Adamw

First, is the speed reading correct in PC Link? Once you have that right it should just be a matter of adjusting the mulitplier on the aux output to get them to match.

You dont need to set up any input, you just need to assign which wheel/wheels you want to use for driven and non driven in the speed sources menu. For a FWD road car the best choice for driven is probably "Max Front speed", and for non driven "Average rear speed".

please attach a log of it cranking. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_P1LRANeO4A

Yes with a small mod it will be capable of CAN transmit for a dash or similar. The G4 has no CAN receive. The modification is free of charge except for shipping back to you (you need to send to NZ for the mod). The Jag V12 is a fairly simple engine with distributor etc so I dont think you would need a specific base map, use the Xtreme example map and change the injection mode to multipoint group, ignition mode to distributor or twin distributor (from memory some had a single coil, some had 2 coils?) and set trigger mode to 1 tooth/TDC and it wont be far off running.

Yeah that would be ok, just the two trigger signals shielded and the power and ground unshielded. Personally if it were me I would do 4 core shielded so all wires are in the one bundle. Assuming you're in Aus, GR Motosport will sell you a short length of 4core screened tefzel for bugger all.

No it doesnt appear to be CLL related.

In general I think it probably wants a bit more accel enrichment all over but if if drives ok without any flatspots or hesitation then i wouldnt worry about the general low load cruising stuff that your first pic shows.. The lean spike in your second pic at the 9:23 mark I would be more concerned about since it is at WOT and peak torque RPM so it is going to be pretty prone to knock around that area. Its hard to tell if it really is lean there or if it is something like a misfire that makes the probe read lean? On the short burst you gave it just prior to this one (~9:21) it didnt go anywhere near as lean. The main difference I can see from a fueling perspective was due to it being from lower RPM so got more accel enrichment. So you could try adding a bit more accel enrichment above 4000 to see if it has any influence. Generally you dont need much above 4000, but it depends on injectors etc.

So a G4X or G4+? The G4+ is pretty limited in the range of "analog inputs" that it can receive over CAN, list below. The G4+ CAN digital inputs from switch type inputs are more flexible and you can use them in most cases just like a wired input. The G4X can pretty much receive any input over CAN.

Sorry. I see what you mean now. So what do you want to do with it? Rotary pots or switches? What do you want to control in the ECU?

It will work if there is a PDM/PMU on the bus too, but not keypad alone.

Are you looking at a pc log or ecu log? Maybe you didn’t log it?

Did you actually read this thread that you are posting in? You have the same problem as the very first post. You are looking at the raw DI3 channel, you should be using the channel that is just called “LF Wheel Speed”, without the DI3 on the end of it.

I’m not sure how that is relevant to the ecu. The only thing the ecu can do to affect coolant temp is turn the fan on or off. Obviously at 120kmh the fan is not going to make any difference.

If you go to >options>units>options, is either metric or imperial speed set to mph? If so and you still arent getting MPH can you attach a screenshot so I can see what you are doing.

Are you checking the revision number on the bottom "Adapter board" as per pic below. The top board may maybe V1.5 which is current, I think the bottom boards are up to V1.8 now

If your engine temperature climbs with road speed then it would suggest your cooling system is inadequate.

Mario, Sorry I just found I had a facebook message from you hiding in my message requests on a similar subject, I thought is was easiest to reply here. I had a quick look at your log. Im not really sure on the cause of the rich warmup but the fuel charge cooling coefficient has quite a big effect as ethanol content goes up so that would be my first suspicion. Its definately weird to have such large VE numbers at idle (I know you have tried to find the cause before and couldnt) so that may tend to exaggerate some of the background calculations such as the fuel charge cooling effect. Probably the quick fix is to turn on a 4D fuel table and pull some fuel out at low temps, something like below.

The offset can be anything between -360 and +360

Hit the U key on your keyboard

The response from your lambda sensor is very slow, it takes over 5 seconds for the lambda to reach minimum after the minimum fuel trim is applied. So this oscilation is caused by having the control rate much faster than the system response time. 5 seconds is pretty extreme, usually it is more like 0.5-1.0 second at idle so it may indicate there is a physical set up issue such as the sensor too far down the system or it may be a controller or sensor issue. So firstly drop the CLL rate down to its minimum (1Hz), if there is still oscillation after that then you will have to reduce the gains too.

Im not sure I understand why you would want over-run fuel cut and downshift blip together? Typically over-run fuel cut is only used to acheive a very small increase in fuel economy. If you use downshift blip you will wreck any chance of good fuel economy because you have to dump a big load of extra transient fuel in for every down shift. If you want good downshift blip then you dont want the extra delay in torque recovery that a fuel cut will cause. So most people would consider these two functions mutually exclusive or contradicting to each other. So what Im saying is we can consider adding the ability to temporarily disable over-run fuel cut to achieve a downshift blip in G4X, if there was a good logical reason to but I dont quite see what is the objective you are trying to achieve. Doing so will likely give poor downshift blip response and poor fuel ecomony so it kind of wrecks both functions. Surely if you have a activation delay of 0.5 or 1.0 for over-run fuel cut it will allow enough time for a downshift?

Yes, provided you have a WRX9+ ecu revision 1.7 or later you will have DI10 available of pin A3.

Are you sure you were using the right config file before? Because I already had the CAN output set up correctly in the config I attached above.

If the valve doesnt move when you turn ign on/off either the valve or the wiring is faulty. So if you want proper idle control you will need to fix that.

It will need to be a bit more sophisticated than your picture above but the control system you describe is what some higher end systems call phase/anti-phase wastegate control. In theory if you put the time in to linearise the system properly then yes you could potentially get a wide range pressure control that was more linear than a 4 port or two 3 ports just plumbed in reverse NO/NC. These higher end systems actually even go a bit further and have deadtime and battery voltage correction curves for the solenoids to get it as linear as possible. However, in practice in the few maps I have seen set up this way from fairly high end WRC cars, the solenoids were just set up to work in exact inverse of each other - i.e. exactly the same as how a single 4 port would do it...