Adamw

No you do not need the same parameters on the axes and they dont need to span the same ranges or even have the same breakpoints. From memory I think the main fuel and ignition tables cam have a max breakpoint size of 22 x 20, while many of the less critical tables will have a max size of 16 x 11. Trailing split does not generally need a high resolution table as it usually only changes a small amount (if at all) over the full operating range. I often see rotary maps with 12deg in every cell - so no point having aal 176 cells populated all with the same number in them... My general tuning philosophy is to start as simple as possible and only make it more complicated when/if it needs to be. So I will usually start with the bare minimum breakpoints that I think it will need. For the main ign table I will usually do 500RPM increments up to about 5000RPM, then 1000RPM above that. For the MAP breakpoints 20kpa around idle/cruise then 40kpa on boost. If in the process of tuning that ign table I find there is some area where the timing requirements are vastly different cell to cell then I will just add a new column/row at that point only. When you add a new row/column in the Link software it doesnt mess up the rest of your tune like it does with many other ecu's so you only need to tune the newly added row/column. Same idea with your split table - the few turbo engines I have tuned only varied from about 8deg at light loads to 12deg at high loads, so you likely will only need something like a 6x6 table in most cases. NA engines typically just have a flat 10deg all over so will only need one cell. When the engine is running you will have crosshairs on all of your tables showing where in the table the engine is operating, and you can also add "gauges" to your page showing live the commanded ign timing and split that it is pulling from those tables.

Can the dash not interpret compound messages? What dash do you have?

PT CAN is usually one Red wire, one Blue/Red. For the starter button, yes, connect the button to any DI, then an aux to a relay to control the starter solenoid.

If you go to the "legacy" page the release note links for the G4+ are working correctly (https://www.linkecu.com/software-support/pc-link-downloads/pc-link-legacy-software/) Only the last 3 versions have release notes attached though, it was all done in the help file prior to that.

When you go to perform the firmware update it wont let you do it unless you click the button that says "read notes first", this will pop up the release notes in a separate screen. Otherwise they are in the help file: PCLink G4+ Users Manual > Release Notes > ECU Firmware Version Information

Link would need a complete car to test, not just the ecu. Given the low popularity of the model and the complex BEAN communication I suspect it would not be economical for Link to look at reverse engineering a later model when there is little demand.

It would be easier to answer if you give some details. What ecu do you have, what car/engine, what ignition system, what tacho and how have you wired it?

Hang on, you said injectors are paired 1&6 etc, but then you say injector 1 is working but injector 6 isnt? If injector 1 is firing then that proves the inj drive is ok, if they are both wired to the same drive then they should both be working - it could only be a wiring issue or seized injector or similar? Can you confirm if that is what you are trying to say?

I would be suspicious that your wideband is not working correctly, maybe a failed sensor. In some areas it just flat lines at a constant 1.289 and in many areas it responds leaner when the injector pulsewidth in increased and richer when the PW is decreased. The only time it looks like it is working correctly - or at least showing normal response to other variables is between about 0:30 and 1:14

Triggerscope looks ok to me. Change back to cam pulse 1x sync mode and add or subtract 360 deg from your offset. I suspect you are probably firing on exhaust stroke when you tried.

The V88 was a wire-in ecu, but the Vipec plug-in ECU was based on the same hardware. The main hardware difference is the plug-in didnt get the peak & hold inj drives. Yours is a plug-in ECU for an Evo IV-VIII

If your car is later than 2001 then it is not supported. If it is a 1998-2001 model and tuned using the modeled fuel equation then the fuel gauge should work correctly.

No, they should run at spring pressure without any boost control at all, the solenoid can only increase boost above spring pressure (by bleeding air out of the wastegate diaphragms). I have never used a factory one as have only worked on cars with significant modifications and running higher boost. If you only want to run factory boost level then changing to a different valve will unlikely give you any advantage.

