Adamw

Might need a bit more info, what ECU, what car, what engine. What changed between them working and not working?

You will need to connect your own ODB2 socket to the CAN1 port on the ECU. The Factory OBD2 socket isnt even connected to the ECU CAN bus.

It doesnt look much different from yesterday to be honest, but really, I think you will find it quite acceptable as is. I probably wouldnt mess with it any more unless you can feel it when it is running.

Of course if traction is locked out then all traction functionality is disabled. As soon as your lockout conditions are met the traction status will say ready and your table will switch.

I would suggest you get someone to connect audio knock detection to the engine to confirm if there is any knock and calibrate the knock control system to match the new engine. There are many factors that will affect how much mechanical noise the engine makes and its knock signature so you need to calibrate the knock system so that it only indicates knock when there really is knock. Piston to bore clearance, drivetrain backlash etc will all vary significantly engine to engine. In fact even seemingly unrelated factors can have a big influence, there is an article in one of the Motec manuals where the best knock detection frequency for a mitsubishi evo changed from 5KHz to 6KHz just from fitting a rollcage and different exhaust system...

Hi Mate, It seems to be set up correctly to me and appears to work correctly and switch the TC table when I generate a CAN signal that emulates what I expect the keypad to be sending. Here is a quick video showing me testing: https://1drv.ms/u/s!AiYbYlZQuRHPsHxSiejfbxtxaDgJ?e=CyFFHG

Yeah, looks much more like it now. There is a faint bit of oscillation in your log which you may find can be improved by dropping the P to 7. Now I suggest you set the top row of your E-throttle target table to whatever value it needs to idle, often around 3-6%. Then set your idle control mode to open loop E-throttle and zero out the idle base position table as well as all fan step,park step, ac step, start up step, fan, power steer etc before starting and tuning idle from there..

The Silver G4 had E-throttle driver built-in, the red G4 didnt and will need the external module. We sell a new version of that module now: https://dealers.linkecu.com/G4RET

Can you attach the scopes from the G4+ and logs of the G4X trigger error.

You have TP error counting up when you're at 100% and you have some TP/target errors as well. The TP error is because your TPS's aren't calibrated correctly, when the Main shows 100% the sub only shows 96%, so that needs to be fixed. The TP/Target error is likely your PID, so fix the frequency problem below first and retune the PID before worrying about this. Normally I would not want to see error counters going much above 5. The frequency is set on Aux 9, yours is currently set to 115Hz so that is not suitable, it should really be 500Hz min. Once you change that you will need to re-tune the throttle control and I would expect your PID to then be something more normal like I suggested on your facebook post.

Attach your tune as it is now after the changes. Which table switching are you talking about (boost or TC?) and which button is it assigned to in the dash keypad. Is the dash set to transmit bits, bytes or words mode?

The numbers arent directly related to voltage as it is passed through various filters first, then only sampled during a small crank angle (knock window) before being processed into a "knock level". The voltage at the actual pin will be much higher than the processed signal that the knock level number is derived from. BTW, I deleted your post with the same question from the G4X forum.

Ok, I have turned the pull-up on and reversed the logic for the oil pressure switches. New file attached. EZ30R-4.2.pclr

You've got Receive user stream 2 set up on ID 1501 which looks like the standard Toucan setup with all 8 DI's coming in. Then youve got receive User stream 3 set up on ID 1857 with some of the same DI's repeated and the traction disable. Where did you get the info to set up this Stream 3 as it looks wrong in many ways? I cant even access the JT innovations website tonight to check if there is a manual or software I can look at. On your Toucan, what CALS/DI's are used for what? Edit, added later: Finally got through to his website. I see now the "keypad" is new functionality that has been added to the dash. Some of your problem is the "cal buttons" on the dash are using the same CAN DI's as the keypad buttons so they will overwrite each other. The rest of the problem is stream 3 is just set up wrong. Can you tell me which Keypad buttons and which "cal numbers" you have set up in the dash to do what.

Oh ok now I get it. I would have called this the coil sub harness. A is the main power ground (ground to cyl head) E is ECU sensor ground. H is +12V supply. The rest are the trigger signals.

Do you have a photo? If I google "L98 coil" all results show just the common 4 pin LS2 coil

I expect it is probably just a "high level" tacho. Was the tacho originally connected to the ignition coil or igniter?

The CAN lambda uses the Bosch factory calibration resistor which is inside the connector, no need for any calibration.

Yes I would say provided the air and water temp sensors are actually plugged in then those 3 errors together would suggest there is possibly a broken sensor ground path. The ground to these 3 sensors is a brown with black strip wire, they go to a splice point at E27 & E28, then eventually back to ECU pin B65. So check there is continuity from the ground wire on these 3 sensors back to B65.

Error 24 means the sensor pump current is outside of the expected range. It would most likely be caused by either a bad connection on the sensor side of the CAN lambda or a failing sensor. I would probably replace the sensor as the first step.

The story goes many years ago we were supplied the alternative sensors by mistake, upon testing the engineers found they actually gave a better signal to noise ratio than the Bosch equivalent so we have used them ever since. I dont think the absolute torque is particularly critical when not connected to an OEM ecu. The factory service manual will typically quote a specifc torque value because the factory ecu cant/wont be calibrated by the mechanic replacing a sensor so they need to minimise the variables so that a replacement in the future works similar. So the actual torque value you choose is not so critical, but keep a record of the actual torque you use during initial fitting then if you ever need to unbolt it for some reason you can refit it using the same torque as it had when calibrated/tuned.

I know how the solenoids work. My question is how are the oil pressure switches wired and how do they work(DI7 & 8). Are they open circuit with high pressure or low? Is the other side of the switch connected to ground or to +12V?

Check the runtime parameter "Lambda 1 Status" and Lambda 1 Error, that will give us some clues to the problem.

Fuel table is MGP, Ign is MAP so this is fine. I dont see anything obviously wrong in the tune but as confused says you really need a log to get to the bottom of it. That should be the first thing to do when it is running. You tune file shows the logging memory is 35% used so that indicates there is a log currently saved in the ecu. It probably wont have all the correct parameters logged but it may offer some clues, you should download that and attach here.

Correct. If you dont take it above 5000 and 60% TP the antilag will not activate at all.