Adamw

Im not sure of pin numbering to be honest, my manual does not make it real clear but I think the loom side would be considered female in Toyotas terminology so the pic below is looking into the terminal side of the connector. In other words it is opposite of what you show. No, the coil negative must definitely be connected to the igniter, that is what the actual igniter switches on/off.

Coil negative.

In this photo here: What are you trying to show here? Is that Pin 1? Pin 1 is the IGF signal which the Link ECU doesnt even use. Can you confirm the important ones; Igniter Pin 2 goes to Ign 1 on the ECU (B57). Pin 3 goes to +12V. Pin 5 goes to coil -ve.

Ok, so you still have a wiring problem somewhere. I notice on your wiring picture above the igniter doesnt have a ground pin/wire, this means it most ground through its body/bolt holes - Do you have it bolted on to a clean ground when testing?

So no spark in test mode, or just no spark when cranking?

The find devices tool is only used for reprogramming link can lambda devices to a different cyl number or baud rate etc. it is not used for 3rd party devices.

I said "Android head unit", not tablet. But a tablet is basically the same - just a head unit is designed to be powered by a car and turns on/off with ignition and has the FM tuner built in, a tablet has none of that. You connect the ECU to the Android USB port with the tuning cable. Read the Realdash thread at the top of the forum.

That diagram is wrong. There should only be one wire from ignitor T1 to ECU pin B57, none of those red wires should be there. For RPM you can look in the runtimes screen (F12), triggers/limits tab and you should see about 200-250RPM when cranking if you have the trigger settings correct. Also check Engine kill is off at the bottom.

Is it an old Red xtreme? The Black Xtremes have two CAN ports, one is the round plug, CAN 2 is on the B connector. But if you want to keep it all on the same bus then my suggestion would be as follows... Turn off the termination resitor in the dash software. Splice 2 new CAN wires in to the connection at the dash, then run these to your CAN Lambda, it can be as long as you like since the Lambda is now the bus end rather than the dash. You will need to add a termination resistor somewhere near the CAN lambda. So effectively it will end up looking like this:

The first step is do you see realistic RPM in the software when cranking 200-250RPM? Can you explain the ignition system better. Are you using just one channel of a 6 channel ignitor to fire a single coil? Those 6 channel 2J ignitors dont like driving much current so I suspect it may not like driving a single coil. Does the coil continuously spark if you set ign 1 into test mode? Can you attach your tune also.

This should be closer. I dont know how the oil pressure switches on the AVLS work, do they send gnd or +12V to the ecu? are they open or closed when oil pressure is ok? I have assumed the oil pressure switches connect 12V to ecu when oil pressure is low. I have st up AVLS to switch on when ECT >70°C, RPM is >4000 and Oil pressure switch is ok. EZ30R-4.1.pclr

Hmm, thats weird there is no wire in A1 or A24, theses are normally the pins that control the main relay. The main relay wiring must be changed - unless perhaps the NA cars done it differently? FYI, I think that means "ECU hold power" wont work in this car, so make sure you set the idle valve to reset at key on and you will need to wait a couple of seconds after turning on the key before cranking.

The crank sensor is wired incorrect polarity, swap the +/- wires on it and your drift should be fixed. The cam sensor is ok as is.

Ok give this a try. I have set it up so it should activate whenever you go above 5000RPM and 60%TP. It will turn off 1sec after revs fall below 5000, the the idea with this is set up is it will generally only activate during a high RPM gear shift and not when you are trying to just drive around gently. My settings may be a mile off as every engine is very different and I dont really know how much you lift off the throttle when doing a hard gear shift. So, take it easy when you first try it to see how it goes - you may get very little effect, you may get a lot. Depending on how effective it is be aware you may have less vacuum for the brake booster so keep that in your mind when testing. Make sure you PC Log it and we will tweak from there. michael gtr tune1-1 with ALS.pclr

Ok, you will have to grind off 3 of those teeth from the top wheel in the distributor, so there is only 1 left. It doesnt matter which one. If you want to use the idle valve then it will be best to connect the MAP sensor to the manifold also. If you are not going to use the idle valve then you can leave the MAP disconnected. I have made some changes to your map to get it closer. This is set up for no MAP sensor. You will have to find the trigger offset on your own using a timing light. AE86test Adams changes.pclr

Ace. Looks like the PID might still need a bit of work. Why is the RPM so "lumpy", is it a fairly serious engine or is it just running like crap due to not being tuned yet?

The CAN bus itself can actually be very long, but the length restriction comes from the "stub length" or "spur length", which is quoted in many standards to be 300mm max. In your case you now have the ECU at one end of the bus and the dash at the other end so effectively if you connect the Lambda in between it will be considered a stub. Something like below However as a general comment the Link stuff seems to be fairly error tolerant and I think most of those standards are very conservative, I have never had any drama with longer stubs so Im pretty sure you would get away with the "double adapter" and a 1.0 or 1.5m stub as you planned. I just cant guarantee it as I usually try to follow the rules so dont have enough experience at breaking the rules... Having said that, many competing ECU brands now sell the "CAN hubs" which break most of the CAN rules but still seem to work. What ECU do you have, does it have a 2nd CAN port? Do you have any ability to do some basic custom wiring (like crimp tools to crimp a plug onto some wires) or have any contacts that can? Where abouts are you in NZ? I will make a suggestion on some other options based on the answers to these questions.

Does your distributor wheel have 4 teeth on the bottom wheel or 24 teeth? How many teeth on the top wheel? Do you have a Monsoon or Atom? Do you have a MAP sensor connected to the manifold or no? What size are the injectors?

Can you give us a trigger scope with cam at zero and another with the cam advanced enough to cause the timing change.

Do you see realistic RPM in the software when you are cranking it? Should be around 200-250rpm.. >Options>TPS setup. Follow instructions on screen.

Yes pin 16 is AN Volt 11 so that should be fine. If it is messing with your coolant temp then something is wrong with your wiring.

The plugs are pretty fussy on those cars, it might pay to unplug it again and replug making sure it is square and fully home all around. If that doesnt help then the next step is to confirm the following: With ECU plugged in, backprobing the following pins; Pin A33 should have +12V full time. Pin A1 & A24 should have +12V when ign switch is on.

You will possibly need to adjust it once just to allow for the range of airflow increase/decrease the idle valve can cover but once it is set you should never need to touch it again. The usual procedure is with the idle valve unplugged/disconnected/blocked you want to adjust the throttle stop so that at normal operating temperature the engine can only just/barely idle.

Yes we will definitely be increasing the range of plug-ins. There are some others in progress. Of those you mention the Subaru would probably be one of the highest up the list. The Evo X has some challenges which need more investigation but I hope we will be able to do something for it. The Honda will have to wait until we have a new GDI ecu.

You can measure its resistance with a multimeter will give you a pretty good idea. Most Euro and japanese cars use the Bosch curve which will give about 2500Ohms when measured at 20°C (~room temp). Most american cars use the Delphi curve which is about 3300ohms at room temp. There's a few less common specials found on some such as honda and ford but measuring resistance is a good place to start.