Adamw

The 4AGE is not what we would refer to as VVT, the 2 state on/off type cam control like 4AGE, honda Vtec and nissan VTC is called "switched cam" in Link speak. So yes the Atom can do a switched cam ok.

Can you give us a screenshot of the device manager so I can see what it is showing there, it looks ok in your other pic. Does the car run or is it a new install?

They dont make a OBD version as far as I know. There is the full SLM which has configurable colours/brightness/functions, then there is the SLM-C which is the more basic version with much less flexability. Both are generic CAN, not OBD2. Attached is a basic setup for the full version. The first 6 LED's are used for shift lights coming on at different RPM's (set RPM for each using virtual aux 1-3). The last two LED's are set up as warnings, in this example it will flash CE light codes or come on solid if boost goes above 280kpa or water temp goes above 105C (set in virtual aux 4). The colours and brightness can only be changed by changing the multiplier and offset in the CAN setup. In this example I have them set to 80% brightness which might be a bit high for night driving. Motec SLM Example.pclr

Yep your file share works. This is a weird issue, it appears like the sensor controller resets. Just as a test can you try temporarily changing the lambda setting "run when stalled" to yes and do another run to see if it still freaks out at high rpm. Where does the 12V wire to the lambda sensor come from? Can you try connecting that to somewhere different (even if it is just a temporary alligator clip test lead to battery or something)

So does this car have a distributor? If so, trigger 1 and trigger 2 signals come from two sensors inside the distributor. The 24 tooth wheel is trigger 1 and trigger 2 would have a single tooth. What ecu do you have? edit: just noticed the title says supralink. Assuming it is a g4+, can you do a trigger scope. how to do it: https://1drv.ms/v/s!AiYbYlZQuRHPmieMTkwQDCXEb2LY

You might have to share the log via google drive/onedrive or similar. Im not sure what error 2 means but would like to see what the temperature etc is doing before that error appears.

Since you have an expansion loom, that will be the easiest option. Connect one pin to AN Temp 2 or 3, the other pin to sensor ground.

It looks like it is mostly working. Lambda will be no use being so close to the end of the exhaust. You wont be able to tune fuel at all until youve got an exhaust fitted and you can get the engine warm. Have you done base timing?

I dont think you will find a map that specific but it is not difficult to set up a basic start map that will get it running. Once you have a bit more of the detail - sensors, injectors, ignition system etc I can help you put something together. The only user that I can think of that may have a slight chance of having something more specific for one of those would be @integrale8v, I havent seen him around here for a while though. in

Yes that cap will be fine. Any ceramic or tantalum (maybe easier to find in 1uF), 20/30/50V will do it.

You may get slightly lower speed range if you tap into the onditioned signal that comes out of the ABS unit. However I suspect even the OEM ABS doesnot work below about 10kmh. In your log it looks like the wheel speeds are reliable down to about 20kmh, do you really need traction control to work at that speed? Usually you would set the speed lockout above 25kmh as TC is not much use at low speeds where you need very high slip. You can find conditioned wheel speeds here:

The 0-1V signal is usually a simulated narrowband signal. Im pretty sure they have a 0-5V wideband output wire as well which would be the better option. The ECU can do a calibrated speedo output. You will need a speed input from a VSS. The output to the speedo will need a small circuit to make it compatible with the nissan speedo which expects an AC signal. You will need to assign all the inputs and outputs to match your wiring. Apart from those and the trigger offset you will likely also need to adjust the master fuel number to get it to run decent also.

If it runs when wired in wasted spark but doesnt run when wired in direct spark then that would indicate your trigger offset is wrong - You are firing on the exhaust stroke rather than compression stroke. You can add or subtract 360deg from your trigger offset.

Reluctor sensors will not work down to 0MPH, they will stop working at low speeds when the voltage output is less than about 1V. DI11 is not connected on the Supra ECU.

Ok, I dont see much else wrong. In the log you can see the E-throttle motor output go all the way from -90% to +70% DC with no movement so I would be checking wiring next. Is your throttle wired like this?: If you touch battery power on to the motor pins does the throttle blade move?

As far as I remember a virtual aux is not acceptable for e-throttle relay as it is designed to be a mandatory safety feature. It will only take you 10seconds to turn off the virtual aux and set one of your spare auxes to e-throttle relay to test so I suggest you just try. Although it will work without a physical relay wired, it would be strongly recommended to fit one.

As far as I remember the E-throttle relay wont work on a virtual aux. Can you move it to one of the spare auxes and try again.

Ok, thats a good start. Now do us a PC Log of you trying to do the the TP calibration. Attach the log and your tune.

Yes, of course the Duty cycle table is used, the frequency will be fixed. Can you explain what how you want it to work. When WMI is active you want to change to fuel table 2? When WMI is active but the failsafe signal is present what do you want to do? When WMI is not active but failsafe signal is present what do you want to do? Can you tell me the voltage on the fail safe wire under these three scenarios: WMI system armed, failsafe/water level etc ok. WMI system armed, failsafe/water level in alarm condition. WMI system off.

What car is it off? There is a common 74mm one but I dont remember a 76mm. If you move the throttle blade by hand do you see the voltage for TP sub and main change in the runtimes screen?

The basic fundamentals to make a limiter smoother or "softer": Reduce start cut. Make sure end cut is 100% or close to it. Increase limit control range. Increase Limit ignition trim (more negative). Exit decay rate can have quite an effect on how it feels as well, I normally like it up around 40%.

Yep, the G4 is not as flexible as the G4+ in this regard but there are still a few ways to do it. Heres how I would do it; Set a virtual aux to "Fuel pump", we will use this to generate the "on" signal for prime and also turn off the pump when eng has stopped. Set Aux 1 or 2 to GP PWM, set the activation condition to Virtual Aux 1. Set the frequency and DC table up however you want. I suggest Inj DC as one of the table axis as this is directly related to how much pump you need. Example below would give 20% pump speed at idle, ramping up to 60% under cruise condititons, then 100% from there.

Your aux 1 is set up correctly. You want constant frequency for a solenoid. Im not sure what frequency is suitable for the aquamist solenoid but 30Hz sounds like the ball park I would expect. What DI is your failsafe connected to?

You can have three completely seperate boost tables, or 2 interpolated. So for instance you could have one table that is active for 1st-3rd gears, one for 4th and 1 for 5th. If only 4th gear is the concern then you could just switch to a second boost table whenever 4th gear is engaged which has lower DC or boost target in it. If you want different boost in each gear, then another option is to have two boost tables in interpolate mode. One high boost table, one lower boost. Then use gear position to blend between those two tables.