Adamw

There is a search box at the top of the forum. This is the 4th result I get if I search SR16VE:

90% petrol with a stoich of ~14.7 + 10% meth with a stoich of 6.5 gives you a combined stoich of about 13.9:1. If you are tuned in modelled mode you can just change the stoichiometric ratio setting and it should take care of the change in fuel. If you are tuned in traditional mode then multiply the fuel table by 1.06 (6%) should get you in the ballpark.

If you have an old G4 then you are right, pin 44 is not connected. If you have a G4+ then it is connected to DI8. If you want to do something with the ignition switch then there are 2 spare digital inputs available on the expansion connector that you can connect the neutral switch to. Im still not sure what you are going to do with it however - the starter motor is not controlled by the ECU so even with a neutral switch connected the ECU cant do anything about someone cranking it in gear. You could do an ignition cut or similar to prevent it from starting but I dont know if thats what you want to achieve. You are probably better to wire the starter signal to a relay that is only energised when the neutral switch is closed.

The Xseries gauges have a CAN bus output (labelled AEMNet), I would suggest you connect it to the ECU via CAN rather than mess around chasing analog ground offsets etc. There is a set up guide for the xseries CAN bus in the help file under device specific CAN.

You can load that same map into your storm, it will be converted when you load it, you will then be able to change to direct spark. When you set the triggermode to 1JZ VVTi, the trigger 1 @ 2 settings will be automatically populated with some values that should work for most.

Not usually. A quick test you you can do to make it more obvious if there is fuel is temporarily set the engine capacity to 10000cc, then you will get a good long injector pulse and the spark plugs should get wet quickly. As Neel says it appears the ECU is commanding a spark and inj pulse and all variables look typical. Are you sure there is still +12V at the injector and coils during cranking? I have seen some guys caught before where a relay is wired to an ACC circuit that switches off during cranking. I dont think the battery voltage is a problem - The ECU is ok to a bit below 7V and most coils and injectors will still work down to about that also.

Yep, should work fine without it. The AC VISC is actually connected to ign output 4 but you will notice in the ST205 base map that output is turned off. The power steer and AC idle up will be done with the normal ISC valve.

The GM sensor uses the same calibration as the link sensor so you dont need to change anything. If you are still getting a t2 @ 5V error that means the ecu is not seeing any sensor connected (open circuit). It could be a bad connection or dead sensor. You can confirm the sensor is good with a multimeter, it should measure around 3000-3500ohms at typical room temperature.

That pin is along with several others are connected to a common ground plane in the Link ECU, so all the ECU ground current load should be spread over several pins. Since that one is getting hot it may suggest some of the others are missing or have a bad connection. The main grounds are Pins 6, 15, 34 & 55. I would start by unpluging the ECU and check that all of these pins (in the loom plug) have good continuity/low resistance to engine or battery ground. I guess another possibility is that terminal just had poor contact and the high resistance made it run hot (JPT terminals do occasionally lose spring tension or fret).

Will need to see a log to help. You can share it using Onedrive/Google drive/dropbox etc.

When you had them flow tested did they report back the actual flow numbers? From the settings in your tune and the logged pulse width I get the feeling they may flow more like 800cc...

Ok, based on those scopes I would set your arming thresholds like this (both trig 1 & 2):

Yeah I would think around 100-400Hz would be the ballpark it would be happy.

Can you give me an area in the log to see an example - everywhere I look the voltage seems to match the reported TP. The speed lockout thing seems weird, I see what you mean, it seems to be turning off somewhere around 7.9kmh rather than the 3 that is set in the map you attached - is it possible that setting was different when the log was taken? Last time I tested this function it seemed to work correctly. You could also try changing the speed lockout to driven wheel speed just to see if there is anything odd going on there. The lambda error 4 seems to be caused by a sudden drop in battery voltage (The log shows it dropped from about 14.1V to 11.9V, but potentially it dropped lower and just wasnt captured due to the logging rate). No fans or AC turn on at that point so it would suggest possibly a bad connection? Edit, added this comment later: Looking at the funny drops in battery voltage, that seems to happen in the same areas that the TP starts to play up. I would be suspecting maybe something like a lose ground connection? If there is a lazy main ground connection you could potentially get ground current travelling through the sensor ground instead which could be what we are seeing on the TP sensors...

