Adamw

Yes, it should be no drama running it in a KA24DE car provided it has the 64pin connector and similar pinout to the SR's. The ecu has jumpers onboard to take care of the pin differences between distributor and COP engines as well as a few of the other pin differences. I know it works in almost all other Nissans that take the 64pin ecu, GTiR's, N14, N15, P10, P11 primeras etc.

To be honest to the average end user you will notice little difference, the G4+ can still control the engine very well under all conditions. If you are going to be paying a professional to tune it and are unlikely to be messing around with functions yourself then I dont see a significant advantage in upgrading. On the other hand, if you are a "tinkerer" and interested in playing around with it yourself then you will probably enjoy the more regular updates and new features that the X will get as well as more flexible CAN, logging, Math and aux tables etc. As Mapper says, one of the most noticable changes in the G4X is how much easier it is to get good idle behavior, you could still get good idle control in G4+, but it took more work. Most of the core functions have seen small improvements in flexibility, more lockouts and ability to turn on extra tables etc. Closed loop lambda, boost control and knock control are improved, there are new hardware additions such as 3 axis accelerometers onboard. Functionality specific to the RB/GTR is the Nissan 360 opto trigger mode has been improved with better stability at high RPM and quicker sync for quicker start up.

As far as I know we have not been given any information to make a trigger mode to support it. We will need at bare minimum a 2 channel scope capture of the crank and cam. Preferably a 3 channel capture including #1 spark if you have a running engine.

What ECU CAN port do you have the dash connected to? You have both CAN 1 & CAN 2 set up with a dash stream.

The "A Loom" that Link make is made to cover the full range of ECU's, so there are spare wires when used with a Atom. You can easily pull out any you are not using, keep them in a safe place in case you want to add anything later. Here's a quick video showing how they come out: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1MnJlNTBhX_ccv40PbVgIi9XTy4HbXEfJ/view?usp=sharing

The ECU will take a AC/VR sensor directly, connect one side of the sensor to sensor ground and the other side to a DI. It may not work at very low speeds due to the low voltage output but they will usually work from about 10kmh and up.

The RPM limit status runtime will only show "active" when you are actually on the limiter. It obviously is not active until you reach the RPM limit.

Yep, fixed.

Yeah I think this is a decent idea, it could potentially also cover the drift guys that swap diff ratios regularly.

It is still a narrow band and still no use for tuning. 3 wire and 4 wire are effectively the same, the 4th wire is just a ground, the 3 wire grounds through the body. So a 4 wire is nicer in that it doesnt ground through chassis ground. You can control the fan relay with the ecu if you have a spare aux output. Digital inputs are mostly used for switches, hi/low boost, launch control, etc. They are also used for speed sensors and flex fuel sensors.

Yeah there is a bug in the current version with ISC override & Cyclic override (I think from memory only if you had a 3 wire idle valve?), it has been fixed in the next release. I suspect it will be released very soon, I will check on the plans on Monday, if there is any delay I can get you a release candidate if you need it urgent. PS, I think you can get around it by temporarily changing the idle actuator to solenoid, then turn antilag on again, the ISC override will be correctly assigned, then change the actuator back to 3 wire.

Most of our plug-in ecu's only have low side drive aux outputs as OEM applications rarely use high side. Only the Storm, Xtreme, Fury, & Thunder wire-in ECU's have high side drives available.

Attach your ecu tune and the dash config and I will set it up

There is an idle ignition function but you will likely need to open the throttle stop a little too. With the engine warmed up lock the ign timing to 5deg (open set base timing screen) then adjust the throttle stop so that the idle speed is sitting at about what you want with no loads running (fan etc). This will get the throttle is a good place to allow good idle control from the idle ignition control function. From there close the base timing screen, turn on idle ign control and set it up like below as a starting point. Will need adjusting from there.

Can you attach a log and your tune so we can see what you are talking about.

Can you attach a log of it cranking.

Again, im assuming you are talking about aux outputs, because your question is not clear. An output would not normally be referred to as a "trigger" so Im not sure if you are actually referring to digital inputs? But if you are talking about aux outputs - then there are no highside outputs on the GTR plug-in, only lowside (connect to ground when activated).

Normal aux outputs are not synchronised to engine operation - it would just be squirting at a fixed frequency all the time. You can vary duty cycle with boost or whatever, but it wont be timed with the other injectors.

You may also need to turn on the pull-up in the DI settings depending on how the circuit works

Do you mean outputs? Some ecu's have high side drives. What particular ECU do you have?

Do you have a G3 Link plus or the small G3 LEM? The LEM only has 2 injector drives so you wont be able to do aux injection. The G3 Linkplus has 8 drives so that should be able to do it.

What wiring problem did you find? Was it related to aux 4? It sounds like possibly aux 4 is fried? They are over current protected so usually the only way you can damage them is by feeding 12V directly in to one when the output is activated.

Analog inputs are weakly pulled down so they should sit ver close to zero with nothing connected, the temp inputs would usually be pulled up (not always) so will sit near 5V with nothing connected. Remember the fault/error settings will likely override these displayed values if the input is above or below the error settings.

Coolant temp will need its own dedicated sensor for the dash. Does it have an oil pressure gauge or is it just a lamp? Rev counter answered in Q3. That is still a narrowband and no use for tuning, I would suggest getting a wideband. Possibly it will work with an aux connected direct to the tacho. However many tachos that are connected direct to the coil or distributor are what is known as a "high level" type, they rely on a ~50V signal from the coil to trigger them. I dont know if this car has a high level or low level tacho. If it is high level you will need a "tacho booster" device connected between the ecu aux output and tacho. something like this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/TACH-TACHOMETER-SIGNAL-BOOSTER-3-16V-In-48-63V-Out-compare-to-MSD-8920-/142171581596 You only need 3 wires. Pin 4 = +12V (from and ign switched relay), Pin 1 = Ground (ground to head) and Pin 2 = signal from ecu (ign 1-4). That sounds more like an oil pressure switch for a warning light rather than a pressure transducer.

Your cam sensor is not working in the triggerscope, it looks like it is possibly wired wrong as it is sitting at 1.5V which is not normal.