes, but you will need a whole lot more energy than a heat gun. It not only needs to heat all the air, but the whole intake system, pipework, and anything else before the air temp sensor. You also want quite a noticable change in air temp - at least 5 deg, preferably 10. Blocking the intercooler airflow on a turbo car usually works or ducting hot air from exhaust or radiator into the airbox on a NA car is needed.

The maximum ohms figure you can input in a cal table is 65000, this is because it is limited to 16bits resolution. Even with a temp sensor that only goes to 65000ohm, when you put that in a circuit with a 1000ohm pull-up resistor your resolution is so poor that it is about the limit that is useful. If you really wanted to you could convert to volts and do the cal in volts but 400Kohm would use up the full 4.99V input range so it wouldnt give you any ability to use the error detection for failed/disconnected sensor. So unless you really need to measure your oil temp down to -40 I wouldnt suggest doing that, failsafes are far more important. In other words, that sensor has been designed with a resistance curve to give good resolution and accuracy around normal oil operating temperatures - ie 80-150C, with no consideration for its ability to measure sub-zero temperatures. If you convert to volts it outputs 4.988V at -40C and 4.983V at -35C, so only a 0.005V change for 5deg, which the ecu with 10bit ADC's will barely be able to measure. So the approach you have taken by starting the calibration at -10°C is the correct solution. That also gives you a little bit of voltage at the top end to incorporate error conditions.

Get some integral gain in there now and that will close up that long term drift.

Sorry, after giving it more thought this morning, measuring resistance across the CAN wires with ignition off is no use as the termination resistor inside the ECU will be disconnected when power is off. You cant really check with it powered up as the CAN data will upset the resistance measurement. The the measurement results that you have got earlier are normal. Yes, that is normal, if the lambda device doesnt receive a valid CAN measage from the ecu within 15 seconds of power up then it will power up the heater. So this observation means your Lambda device has got power but no CAN message. The CAN errors in the Runtimes screen means the ECU is sending out data but not getting any acknowledge message. Do you have or know anyone with an oscilloscope you could borrow to put on the CAN wires? Or are you able to temporarily move your CAN wires from the CAN 2 pins to the CAN 1 pins? You can possibly just hold them on the pins by hand as a test.

That last one again looks pretty similar to the P=8 but it is closer to values that I would normally run. If you ECU log at 100Hz instead of PC log you will see a bit more detail of the response difference but you will never notice any difference in real life and both of these look quite acceptable.

Vaughan just pointed out to me that it is probably not showing up in logging because it is a new parameter that you havent added to your logging list. So go to PC logging setup and hit "Add all" again.

The ECU has a 120ohm resistor inside. You say you have a 120ohm resistor at the CAN lambda end. So total combined resistance when you measure across the CAN wires should be about 60ohm, not 119ohm that you say you measure. So there is a disconnection somewhere. One of the CAN wires is not making proper contact at one end. Check that the pins in the DTM connector are pushed all the way home, I have seen those push back out before if they are not inserted into the housing all the way until the barb locks them.

When the clutch is disengaged there is no longer a fixed relationship between RPM & speed, so the gear cant be calculated.

So that suggest either you dont have the terminating resistor fitted or one end is disconnected. Did you fit a 120ohm terminating resistor at the CAN lambda plug? That doesnt usually stop them from working but it is proper practice to have a resistor at the end.

They all actually look quite acceptable, and the error accumulator is good now. But yes I tend to agree the P8 I 0.080 D 60 is probably the best with slightly better response when closing.

But the ST185 didnt have a air temp sensor - or are you using a coolant temp sensor? I asked you to measure the resistance. What was the resistance at 20deg?

Your screen shots suggest you have a CAN bus wiring problem. With the ignition off, can you measure the resistance across the CANH/L wires. Do this with everything still plugged in by "back probing" at one of the connectors by pushing a couple of pins or paperclips or similar down through the wire seals into the terminals. You should have about 60ohms if both ends are connected and the terminating resistor is there.

That will all be set automatically when you choose LS2/LS7. I would expect falling on both.

I have never used the normalise feature, but in my mind if you are telling the ecu to normalise to say 5th gear then you cant calibrate any other gear until it knows what the total 5th ratio is (including final drive). But if you just do it from the log like Vaughan explained I would expect it to work fine. Yep you're right, they've got something linked up there wrong by the looks, I will pass that on.

Try the LS2/7 (90 offset) mode. Trigger offset will likely be close to zero.

The 4 tooth + sync in the distributor will run it fine and still give you sequential and direct spark capability. But for a number of reasons that I will mention below it is a very low accuracy trigger system so provided you have the engineering and/or financial resources to fit a proper crank trigger system then its well worth doing. 4 teeth on the cam is effectively the same as 2 teeth on the crankshaft. That means the ECU only gets 1 update on crankshaft position every 180 degs. Anywhere between those two teeth the ecu can only guess position based on the length of time the last tooth took to arrive. A lot can change in 180 degs, so that is a lot of room for error. The main thing you see with a low tooth count trigger is you get lots of timing scatter at low RPM and during transients where the crank is speeding up or slowing down quickly you get lots of timing drift. The more teeth you have the better but the laws of diminishing returns applies. Once you get to about 36 crank teeth you only see very small changes by going more. To make matters worse your trigger is attached to the cam. It is the crank position that is important for spark control, so this is what the trigger is trying to determine. Your trigger is attached to the camshaft that is exposed to all the valve train resonance then via a coupling that usually has lots of mechanical backlash, then the cam is connected to the crankshaft via a toothed fiber belt which has a few degrees of elasticity and further backlash in the drive teeth and tensioner system. So its not a great way to determine the crankshaft position... I have changed a few classic cars from a distributor to crank trigger ignition in the past and it is well worthwhile gains. Typically better starting and idle etc, significantly better torque curve through transient conditions and if the engine is high compression or knock limited you can see quite serious gains. I have a good dyno chart somewhere of a Peugeot 205 that I converted from distributor to crank trigger a few years ago, I will see if I can find it later.

If its not already too late, can you try the calibration below. Looking at it again this morning I found the GM ecu that those sensors are designed for use a 5.1V power supply, so many of the published calibrations ( and possibly the cal in the G4 are wrong when a sensor is powered by 5V). There are also two diffrent variations of formula given on the delphi data sheets which both give different results! So below is my best guess.

I would agree with Vaughan's comment, from the extra noise you have on the lambda trace it suggests you have a misfire or at least 1 cylinder with very poor combustion. It is definitely not due to an increase in torque or efficiency - probably quite the opposite.