Adamw

Sorry it should be set to 12, I must have been half asleep when I wrote that.

The first thing I would try is run a cam angle test on both the LH & RH cams and use the results of that test to confirm/set the offset on DI 1 & 2. Use a test pulse count of 4 for the cam angle test.

With accel enrichment I wouldnt put too weight on what the lambda is doing as it is not always a good indicator of combustion during an extreme transient, still use it as an indicator, but the tuning needs to be done more by "feel". But something doesnt sound right with your description to me, I dont remember needing anything like that much even with large ITB's or slide throttle engines. The sens of 100 isnt too unusual for a large throttle or ITB's (I think I have even been higher than that) but 100-150% clamp is way more fuel than I ever remember needing.. I dont remember seeing much more than a max of around 70% from a quick stab off idle. Typically larger overlap will mean you need less accel enrichment as there will be less vacuum at idle therefore less change in MAP during a blip. What is the MAP at idle and what does it spike to during a blip? Has it got some decapped injectors or long inj extensions or a completely wrong spray pattern or something? Is it a stock kind of injector location? Whats the manifold design like - any chance of something weird like charge robbing etc? Whats injector timing like? Is it direct spark or wasted spark? I dont know confidently myself but from my experience it appears to just work like a multiplier. TPS Delta (or MAP) x Sens

The AEMnet uses a lot of different ID's (for instance 1 whole slot/stream is used up just for oil temp) so that sucks up your 6 CAN slots quickly but you've still got enough room for another device on CAN1. Then another 6 on CAN2.

Yeah I noticed in the -261 log there are a couple of drops to zero RPM. That is a kick back by the sounds of it - that usually means the timing is way too advanced. It might pay to check that ign timing again. Looking at some other info I have around, the E36 plug-in base map has its offset at -328 and info from a s54 and S52 has their offset is around 276, so that -261 just seems a bit weird.

Almost any electronics store should have a 4024, or ebay etc. Over here our local jaycar stores (a bit like radioshack) sell them for like $1.50 each. Search for CD4024. Heres an example: https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Texas-Instruments/CD4024BE?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtdY2G%2BSI3N4a%2FfUmOafsfmk1lx%2BAgrRBY%3D

The AEMnet runs at 500K so I have changed your can speed to match. All devices connected to the same bus must run at the same speed. The ECU master runs at 1Mb/s by default but can be re-programmed to run at 500k, so you will have to do that. It is fairly simple, just download their software and connect with USB. I have attached your tune with the AEMnet stuff done. MAP/MGP may be off by 100kpa. In the AEMnet documentation it says "MAP" is sent as absolute pressure as you would expect, but in the AEMNET gauge documentation it suggests "MAP" reads in gauge pressure. So you will have to try it and see. canbussettingsXX.pclr

So with nothing connected to aux 2, you should see around 12V when it is turned off (ignition on) and 0V when set to test mode? Note Aux 9 on the expansion connector cant be used as an aux, it is for E-throttle only. If you want to use aux 9 as an aux then you need to connect the relay to pin B74 on the main ecu plug (labeled aux 10).

Im pretty sure there is a bug in the latest firmware causing this, I see it on mine as well but it doesnt seem to effect anything. Yeah that will be fine provided the timing light still picks up the spark ok which it sounds like it has. You are correct in that if the timing mark aligns with an offset of -261 then 99 is the other possible correct offset. I dont see anything obviously wrong in your setup. Although your inj PW looks about right at cranking, just as a reality check I would give it a try with the master fuel value doubled and if no different then try it halved - this just covers bases such as injector size being completely different to what you believe or low fuel press etc. Have you confirmed there is fuel pressure? You can also try spraying some WD40 or brakleen or similar into the intake to see if that gives any signs of life. I tried your tune loaded in an ecu on a simulator and all injectors/ign etc is working. Your coils are wired ign1 = cyl 1, ign2 =cyl 2 etc right?

The pre-crank prime is time based so this is influenced injector size. You could start with the values in the base map and remove about 25-50%. The crank enrichment is based on a percentage of the main fuel table so this doesnt usually need changing for injector size. These comments assume your fuel is petrol which is what the base map was set up for. If you are using Ethanol then these settings are out the window and you will need to determine them on your own.

Yes it works with the Atom.

Do you mean the pre-crank prime and crank enrichment settings or injector settings?

Aux 7 & 8 work in tandem if one is set to stepper.

Still hard to understand from the brief responses you are giving. Is the wiring like above or not? If you remove the valve and turn the key on it should quickly wind all the way open and back a bit. If it doesnt you either have a wiring or valve issue. You can attach the tune and I will check the basic settings, but the settings wont affect the key-on reset which is the most basic test to confirm wiring is ok.

Sorry I read your post wrong initially, I read it as clicking when turning ign off. I guess if Aux 5,6 or 8 was still set to ISC stepper it could make aux 7 behave weird, have you turned all those off?

It was introduced around firmware 5.6.6, I suspect you must be on old firmware from that pic.

The JZX100 plugin pinout is in the PC Link help file, is yours done the same?: Aux 5 = pin 20, Aux 6 = pin 22, Aux 7 = pin 21, Aux 8 = pin 23.

You need to calibrate the pump somewhere close first and you will need near normal DI rail pressure before it will run. Stroke and number of lobes is easy to determine by removing the pump and looking/measuring through the hole in the cam cover. Bore dia is normally 9mm on the HDP5 pumps. You can get a rough pump calibration by marking 5, 10 , 20, etc deg marks on the crank pulley and measuring the lobe height through the cam cover with the crank sitting on those marks. I dont sorry, most of the DI engines I have been working on are combined DI/Port so they use port injectors for starting.

If the relay is clicking then that would suggest pin 86 still has a connection to 12V (or less somehow). You say it comes from "switched power", but if it really had no power then it couldnt click.

You need to sign in with your username, not email address. I wanted to know which aux is connected to which pin on the stepper. The plug-ins obviously use the factory wiring so it operates as is was designed to be with 12V on the centre taps and ecu low side driving the other 4 pins. Most of the plug in ecus don’t have high side drives at all.

Attach your tune.

Both the MX5 OBD2 and the MX5 VVTi use the same trigger pattern - 4T on crank and 2+1 on the cam. The position of your cam teeth in relation to the crank teeth are retarded (shifted to the left of the trigger scope) compared to where Link's internal documentation suggest they normally are on the OBD2 car. I tested it on the bench and I also get trigger errors if I retarded the cam that far. The VVT triggermode on the other hand didnot give me trigger errors when I moved the cam through the range yours is in.

Modified tune attached. It looked like you were using fuel table 2 so since you werent using the 2 maps I copied that to table 1 and turned off the 2nd map to keep it simple. Zetec Turbo.pclr

Can you change to the MX5 VVT trigger mode and see if that works. You will need to check trigger offset again. Your cam pattern is offset quite a way from the expected pattern and it looks like one of the important sync edges may be crossing. The VVT trigger pattern looks pretty much the same except it allows more freedom on the camshaft position.

Link have sold plug-in ECU's for the supra for 10 years or more and I have never had any drama with the stepper on those, so I think it is pretty well proven. Have you got the centre taps connected to 12V or are you running it like a bipolar valve? Which aux do you have connected to which stepper pin? Are you doing key on reset or key off reset? Does the valve drive all the way fully open then back a bit during the reset process?