Adamw

Yes the plex device can transmit EGT out and the Link can receive it and use it for whatever you like.

Only aux 1-8 can do PWM so 7 or 8 may do it. Let me have a play on the bench when I get a minute to see if I can come up with something that will work. Chase me again if you havent heard from me by the end of the week.

Have a look at the realdash post at the top of the G4+ forum, it would probably do most of what you want. You could use a windows tablet or an android head unit which would take care of the tuner side pretty easy.

The triggerscope you attached shows you had Trigger 1 set to optical/hall rather than reluctor when you captured that scope so check that you have now correctly set trigger 1 to reluctor. I have no idea as I have never touched one of these engines before. Since the Holden mode worked then try starting about 275 or -85. You just need to adjust the trigger offset until the timing marks on the pulley line up. If you cant even see the timing marks that adjust in larger steps like 30deg until you can see the mark, then move in smaller increments when it gets closer. Once you have the marks lined up then if it doesnt start you then need to add or subtract 360deg from that value (as there is no way to know if you are sparking at TDC compression or TDC exhaust stroke when checking with a timing light).

Most of your settings look like a decent staring point. I think your master fuel will need to be quite a bit bigger - most stock road car sized injectors you will end up with the master fuel up around 20-25ms. However, that is not you main problem - Im pretty sure those coils dont have ignitors built in so spark may look ok in free air but likely you have very weak spark when in the cylinder under pressure. You will either need to change to coils with built in ignitors or wire in a separate ignitor.

Correct. The most common way to use it is have the "clear I-trim tables" set to ECU power on. This zeros out all those tables at start up so the engine starts and runs on whatever is in the main ignition table. Then only if knock is detected then some areas will be retarded and you will have negative numbers in the i-trim tables. I dont see any reason to ever put positive numbers in those tables. The ECU will never advance back further than zero. Yes, in that particular cylinder when operating in that particular cell it would have 3 deg less advance than the general commanded value. I would start at 6Khz assuming they have a wideband sensor. The default values are irrelevant, it will be different depending on your gain settings and many other factors. You have to build this table to match the noise signature of your engine. HPAcademy have a decent webinar on setting up G4+ knock control and car used for the example in the video is a 350Z so is probably relevant. I think you only need a $20 for 1 month membership to view those webinars.

Not from the ecu serial number but the easiest way is to look at the version number printed on the bottom board where I show in pink below. I think E-throttle capability was introduced about V1.6

Why dont you just leave the factory trigger system in place? It is 36-1 on the crank. Due to the low voltage on the cam sensor the Ford BA trigger mode ignores the cam sensor during cranking and starts up in wasted spark/batch fire so you will potentially get faster start-up using the factory system. You then dont need to mess with anything and I dont see any negative.

You cant just share the TPS signal as the attessa ecu loads the circuit up too much and messes up the TPS signal. One the GTR plug-in ECU's there is an op-amp circuit on board to generate this signal. I cant read your diagram but the relevant signal is the one that connects to pin 56 on the engine ecu. I think you could probably do it with a GP PWM output but it will probably need a pull-up and a small resistor/capacitor filter to smooth it out into a more analog looking signal. Which aux outputs do you have spare?

You need to hit the enter key, you should see the number turn a blue colour when the change is applied. Did you click capture when the engine is turning? The holden trigger mode is pretty similar to what you where using before except it has 4 teeth on the cam - I suspect it run just because the offset must be closer than what you where using before. Because the 4 teeth on the cam shaft it will only start sometimes and other times the timing will be off by 360 deg so you will need to change back to the multitooth/missing mode and do the offset calibration. If you get timing correct but it still wont start then you just need to add or subtract 360deg from your offset.

You have transmit and acknowledge errors on CAN1, this normally means there is no power at the CAN lambda or there is a problem with the CAN wiring. To confirm there is power at the device, when the car is cold you can just turn the ignition on for for a few minutes and feel the outside of the sensor with your hand, it should be noticeably warmer than the other metal parts around it. Maybe you could attach a couple of pics of the CAN wiring too. One with the cover off the back of the CANF plug and maybe one at the Lambda end.

That seems a bit extreme. Are you sure the delay is not just display or logging related? Im not sure if I have the knowledge to answer the rest of your question confidently except that I can say I have used traction control with 40odd teeth abs sensors, with all 4 wheels, on a thunder with instantaneous arrest of wheel slip possible.

Can you attach the tune. Load source BAP or MAP will work provided you are on a recent firmware, eventually you will need to use MAP since it has an idle valve but thats not going to stop it running. A log of it cranking would be useful too. There was a bug in the BAP equation for modelled mode back in firmwares prior to 5.6.3, so I suspect that may be what caused the issue for you. Generally since BAP and MAP are the same at cranking speed it wouldnt usually make any difference.

It will only start if the timing is already close enough. Since you have completely changed the trigger that is unlikely. So you need to set the timing while it is cranking on the starter motor, not running. You can disconnect the coils or pull fuel pump relay out or whatever so it doesnt fire when you are setting timing.

I dont think so, an Xtreme would be a good fit for one of these. Be aware it is not waterproof so it will want to be put in an enclosure or similar.

Nothing obviously wrong in that trigger scope. So it potentially could be something that is only intermittent such as a bad connection or failing sensor. The only bit that is not quite right in your scope is the low voltage on the cam trace sits a bit higher than normal for sometime after the tooth has passed. Notice in the pic below where the yellow cursor is on the green (cam) trace the voltage not at zero, it is up around 0.8V. Although 0.8V is fine if it never changes, if it ever did creep up above 1.0V that would cause a problem. Say if it creeps up with RPM or when there is large electrical loads such as fans running etc... Notice the crank (blue) trace is more normal at about 0.3V. So Im not confident if that is your problem but it is a possibility and something to keep an eye on. You could try doing a trigger scope at say 5000RPM and see if it looks any different. If possible it would also be worth swapping the RH inlet cam sensor with the LH (trigger only uses the RH). Can you also attach a log of a short drive so we can confirm that VVT is not doing anything funny.

You will need to set the base timing using a timing light. Instructions are in the help file: G4+ ECU Tuning Functions > Triggers > Calibrate

Both analog outputs on the LC2 are user programmable, so provided they have never bee adjusted from their defaults then the yellow one is what you want. It can connect to both the gauge and ecu without drama.

It should show active as soon as the RPM and MAP activation conditions have been met in the boost control settings. Wastegate DC table will also need to be non zero.

Set trigger mode to Daihatsu Copen JB-DET. This trigger is capable of sequential so you can also use sequential fuel and direct spark ignition if you wish.

Can you please attach your tune that was saved when you had the CAN lambda set up on CAN 1 and the CAN lambda plugged in to the CAN 1 port.

Normally I would expect 1 crank sensor and 1 cam sensor. Are you saying yours has two separate crank sensors? Wiring info for the common VQ30 crank/cam sensor is in the help file page: Wiring Information > Input Signal Wiring > Trigger Inputs > Specific Trigger Applications > Nissan VQ30

Here's a quick video to give you an example. Gear shift knock.mp4

Most of the modern injected V8's using a factory intake manifold are reasonably well balanced from side to side so dual Lambdas are not necessarily required especially if it is a relatively mild engine. If it is a highly stressed engine then it would be worth considering. Also you dont necessarily need Lambdas fitted permanently - you tuner may just screw his own in while tuning and remove when done. Note if it has a wet exhaust system you cant run lambdas at all. You either have to change to dry exhausts for tuning or use some other method such as a 4 gas analyser.

A temp sensor is just a resistor (think of it as a piece of thin wire), it does not matter which way it is connected.