Adamw

Yes they will take 12V. But you dont need 12V. If you turn the pull-up on, the DI will already be connected to 12V internally, so it sees 12V when the switch is open, then your switch closes it grounds it. So you have two states, 12V & 0V, on and off. If you see no change in status when you have the pull up turned on then either your switch is not working or you have a wiring problem.

You have trigger 1 set wrong, it should be set to cam, not crank.

Those files are password protected.

Yeah your log shows it is not happy with the trigger, only shows RPM very occasionally. Can you please attach the tune.

Can you attach the actual log and the tune. If there are sparks at the coil lead but not coming out of the distributor then that would suggest the rotor is not pointing at a post when a spark occurs - try shifting the trigger offset by about 45 degs at a time to see if you get a spark.

Can you attach the tune, Ill take a quick look.

Do us a PC log so I can see what is causing it.

The trigger looks ok to me I think. Can you do us a short PC log of it cranking, and attach a copy of your latest tune too. Are you checking for spark going in to the distributor or coming out?

For the settings overflow error, update to the latest firmware should fix that. The E-throttle relay needs to be a real aux, not virtual aux, so sorry you got bad advice there. Aux 16 is a good option since you cant use it for anything else. The TP tracking error means you need to calibrate the throttle position sensors.

Nothing leaps out at me in your tune. For checking the timing, is your timing light clamped on to an old HT lead between the coil and spark plug? Can you do us a short log of it cranking.

No, the wiring is fine as it is, just turn the pull-up on

Since one side of your switch is ground, you will need the DI pull-up turned on.

That's why Im suggesting it is a bad idea to do it with a hold and decay. Every time you press the button a new offset would get added on top of the last one that is still active/decaying. So your RPM will get higher and higher everytime you press the button. Mapper's suggestion is the correct way this scenario should be handled, but as I mentioned there is a new delay function coming for DI's so you soon wont even need to mess around with a timer and virtual aux. Basically, if you do even a short press on the winch button the DI delay off will hold it on for say 10 seconds longer.

Can you save one of those triggerscope captures and attach here. Im just about to go out now so wont be able to help much more until later in the day.

Are you getting valid RPM and no trigger errors now when cranking?

Try this:

No those inputs are not cam or wideband. They appear to be some hack to control idle but I dont know what they are connected to.

Can you try to give us a photo of the CAS wheel inside the distributor (i dont even know if it is visible), the trigger pattern in your triggerscope above doesnt match the normal MX5 NA/BP pattern. These normally have 4 trig 1 teeth for every 2 trig 2 teeth, but yours seems to have 4 trig 1 teeth for every 1 trig 2 teeth. Normal BP pattern is shown on the bottom of the pic below where it says "NA". Is it possible someone has cut one of the trigger 2 teeth off your CAS? I think we should still be able to make it work, I just want to confirm how many teeth you have on each wheel before making a suggestion.

You need to hit the enter key after you manually type in the new offset, you should see the text turn blue if you have done it right.

yep

I didnt look at your .xml yet, but attached is one that realdash done for me to try. This is for the pre-configured "Generic Dash 2" (same as Dash2pro) stream sent on ID1000. If this works then you can compare how it is formatted compared to yours. link_ecu_short.xml

Try it first and let us know if it doesnt work as is. Typically for a load related idle up you dont want a hold/decay as if the load gets activated again while it is still decaying from the last activation then the offsets accumulate and you end up pushing the idle higher and higher so the closed loop system will get integral wind up trying to pull it back to target. There is a new feature coming out soon (I think it is in the next release) which adds a delay on and delay off timer to digital inputs and aux outputs, so I suspect that will take care of it turning on/off too often.

If you have 4 wheel speeds, then you dont even need the gearbox speed sensor. You can disconnect that. In your speedo out settings set the source to non driven wheel speed. Then in the chassis and body>speed sources menu make sure you have a non driven wheel speed source assigned.

Huh? You've lost me... So have you got 4 individual wheels speeds connected and a seperate gearbox sensor too? Or just 2 front wheels and the gear box sensor for the rear?

Under Idle actuator settings there is a GP Idle source, setting this to your winch DI will enable an offset to the idle valve position and an offset to the idle target if in closed loop. If you want to take care of battery voltage you can make your main target and base position tables 3D with batt volatge on the Y axis.