Adamw

Go to motorsport>launch control. Set it to mode 2. Set the activation control to whichever DI is your transbrake button. Set the arming time to zero. You can then set the Launch RPM, retard (ign trim) and fuel trim to whatever you like.

Going into the relay or coming out of it? You can view the actual voltage that is on pin B5 by looking at the ECU Status tab of the runtimes screen:

The power to Aux9/10 comes from the E-throttle relay, if the ECU is not happy about anything related to e-throttle it will go into safety mode and turn off the E-throttle relay - you then get the Aux9/10 supply error fault. So this will just be related to E-throttle settings not right - most likely pedal or TPS calibrations not done. If you switch E-throttle mode to "On - setup" then it will ignore the faults and should be happy. Obviously dont drive it in set-up mode however.

There should be 2 shielded cables on the A loom - these are for crank and cam, then also 2 shielded cables on the B loom, these are for knock sensors. Inside these shielded cables there are only two wires, signal and ground, for a hall effect sensor you have to run a separate wire for the power - usually the 8V wire.

You need to use head phones that have a 3 pole 3.5mm jack, often referred to as stereo. Most smartphone earbuds have a 4 pole plug as they also have a microphone, these won’t work.

Assuming you are talking about an ECU log? There should be a channel logged called something like "Speed (DI #3)".

There is an onboard BAP sensor in all G4+ ECU's. There is no output connected to pin 8.

So you're saying the DSC switch is working now? You just want status displayed on dash?

This is effectively how the ECU hold power circuit works on the Evo3 plug-in - although it uses a MOSFET instead of a relay. Duplicate this and you should be ok:

If you want to use existing wiring for the IAT then probably the easiest option is at the ecu connector pull the AFM signal wire out of pin 27 and move it to pin 36. Pin 36 is AN Temp 2. Then in the engine bay connect your temp sensor to the AFM signal and AFM ground wires.

The info I have suggests the DSC on/off message comes from the "IKE" (instrument cluster module), is the "IKE" part of the "rev counter" that you remove? If you open the runtimes screen (F12) and go to the CAN tab does CAN DIG #4 turn on/off with the DSC switch?

Ok, sounds ok I think. Very unlikely to ever get near the 500ma limit. Most sensors are about 5ma each. All 5V and sensor ground pins and connected to the same power supply inside so if any of those 5V pins is shorted or overloaded it will mean all sensors are lost - even if they are connected to a separate 5V pin. You take care of this situation using the analog input error settings so that the defaults are fail safes.

The point in your log where your cursor is is showing a calculated ratio of 23.5, this is roughly halfway between the ratio values for 5th and 6th gear in your ratio table, so it shows zero (there is a little hysteresis either side of half way). So it appears maybe your ratio table calibration is a little out. I suggest you look through the log at what the average calculated ratio values are and enter them into your table manually.

Contact [email protected] and explain the situation. They will either direct you to the original dealer that sold the ecu or in some special cases where the dealer cant or wont do it they will be able to.

You're right, it does appear to be shutting down due to over temp. However in most cases where it has shut down the motor duty cycle was only around -25% DC at the time, so assuming a typical motor load I would expect it should normally be happy to run all day at that. The periods that you see with it sitting at -80% DC is actually after it has shut off - you can tell as the spring pushes the TP back to 6% which is its neutral position. So something is making it run hotter than it should be. The logged ecu temperature looks fine so I think that leaves 2 other possibilities: The load connected to aux9/10 is higher than expected (low resistance). This could be a partial short in the motor windings or wiring etc. It wouldnt hurt to pull the aux 9 & 10 wires out of the ecu connector and measure the resistance across those two wires. I dont really know what to expect as I havent measured one for a long time but if it measured less than about 2ohms then I would probably research it a bit more to see if I could confirm what is normal. The second possibility would be an internal hardware issue such as the heatsink come unstuck or a bad connection/pcb track/solder join causing more heat than normal to be generated. If the motor resistance checks out then I would suggest you contact tech support to get the ecu checked out.

You can enter it but you dont need to. That table you have there matches the "Bosch Std NTC" calibration that is already built-in. You should use the 1K pull-up.

My hunch is the timer 1 will probably need to be more like 0.1s and the PWM will need to be more like 25% for a decent bump but the examples above are probably a nice conservative place to start.

The trigger scopes dont look a whole lot different - although they never looked bad. I dont think we will know if there is still a problem until you drive it.

The wiring diagram looks mostly ok to me. Lambda will be fine connected there. One thing Im not sure is needed - the "Fuel & Ign relay", why have you got that triggered by Aux 4? Normally one side of the relay coil would just be grounded and the otherside switched by the ign switch. Also, the "main switch" looks like it has a lot of load going through it - not sure if this is an isolator or ign switch, is it capable of 40A or something?

A quick check you can do is remove the sensor and put it in a kettle of boiling water (while still connected to ecu) and it should read near 100°C. You can do the same in ice water to check it at 0°C. If they are stock BMW sensors then they should just use the "Std Bosch NTC" calibration setting.

Can you attach the log and tune.

So is this a GTS/GTR ecu or the R34 GTT ecu? For the boost solenoid they are not polarity sensitive so it doesnt matter which wire gets connected to the ECU, the second wire needs to be connected to a +12V source that is only live when the ign switch is on.

The best option would be to use a wire-in ecu and a patch harness. It might be worth a shot talking to Mark @ panic wire as he makes a lot of different Toyota patch harnesses. A/C, E-throttle and vvti will be no drama. Traction control uses a 2nd throttle body so that is not going to work. Although I know of some uses that have made the sequential turbos work you are talking many months of tweaking and tuning to get it acceptable so dont expect that to come easy - it wouldnt be something that many customers would pay for.

Can you give a bit more detail about what you want to acheive with traction control, I dont understand what your actual problem is... Do you want the traction switch to turn the TC on/off in the Link ecu or something else?

Please do a log of it idling good then bad after a restart. You can share your files using google drive, onedrive or similar.