Adamw

Extending from Vaughan's info, the test calculate is your friend for working this out, often easier to do it by trial and error rather than trying to do the math in your head. Here is your "2380" value with D=1, M=1, O=0, it will be logged/displayed as -762.0: Now with M=10, O=10000 we have something that looks right: To confirm works correctly over the full range, now we try "0" CAN data, if we get a matching 0 in PC link then we are good:

I’m not at a pc right now but you will find it in the help file. From memory something like >wiring>inputs >triggers>specific triggers > Link cas

You need to post the actual log and tune as there is very little info available from a single screenshot. Having said that I think you answered your own question, any engine is going to feel like a turd with 0.7 or 0.8 lambda at cruise, this is where the tuning term "fat" comes from. s it VVT? What are the cams doing? Have you confirmed base timing and no timing drift with RPM?

There may be several advantages from changing to multi coil: You have a much wider range of modern coils with a decent/matching ignitor built in and some are very powerful and well proven. You have 4 x more time per engine cycle for dwell, spark time and cooling of the coil You have no lost energy from leads, resistance through cap and rotor etc. You can do individual cylinder ign trims. Having said that a properly designed single coil system on a 4 cyl can work pretty well up to moderate RPM. Your tacho is most likely a "high level" tacho so after changing to multi coil you will need an aux output to drive the tacho and you may also either need to modify the tacho to low level or use a tacho booster to get the high voltage signal required. The Monsoon would generally cover a G3 pretty well, it has 2 less aux outputs, but are you using all 8? It has 2 extra Inj drives, 2 extra DI's, , 1 extra analog, you can also add more via CAN bus. The ecu in your picture is the old blue storm, it was replaced by the Black storm and the Monsoon around 2014/2015? It pretty much has the same IO as the current Monsoon but had knock control.

I discussed this with Engineering the other day, the way the value is stored and used in the ecu has changed to make it more flexible so this is intended behavior and is just something I didnt come across until now. Hopefully when the test calculator and help file is updated that will make it more clear. This applies to all parameters that arent scaled 1:1 such as wheel speeds, the received data now needs to be scaled to make it match the final display value/units when received.

You will need to use an image host for pictures, and for sharing files use something like onedrive/google drive etc. As with any forum, the Forum host charge a lot of money for storage space so each user only gets a smallish allowance. There is no way to delete old attachments. For images I use a software called sharex which allows me to take screenshots or video, upload an image and get a hostlink in a single click, but an easy option if you havent done it before would something like https://postimages.org/

The knock pins are dedicated inputs so you dont need to assign them, just turn it on in the knock control settings. I would suggest you just leave it off for now until it is running. Are these numbers you are talking here raw voltage? If so I suspect it will be the "error low" setting on the analog input, set it to 0.0V and it should then not go into error condition. Send me your ecu serial number, [email protected] and I look into it for you.

I like your simulator, we have a project in house at the moment doing something vaguely similar. Removing weight is definitely overlooked so often, it is far more important than engine performance in most cases. Fibreglass doors and hatch are possibly out of budget but are often the biggest bang for buck weight reduction in a car like this (loss of 60-80kg common), but they often dont fit as nice and seal shut etc so there are some negatives for a car that may be road driven often too.

Im not sure I would recommend changing this as it is likely to open a big can of worms with backfeeds etc. How is leaving the fan running going to cool the engine? - or do they have an electric water pump too?

Im normally happy if the error accumulator stays below about 10 counts during heavy on/off throttle use, so yours looks ok I think.

I agree a properly terminated bus should be 50-60ohm, but from the testing you have done it is now sounding more like something has died in the ecu. Please make yourself confident it is then contact tech support if it needs to come back for repair.

First, clear the fault codes and see if they come back, these may just be historic codes. Hit "E" on the keyboard then hit clear fault codes. If 74 comes back that one suggests a wiring issue for sure as that means the 5V supply isnt at 5V. To check, hit F12 key to bring up the runtimes screen and go to the "ECU Status" tab, check the reported voltage on the 5V out runtime as shown below, it should be within about +/-0.02V of 5.00. The most common cause of a 5V error is a sensor pinned wrong, so the first thing to do is un-plug all the sensors and check if the 5V comes back to 5V.

I guess it depends on how much you are injecting, but I wouldnt expect it to have a large impact. The charge temp is just a blend of water temp and air temp, usually at high load/RPM it will be biased more towards air temp and I doubt there will be enough methanol that the water temp will drop so it should remain a fairly realistic approximation of charge temp.

Both the cam and crank sensors are wired incorrect polarity. You need to swap the +/- wires at the sensor. I suspect once you do that the offset may change back to something more normal.

The sweep will work regardless of whether the VSS working or not. A different test you can do to test the speedo is you can just set that aux output to "Test PWM" mode and try different frequencies, anything from 50-500Hz I should do something.

Youve got to hit enter after typing in the -155, you should see the number turn blue. For the trigger scope you've got to click the capture button while the engine is cranking. Here is a quick video: https://1drv.ms/v/s!AiYbYlZQuRHPmidU5V2CmTcv6t2y?e=7Suvzr The RPM looks a bit unstable in the log so it would be good to see a triggerscope next.

10Hz minimum PWM frequency on the V88. It may work. Also, many of these types of alternators will also work fine without anything connected.

You can check the output with an LED testlight, connect between the aux and ground, it will flash from slow to fast then back to slow during the key on sweep. The tacho could potentially be a high level type as Vaughan suggests, I know some of the basic SR20 distributor nissans such as primeras etc had a high level tacho but didnt expect it in a S13.

At least one of the black grounds will definitely need to be grounded, these are the main power grounds. The green grounds are for sensors only Yes, the one with the red o-ring is the usb tuning port. Go to windows device manager and make sure there is a link USB ECU showing up in device manager and there are no exclamation marks or similar warnings/errors showing next to it. Note it is Anzac day holiday here in NZ but I can give you a hand on teamviewer if you need it later today. PM me on this forum if you need to.

Do you want to keep it electronic throttle or changing to cable? Boosted or NA?

From your description it sounds like the timing is possibly 360 deg out, firing on exhaust stroke instead of compression. The 205 offset you have set is the normal offset for a 1J VVT but try your offset at -155 and let us know if that sounds any more promising. If that doesn't help then please do a triggerscope of it cranking and a short log of it cranking.

What’s the resistance between can H&L with everything connected? Possibly you have 3 termination resistors if you are connected to a factory bus. Also, as a test could you move the ecu CAN connection to CAN 1?

Correct, use the 1JZ VVTi trigger mode, offset is usually around 205 from memory

Im not sure why closed loop idle is still working when RPM is above the lockout, but I think it is because idle conditions were still meet prior to RPM increasing. Im sure under real life conditions (ie, when you do a blip from above normal idle conditions) it will work fine. Not really related to gear shift, but I have changed your E-throttle target table and idle base position table in the attached file as it will work better like this - the general idea is you want most throttle opening to come from the E-throttle target and only a small trim for temperature changes in the idle base position table. Also as I mentioned earlier you dont want zeros in your E-throttle target table as you will break the motor gears quickly due to undershoot. If you jack the drive wheels up off the ground you will be able to test downshift blip better. 1539258059_newmods-EThrottle idle and target changed.pclr

You can do it by fudging the firing order but it is nicer to re-wire the injectors and ignition so that the firing order in the software is set correctly. Otherwise features such as individual cylinder fuel trims (common on the RB rear cylinders) and knock control will be difficult to understand. Here are the main differences: