Adamw

If it is saying AN Temp to is at 5V that means it is open circuit. i.e the temp sensor is either not connected to pin 36 or the other side is not connected to ground.

Make sure the ecu firmware is at least 5.6.4. The port furthermost from the MAP port (should have a red oring around it) is the USB tuning port, not CAN. The port closest to the MAP should be CAN 1. Attach your tune and I will make sure you have it set up right.

Pull-up off is fine in this case. Copy the red numbers from my picture. You need to confirm with a timing light, there is no other option. You may be able to paint a new TDC mark on the pulley underneath or somewhere where it is easier to see. Triggers>calibrate>set base timing.

The plug-in ecu’s only have saturated injector drives so you either need to leave the factory ballast in place and use low impedance injectors or remove it and use high impedance.

Yes engine needs to be running.

How to do a trigger scope: https://1drv.ms/v/s!AiYbYlZQuRHPmieMTkwQDCXEb2LY

A condensor is generally to reduce magnetic loop noise that is generated at high load. I dont think this is your problem when doing an ign test as spark voltage will be very low. If your TPS signal gets noisy when doing an ignition test then it would suggest you have a wiring problem. My guess would be there is either a poor ground connection between ECU and engine block or you have sensor ground connected to engine/chassis somewhere.

Yes you can make these work ok. The AEMNet uses a huge range of different CAN ID's however and the G4+ is limited to 6 ID's so you wont be able to get the full range of everything that it is capable of but you can usually get everything you want to the gauge no worries. If you tell me what channels you would like to view on the gauge I can tell you what is possible. A bit of further info towards the bottom of this post:

You can set up a timer and virtual aux to be triggered by gear shift status and use that timer/aux to increase the knock target to say 1000 for a short time during/after a gear shift. I will give you an example later.

Your trigger settings do not match what Simon gave you above. Fix the ones highlighted in pink to match Simons example. I would also suggest you change these two cells in your trigger 1 arming threshold table: Have you confirmed that ignition timing is correct with a timing light when cranking? If so and your 234deg trigger offset gives correct timing then you can also try subtracting 360deg (so try -126deg). The next step is to do a log when it is cranking and attach that here. How to do log: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_P1LRANeO4A And also do a trigger scope when cranking and attach here. How to do trigger scope: https://1drv.ms/v/s!AiYbYlZQuRHPmidU5V2CmTcv6t2y?e=kc5yTL

You would only really need to change it to MGP if you needed to compensate for significant baro/altitude changes. If not just leave it alone. If you want to change all you need to do is subtract your typical BAP value from your MAP axis break points. ie. if your typical BAP is 95Kpa and you have a row on your fuel table with a MAP break point of 80kpa then when you change the axis to MGP, you would set that row break point to -15Kpa.

There are 2 EGT's available in the OBD2 output, no oil pressure though. Supported OBD2 PID's are listed in the pic at the bottom. Be aware that OBD2 is a request/response system so is quite slow compared to continuously broadcast CAN streams that the other options use. You may get 10Hz max. So I would probably tend to avoid the OBD2 options if it were me. Not many of the common aftermarket ECU's have EGT's in their data stream. One of the few I can think of would be Haltech. So you could look at the Haltech version of the Perfect tuning or Banks gauges. We could then set up the CAN output in the Link to duplicate to Haltech CAN stream. However the way the Haltech CAN stream is structured uses up the available CAN ID's quickly. The RX7 plug-in only has one CAN port so that means you have 6 CAN slots (ID's) to use, the list of channels you want to send will use up 5 of them (as below). You mentioned also a CAN lambda which will use up the last one. This leaves you no spare. Are your EGT's going to be CAN bus or just analog? Haltech ID's: Manifold press, RPM, TPS = 0x360 Lambda1-4 = 0x368 Oil & Fuel press 0x361 EGT 1 & 2 = 0x373 Oil temp, coolant temp & Air temp = 0x3E0 You can also look at http://www.btigauges.com/haltech.html or the Haltech/GaugeArt CAN gauge (I cant find any information on what channels this has available). Also take a look at the Plex tuning uSDM (https://www.plex-tuning.com/products/new-plex-micro-display/), maybe a little more pricey but it is very nice and has fully user configurable CAN so you can display anything you like and will only use up 1 or 2 CAN slots in the Link.

In the main ecu settings tree, go to aux outputs menu, click on virtual aux one for the timer setting and click on GP AUX PWM8 for the bump hardness setting.

On the dyno I generally test with constant water temp but vary the air temp by directing hot air from exhaust or radiator into the air box. That is a bit hard to do with road tuning. Probably if it were me I would export a big log into MegalogviewerHD (so you can generate a lambda error math channel) and do a scatter plot of lambda error versus charge temp to see if a trend pops out. You may be able to do something similar directly in PC Link by turning on CLL and scatter plotting CLL fuel correction vs Charge temp.

Once you have a bit more info I can give you something more relevant. With the info you have given so far you might as well just use the Storm base map.

Ok, attached your tune with the MEFI 4B CAN setup on CAN port 1. The MEFI uses a bit of an odd PGN (65500) and I dont know what PGN your device supports. If it doesnt work see if you can find any further info on the PGN's your device supports. I dont have a lot of experience with J1939 so may not be much further help but happy to take a look. vq35updatedsoftware.TUNINGATTUNECORP With NMEA2000.pclr

If you load the map into the fury it will be converted to a fury map, and will inherit all the fury IO and features. You can then save it back on to your PC. Otherwise attach here and I can load it in an ecu.

Yes, just set the retard (ign trim) to zero and leave the fuel trim table set to off.

Those are non-amplified coils, you will need to wire in ignitors or change to coils with built-in amplifiers.

Correct. The only disadvantage with wasted spark Vs Direct spark is you cant do individual cylinder knock control or individual cylinder ignition trims with wasted spark. You can still do knock control or individual trims on pairs of cylinder however.

Attach your tune I will give you a set up you can try. No guarantees it will work for you but this was one I done for a Boss Hoss motorcycle that originally had a marine V8 engine with a MEFI 4B ecu and the dash comms were apparantly based on "J1939 with Nema2000 fast packet utilization". It had some wierd counters that I couldnt reproduce exactly but it was close enough to make the bike dash work. That doesnt mean your device will be happy though. Being a bike it only had a few basics, RPM, water temp, speed, batt volts & oil press

Yes, however the Fury only has 6 ignition outputs so you need to wire the coils in pairs to fire in wasted spark.

Try attached files. I have set up the dash warnings in a couple of different ways so you can choose what you like best. Traction is set up with a pop-up red screen and LED 2 will flash red. Launch is set up as a message in the info line and LED will be solid amber. Display page 4 has icons that turn on/off with traction and launch. You will need the latest Race studio 3 and latest firmware in your dash. BMWMiniR53G4XtremePlugin New CAN.pclr MXS 1.2 Strada 1320MINI.zconfig

Hit the F12 key or letter "R" on your keyboard

Attach a log and tune and I will take a look.