Adamw

The default settings for Nissan 360 opto in the G4X is Trigger 1 edge should be set to rising and trigger 2 edge set to "all". Yours are both set to falling at the moment. So set it back to the defaults and let us know if that doesnt solve it (you will need to check base timing again).

In the TPS setup, check that the TPS (Sub) 100% setting is set to 100% if both sensors span the full range or something suitable if they dont. This setting I dont think is set automatically as part of the calibration in G4X like it used to be.

I think you will have to send it in for inspection. A service job like this would typically only be NZD$150

Leave the sync tooth at 1. You only need to change it in special cases. Yes, Cam pulse 1X is correct for trig 2.

What I want is a list of what you really need on the dash - the bare minimum you need - as with trying to duplicate the haltech stream there will be limitations to the number of channels you will get so there may be comprimises. Obviously, RPM, ECT, Speed - what else.

Yeah, that should do it fine. I believe also you can just leave the PWM disconnected and those alternators default to charging at 13.8V. The PWM is mainly used by the OEM to drop alternator load at cruise conditions for fuel economy and emissions. Probably not ideal to do that in an aftermarket situation where you often have vague or guessed injector characterisation etc.

Can you attach the tune and a short PC log of it running preferably when it is exhibiting the problem. Im not sure if the M50 is susceptible, but I remember in the early 90's some BMW's that I played with the rubber inside the crank pulley would come loose and the pulley would slip around, if you didnt notice the timing would be miles off and would appear to keep changing.

I dont sorry. Toyota stuff is generally easy to find with a web search.

A couple of things your should change. Both trigger 1 & 2 arming threshold, change to example below will be a better starting point. In fuel main settings, change fuel system type to MAP referenced, since you dont have a fuel pressure sensor assigned you cant use the FP Sensor fuel system type. Your ECU is still disabled so you need to get an unlock code from the dealer before it will run. Yes, the coil is a non amplified coil so will need a separate ignitior.

The map you attached is from an old firmware, not the current firmware. So if this map came from the ecu as it is now then it is still running old firmware. But it does show a lot of trigger errors so I suspect this is your problem. There two aspects that have changed in newer firmware that may affect you: The trigger arming threshold table now starts at 500RPM rather than 0RPM. You may need to lower the value in the first two cells. I suggest setting as per my example below for both trig 1 and trig 2. The trigger 2 edge was wrong in early firmware versions and was fixed in newer versions, this may change your offset, so you need to check your base timing again. For your switched cam, what aux output is the solenoid connected to?

Assuming you have verified that 2V with a multimeter then yes, I would say it is possibly faulty orthe thermocouple is the wrong type or failed or there is a wring problem. If you short the two thermocouple +/- pads together on the PCB with a paperclip or something do you then get 0V output from the amp? If you disconnect the thermocouple from the amp and measure the voltage across the thermocouple wires directly, how many mV do you get? Should be about 1mV at room temp. 400°C is about 16mV.

So doe no data show on the dash? Do you get errors in the CAN runtimes? It is not in the default generic dash stream, you can add it easily on the link end but I dont think you can customise anything on the haltech end. What do you want to actually display on the dash - we might be able to work around it by duplicating the Haltech stream. Get it working with the Link stream first though.

I suspect it is the fuel table needs flattening in that area, the logged fuel table value in that area is bouncing between 47-70%. Since the exhaust gas is moving through the system so slowly at low engine speeds you cant see the rich/lean cycling on the lambda.

No, you want to keep the water temp as constant as possible while trying to vary the air temp only. Not always possible but that is the aim. Cardboard blocking the intercooler air flow may work.

Colours dont matter usually there will be pin numbers on the connector or plug housing somewhere.

Pedal; 5V 5V Sensor ground AP Main Sensor ground AP Sub

With ignition off, can you unplug the ECU, then measure resistance between the Aux 5/6 pins in the ecu loom plug. Then do the same for the aux 7/8 pins. Report those resistances - that will at least confirm both sets are connected to the same pair of coils. Your pump will have the 8pin plug right? For the position sensor, in the diagram below, G/B is the signal, BR/W is 5V & BR/B is Gnd. Can you tell me what you have connected to the other 6 pins below:

Yes, either is fine (the shield/gnd pins are the same as the "ground out" pins - connected to sensor ground internally). On the Link looms we splice trig 1 ground, trigger 2 ground, and the two shields all to the shield/gnd pin A7.

Whats the engine code in this car?

Try contracting Mark Panic - www.panicmade.com, Im pretty sure he makes a Monsoon adapter loom for the AW11.

Did you try adjusting the master fuel yet? I dont know if we can trust your wideband but it shows very lean in the log.

No need to pull covers off, the MonsoonX has a triggerscope so you can see what you are dealing with. But most of the non VVT duratecs are 36-1 on the crank, single tooth on the cam, both sensors are reluctor, trigger offset is usually around -90 or 270 The coil will likely need a dual channel ignitor.

I have seen the visibility settings get messed up before if something has been set up in a odd order or something. Go to aux 8, change its function to "off", then change it back to Rotary oil pump, I think that should unhide the stepper type setting.

Yes, for sequential with a 12 evenly spaced tooth crank wheel you will need a single tooth on the cam. if you want to run the stock 10 tooth cam you will have to run the matching 36-1-1 pattern on the crank. Or you could grind one tooth off the crank wheel to make it 12-1 and run it wasted spark without a cam sensor at all.

Maybe Im understanding it wrong, but if you interpolated the table data using the same polynomial as a non linear axis had then wouldnt it effectively give you same result as having a linear axis with linear interpolation? So in other words exactly the same as just keeping the first and last axis value and deleting all breakpoints in-between? As an example if I interpolated this table from the far left cell to the far right cell using the same curve as the axis, then it would give me the result below. I would get exactly the same control output from the table if I deleted the 5 & 20 columns.