Adamw

All the ECU needs to power up is 12V on pin 5 and ground on 25 or 34. So if you are seeing no blue LED it suggests one of those is missing or the ecu is damaged. If it we me, I would remove it from the car and just power it up on the bench using a couple of test wires and a battery to isolate whether it was wiring or ECU. The ECU's are fairly rigorously tested for 24hours at very high and low temps before shipping so it would be highly unlikely to ever see one DOA...

Yep, its a bit confusing the interaction between Aux 9, 10 & 4. These 3 auxes have some interaction as they are designed to be able to work together in an H bridge configuration for drive by wire motor control. If Electronic throttle is turned off in the software, then "Aux 9" in software/PC Link controls the "Aux 10" pin output/hardware. Hence aux 9 set to purge in the software. You will notice there is not even an "Aux 10" in the software/PC Link. The Aux 9 pin on the expansion port can only be used for E-throttle, it cannot be used for anything else (when e-throttle is enabled then Aux 4 actually controls this pin). How about Inj 7 - are you already using that?

There is not even an idle valve set up in your tune. Normally it is on Aux 4 but your aux 4 is turned off. Has anyone changed that recently? Does it actually have an idle valve on the manifold?

Is it a G4 or G4+?

Just a couple of thoughts to consider... Pin 25 & 34 should both be grounded to the same point on the engine. Ground the IGN1A pin C to the rotor housing. The ECU relay only has the ECU and the crank sensor connected so there will only be less than 0.5A going through that relay. It's usually preferred to have the ECU connected to the same power source as the injectors so that it knows injector voltage and can apply the correct dead times, so I would move the injector power off the fuel pump relay and put it on the ECU relay also. This is up to you but if it were me I would have both fuel pumps connected to just one fuel pump relay. The lift pump will only be pulling 5A or less.

1JZ-VVTi Start up Monsoon.pclr

There are a couple of small differences I see but im not sure all of the lambda change is explained. Before the stall your charge temp was 30°C, after restart it had increased to 41°, this would make about a 4% increase in fuel pulse width. Also before the stall the engine was running in a VE cell of 50%, after restart the VE from the fuel table is 53.6%, so this is about a 7% increase in fuel. Having said that, Im not sure I believe your lambda device as the injector duty cycle is actually quite a bit shorter after restart than before it stalled yet the lambda shows richer. Inj DC dropped from 4% to about 2.5%. What brand is the Lambda device and do you trust it? Not many cars would actually idle at 1.2/1.3 lambda so it seems a little unbelievable. Im not convinced your idle valve is working at all as in the first few minutes it goes from 70%DC to 30%DC with barely any change in idle speed. Does it click when you set the output to test mode? Now a questions: For the first 60 seconds the engine is revving up but the throttle shows zero. Also at time 2:30 the engine starts revving but the throttle shows zero. There must be some air coming from somewhere for the RPM to increase like this? Also, forgot to say, you should update your firmware, you are on a very old version that has had many improvements since.

I think you have caused some confusion judging from Simons reply. Note the non VVT 1UZ is not 12-1 in stock form, it is just 12 evenly spaced teeth on the crank. The G4X base map that I suggested you use is already setup correctly for this. With a 12 evenly spaced tooth crank wheel you will need the cam sensor, there is no way it can work without it. If you have modified the stock wheel to 12-1 then it will be ok without a cam sensor but you will need to change the trigger setup in the base map as suggested by Simon.

There is a 1UZ base map in the G4X software. It is from an atom but it will be converted to monsoon when you load it into your ecu. Just change the ignition mode from twin distributor to wasted spark.

Attach your tune and I will have a quick look. Although turning off accel might have helped, I suspect this is just covering up a problem that is coming from somewhere else in the tune. You really need accel enrichment, you will find flat spots when you try to accelerate without it. Does it run ok when warmed up?

Do you also have EGT's connected to the E888, or only the pressure sensors?

If you attach your ECU and dash configs I should be able to set this up.

Sorry Im not seeing it. Below is the first 40 odd seconds, RPM green, Throttle dark blue. Your RPM seems to follow exactly what your foot is doing, the only time RPM drops is when your throttle is closed. If you feels like you have a cut then it sounds more like a misfire issue as I dont see any cuts at all in this log.

Yeah for temp sensors connected to analog inputs you need to use a custom cal table - usually cal 1, 2 or 3 is easiest. If you use a 1Kohm pull-up resistor then you can set the cal table input units to be ohms and enter the resistances from your workshop manual directly into the table and it will do the conversion to voltage math in the background. Most common Japanese sensors will be based on the bosch curve (you can confirm by measuring resistance of your sensor at 20degC it should be ~2500ohm). There are resistance and voltage tables for the most common sensors you can reference in the help file: Technical Terms and Reference > Sensor Calibrations

It appears you may have the TPS wired wrong. Your voltage only varys from about 0.95V to 1.2V from open to closed, normally you would see more like a 3.5V range from open to closed. The GM TPS are usually wired like below, is yours wired like this?

There is no boost cut in your log. There is only one area in the first 1 minute when you have 100% throttle (for only 0.5seconds), in that area it reaches 5700RPM and 28psi boost so it appears to be doing everything it should be. Are you sure you are looking at the same log file?

Also important with the Bosch valves, set the minimum clamp to 15%. They start to open again below 10%.

Oh right. Im pretty sure if you contacted Link service department they would be happy to add a couple of wire links in to give you access to ign 5/6. It used to be about a NZD$150 fee for a basic mod like that when I was there.

I would have normally expected the pull-ups to be turned on, so that is the first thing I would suggest (both trig 1 & 2). Also it looks like your trigger settings are wrong. Trigger mode should be multitooth (it looks like you have it set to multitooth/missing). Trig 1 multitooth position should be Cam with a tooth count of 24. Trig 2 settings look ok.

Yep. For Ign MAP is probably the most correct indicator of cylinder pressure but I often find it easier to use the same axis on both the fuel and ign tables as you dont lose your spot when you are on the dyno switching between fuel & ign tables. So I usually put MGP on both tables. If I was doing a high boost pikes peak car or something I might consider the options more closely...

Assuming they are high impedance injectors it will be fine. If they are low impedance it may also need some ballast resistors added. From a tune perspective you will get it running reasonably well just by changing the master fuel number. From there the whole fuel map/zones will likely need a tickle up.

I think you might be mixing up a couple of things. Over-run fuel cut only occurs when you lift-off/coast with the throttle closed to save fuel. This occurs regularly in your log but only with the throttle closed and will never never happen on boost. This is not a boost cut or any other limiter action showing in your log. What is the actual problem that you are experiencing?

Ign 5 & 6 arent physically routed to any pins or connector on that particular ECU. What are you wanting to do - 6 cyl engine or just need more auxes?

Assuming you have the idle valve frequency set to something suitable and it is actually working, then if the idle speed is not high enough when the valve is already at 90% then you are going to have to adjust the throttle stop screw so more air can enter the engine.

Correct, what some other manufacturers call "rolling antilag" is known as latched launch control in the G4+. It functions as you describe. When you are driving along and hit the button, the ECU looks at the current RPM and latches this as the launch limiter, you can then open the throttle as much as you like and the ecu will hold the engine/car at the same RPM/speed using a limiter. As soon as you let go of the button the limiter is removed and the engine is allowed to accelerate.