The Xtreme will certainly run the engine fine but be aware parallel installs in an auto DBW car are usually fairly challenging and usually end with many compromises. I have been asked to fix other tuners attempts at it in the past. I generally try to steer people away from the idea when asked. You have to do lots of research first to confirm how the factory system works, but usually you have to leave the factory ECU in control of the DBW to keep the gear shift torque reduction working and factory ECU out of limp mode, but the problem with that is DBW ecu's usually control the idle using a combination of ignition timing and DBW. So when you move the ignition control to a different ecu it is difficult to get the two now separate idle control systems to play well together. The car will often stall when you put it in gear etc, or the idle ignition control will start fighting against the DBW idle control. So its not impossible, but you will need a very good, patient experienced tuner and potentially lots of time/money...

That would work fine just as you have drawn it, but one of the slightly modified options below would be the more common way of doing it.

That is a Vipec V88 based plugin. It has built-in knock control and a few more inputs and outputs compared to the earlier V44 based plugins. Download VTS software V4.10.2 from the Vipec website. https://www.vi-pec.com/software/vts-v4-10-2.1784

Most people would fit an aftermarket boost solenoid as the factory ones usually have only a small range of control. I suspect in your case if you only want 0.9bar it wont be far off spring pressure so you probably wont even need boost control.

Aux outputs supply a ground when on. Make sure the 12V side of the relay coil comes from a source that is only live when the ignition switch on. And I would probably ignore the comments above about using a GP aux, virtual auxes etc, the G4 has a native "IC spray" function built in that will take care of all the logic.

Can you add a better photo of the serial number (or just type it here), cant read the photo at all.

There could be a couple of possibilities going on here. Can you please do this: With the "set base timing screen" open and engine running, set the "lock timing to" box to 15deg. Then with your timing light check that the 15deg mark on the pulley lines up. If it doesnt line up then adjust the middle "offset" number until it does. Now with the set base timing screen still open, rev the engine to say 4000RPM, check that the the 15deg mark on pulley is still aligned well. If you see any the timing mark has moved more than 1 or 2 deg away from 15 mark when you rev it then there is some problem with the trigger or ignition settings. Report back if timing stays steady at 15 or moves when you rev it and I will advise next steps to diagnose.

You wont get good results with either of these options with closed loop on, they were designed to work with it off.

Using the interpolate mode gets a bit restrictive but you have a few options. One would be like below, put your high/low boost switch on one axis of one or both tables. In this example with the switch off your boost control would be a blend between the "0 row" in these two tables depending on eth%. With the high boost switch on it would blend between the bottom rows of each table. Another option if you want to stick to the interpolate mode is use the "Boost gear trim". You could set up your "hi boost switch" as a gear position input and calibrate it so that the ecu interprets "off" as 1st gear and "on" is 2nd gear. This will then give you an extra trim when the switch is on. A further option would be to turn off interpolate mode and use three individual tables. You can set up a virtual aux to switch between table 1 and 2 at say 40% eth or whatever you like, then the high boost switch activates the third table.

Can you attach your tune also. Does the idle speed drop to an acceptable RPM if you unplug the idle valve?

Make sure you reverse the logic on the engine speed filter also - the conditions are what data you want to include in the result.

I had a closer look at this tonight, unfortunately we cant make the Oil press or fuel press work as I thought. The problem is the E888 has a very odd format for the compound message ID. Most CAN devices use a full byte as the ID but this device only uses the first three bits. The user defined CAN set up in the G4+ only has facility to decode a message that has the ID covering a full byte. The EGT's will come through correctly using the built-in E888 stream. Also your E888 AN V1 & AN V2 will still be received into the ECU using the built-in stream but it will be as raw millivolts so not very useful as pressures. i.e if you fuel press sensor is outputting 3.5V, the ECU will receive that as "CAN AN V1 3500mV". You should still be able to use them for things like GP Limiters etc but I admit it is a bit more painful than having a native "Fuel pressure" channel.