Adamw

To give a little more info. The OEM functionality uses "CAN2". The round 6 pin port (without red oring) that is next to the USB tuning port on the side of the case is CAN1, you can use this for connecting any accessories. There are set up instructions for the AEM Xseries in the help file.

It should work with the same set up as the S6 as it is effectively same tooth count etc. But here is the S4 & 5 setup notes from the help file:

Yes it should be repairable. Contact [email protected] to arrange. The component that is fried there is the flyback diode for the idle valve, so that may explain the low idle but I dont think it could cause it to stay on. It may suggest there is a problem with the wiring somewhere. I will let tech support advise on that once they have inspected what is damaged.

No. DI1 is your switch, this item can have an on or off status. Virtual aux 1 also has an on or off status, it will be on when the fan temperature/hysteresis conditions are met and off at all other times. Aux 1 is the output that controls the fan. So we tell Aux 1 (the fan) to turn on if DI1 is on OR if virtual aux 1 is on.

Please attach your log along with your tune, it could almost be anything.

Windows 7 should work ok. I believe in XP it is the 3D surface view that doesnt work so you may have success if you delete all 3d surface views from your layout. I dont have a PC with XP anymore to try.

It would be most common just to wire a switch to ground the relay trigger (independant of ecu), however if you want to do it in the ecu, then you can wire your switch to a DI and set it up like below. This example would is assuming the Fan relay is connected to Aux 1 and the override switch is connected to DI1.

I mean change the trigger offset in the software. The largest number it will accept is 360 and the smallest number that it will accept is -360, so this is why I say "add or subtract 360" as it will only allow you to go one way depending on your existing number. In this example below my existing trigger offset is 97, I cant add 360 to that as it will be too big to be accepted so I must subtract. New offset = 97-360 = -263

I didnt check your math but your graph appears to match my understanding. However, for most people with an injector this small the short PW adder is irelevant as you will never command a PW that short. On a typical car size engine you would never be below about 2ms with an injector this small. I typically dont bother with SPWA until im over about 1200cc injectors.

It should be ok, the aux drives are good for about 2A. I would not parallel 2 auxes as that could mess with some of the overcurrent safety and diagnostics of the chipset.

Turn off overrun fuel cut.

Yep that will do.

Steve, what do you mean by "wont run the software"? What do you have for a laptop? Is it crashing or something else? I have tried it on my piss weak dell venue tablet with Atom processor that can barely open a web page and it runs PC link fine.

Yes the Mini CAN is in the dropdown list but I suspect it wont work in that car, worth a try though. You could also try intergale8v's E87 settings or my E90 "guess" in this thread:

Ok, thats a weird one I havent come accross before. Can you try uninstalling that driver - do it in device manager, right click on it, then choose un-install. If it asks you if you also want to delete the driver then chose yes too. Then try installing these older drivers. Link USB Drivers.zip

In theory yes. Always start with warm-up enrichment table zeroed out. In most cases depending how cold it gets where you are you will still need small numbers at the lefthand end the warm-up enrichment table to account for factors such as the lower vaporisation in the port and most engines want to be a bit richer for smooth warm-up too.

Assuming you have the older IQ3 with the 8 pin Deutsch connector on the back (not the newer street version with 34pin connector that Haltech now sell), then the only way to make that work is with a V-net module. Part number 230-VM-EFIUCAN would be the suggested option.

Modelled fuel mode calculates the air mass via ideal gas law with charge temp being part of that calculation (PV=nRT). The charge temp used in this calculation comes from the charge temp approximation table and is a blend of ECT and IAT. So, as a rough approximation you will see approx 4% change in injected fuel mass for a 10°C change in charge temp.

Those valves do go nearly silent at the correct frequency. Correct frequency is generally 200hz. You need to set the min clamp to about 15% as that is fully closed, below 15% they start to open again. those numbers you quote for cold start aren’t unusual for E85.

It shouldn’t matter, but It would be recommended to use a static dwell of something like 1.5 or 2ms. I would delete both axes of the dwell table to just leave a single value.

An T3 &4 have a fixed 1K pull-up, no need to wire anything, it will work as is. Only An T1&2 have software selectable pull-ups but that feature is usually only needed for special circumstances such as sharing a sensor in a piggyback situation.

You can still do a triggerscope without the ignitor. You originally said you had no fuel and no trigger 2 signal, the ignitor wouldnt affect either of these.

Sounds like it is possibly a hardware issue. I suggest you still email tech support for advise before concluding that however, I have no info on what error 2 relates to. You've tried another sensor already right?

First, make sure you are on the latest firmware, there was a problem with the reluctor settings in an early release. Next can you do a triggerscope of it cranking and attach that and your tune here.

Yes, ignition cut will work correctly. Even if you change to ignition cut it would still be strongly recommended to fix your fuel flow issue. Most injectors will be locked fully open by about 90% DC so wont flow any further fuel above above that. Your already beyond that quite a bit so it is very dangerous, there is no reserve if for instance you get a small boost spike or something that requires more fuel.