I suggest you do a PC log with all parameters recorded. This video shows you how to set it up and record it: https://youtu.be/_P1LRANeO4A

This video will help: https://youtu.be/Eo9zBcIkacs Also, not shown in this video, but recently there is a new function added "surface locked to focused table", you will find this by right clicking on a surface view. This allows you to have one surface view that switches to match whatever different text view table you are using - for instance if you use the F/I short cuts to switch between fuel and ignition map.

Pin 66 is just marked as "GND" in the schematic I have. MAP 0V is pin 71 (B136-13) Yep that will be fine. Pin 62 is a 12V signal out to engage the main relay. In the WRX4 ecu this pin is just joined directly to pin 51 (ignition switch), so the ecu has no interaction - the main relay is controlled directly by the ign switch.

November should be the latest. You can see the release dates on this page: https://www.linkecu.com/software-support/pc-link-downloads/pc-link-legacy-software/ Attach another log and I will make some suggestions. The "50-100RPM overshoot" is probably just because there is currently an 80RPM deadband set on the idle speed control. That means it is not going to attempt to adjust throttle if the idle is within 80RPM of target.

Obviously you need a lambda probe for tuning but if you arent doing the tuning then you dont specifically need one (nice to have tho). You would really want a tuner to do this. It may be as simple as a small adjustment to the idle cells and just running it with a richer idle. Or if it is already rich at idle then it may be as complicated as lowering the fuel pressure so the inj PW can then be increased without making it even richer. The whole fuel table would then likely need to be checked/tweaked. That is really just my hunch as most other parameters that affect idle are quite stable in your log and since we dont have anyway to view fuel mixture (no lambda) that would be high up my list of possibilites. It may not be a fuel related problem but that looks most likely to me. If the PW is so low at idle that you are operating in the non-linear region of the injector that usually means either your injectors are just shit, or they are too large for the engine size/fuel type/power goals.

Yes, you may also have to shuffle a couple of wires around to free up the correct inputs and outputs. For the Mivec solenoid you need Aux 1-4, If you dont intend to run E-throttle in the future then you can use Aux 4 on the expansion connector. If you want to keep the capability to do E-throttle in the future then dont use Aux 4 - I would suggest using Aux 2 instead which was originally for the intercooler spray pump. If you still use IC Spray then you can move that wire to one of the spare ignition outputs on the expansion connector. For the Intake cam position sensor you need to use DI1-4. I would suggest DI3 which was the IC Spray switch in some models (not sure if the Evo 6 have IC Spray switch?) Again if you want the IC spray switch still to work you can move that wire to one of the spare DI's on the exp connector.

No, the tuning port is USB only, not RS232/serial. Since the bluetooth device is serial, you will need to connect it to the serial port. Do you mean the LTW CANF connector? They are under like USD$15 from most electronic suppliers.

You really need to do a log to give me some idea what is causing your problem, but there is no launch control or anything set up so it is nothing to do with the transbrake/bump settings. I would say most likely it is the oil pressure safety limiter that you have set up since that that will limit the RPM to 1500/2000 if your oil pressure drops below 20psi at low RPM (probably does at idle).

On one of the XS connectors there is DI5 & 6, connect the "Vout" to either of these. You can also use the ground on the XS connector to ground the flex sensor. You will have to find your own ignition switched +12V source for the power.

You can upload it to Onedrive/Google Drive/drop box or similar and right click on it and choose "share link". Paste the link here.

So did you update since yesterday? Your map attached yesterday shows it is on 5.6.5. I wouldnt bother changing wiring. Can you attach a log.