Adamw

Back in the G4 days, Link marketed the Vi-pec range as the premium ECU and the G4 as the lower cost less frills version. The mixture map functionality was one of the premium features that the Vipec had and the G4 didnt. Knock control, P&H injector drives & configurable CAN where the other differences I remember.

Do a short PC log of it cranking and attach that and a copy of your map here. This video is for a G4+, but navigation in G4 is similar: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_P1LRANeO4A

Im assuming first the ECU is wired to a car and powered up... Incorrect or just junky USB OTG adapters is the most common problem I see with tablets. If you look in windows device manager under ports COM & LPT you should see a Link ECU listed in there when it is plugged in. If not then you have a connection/cable issue.

If you put PC Link on your tablet, does that connect ok? The most common problem I see is junk USB OTG adapters that dont work, so connecting to PC Link will be an easy way to confirm that.

No, Black goes to a solid ground. Red needs to go to a relay that switches on with the ignition switch. CAN H & L need to be wired to the ECU. If you have a plug-in ECU then you will want a CANPCB cable and the mating CANF plug to connect the CAN.

The odd idle oscillation when it is warming up appears to be due to the throttle bouncing around a bit. However, Im not sure on the root cause of this, it is not the idle control system as the CL trim stays near zero, it is either the E-throttle PID is a bit aggressive or maybe something completely unrelated (such as mechanical vibration or resonance in the intake etc) that is having an influence. I would start by reducing the E-throttle Proportional gain to 6.0 and also fix the warmup enrichment table so that it is not so overly rich during warmup. Lets see if these make it any happier.

The base map is set up to use MAP, not MAF. Assuming you have connected a vacuum hose to the MAP sensor, then set AN Volt 11 to MAP and the calibration to 4 Bar. You also need to set your injector size to match whatever you have - it is currently set to 900cc which is unlikely on a stock engine.

Attach your tune and tell me which E888 inputs the pressure sensors are connected to.

CJ is on the money here, CAN AN Volt channels display in volts only. For linear sensors you can often use the multiplier/divider/offset to scale it into something more meaningful - for instance you might scale it so that 100psi pressure is displayed/logged as 100.0V. You can also receive oil pressure, fuel pressure or exhaust pressure as native can channels. NTC Temp sensors are not normally linear so there is no way to calibrate these in G4+ from a CAN input - unless the linearisation is done in the sending device.

You will need to attach a log of it and a copy of your tune. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_P1LRANeO4A

When the ISC mode is set to E-throttle, the AP/TP lockout is looking at pedal position, not throttle position. So you should need any more than 1%, more commonly around 0.5% works best.

You will be best to attach here on the forum rather than PM so others may learn how to diagnose a similar problem based on the feedback you get.

Yes I beleive so, im not sure on the value of it though.

You should be able to connect directly CAN H/L, no resistors needed.

Before you get too stressed about it, as far as I can think, the fuel density temperature coefficient will only mater if you actually have a fuel temp sensor connected (or flex sensor). So if you don't then it is of little consequence. If you do have fuel temp connected then I would go for the petrol number since the small amount of additives is unlikely to change its bulk properties much (that's just my intuition - no scientific evidence to back that up).

There is no VVT functionality in the Atom - only "switched" camshafts such as honda Vtec or Nissan VTC. The Monsoon is the lowest level ecu with proper VVT support.

In your earlier logs with the ign timing going to zero, the idle ignition was rarely active and the table didn't even have any zeros in it so the "dropping to zero" was not resolved by turning it off. The dropping to zero was caused by the ecu losing sync every few revolutions due to the cam wiring. That's not to say however after fixing the cam wiring that you then had an idle oscillation that was related to idle ignition control. Based on your log, I would change the idle ign activation conditions just a little, try something like: MAP lockout 45kpa. RPM lockout 1300. AP lockout 0.5%.

Boost solenoid will be ok without a flywheel assuming it is a common mac valve at 20-30Hz. The ign drives are only pulled up to about 7V. You can add a 12V pull up if needed. Assuming the PS pump only needs a low current signal then 1-2Kohm will do it.

Ok, it looks to me like we have solved the ign dropping to zero problem now, is that correct? Do your longer logs show the ign dropping to zero like it did before? BTW, if you want to attach more files then share it using google drive, onedrive, icloud drive etc. As for the idle hunting, there are a few things all contributing. Mostly though it is the throttle causing it. I would start by increasing the ISC deadband, something like 50RPM is more common for DBW. DBW idle control is too slow to give good idle control on its own - by the time it opens to increase idle RPM, there is already enough air in there for it to overshoot - then it has to close again and so on. So you need ign control to work in conjunction with it. For idle ign control to work well you are going to want smaller numbers in the idle area of your main ign table - usually around 10deg gives you enough authority for the idle ign to quickly increase torque when it needs to. So if you have 10deg in the main ign table, then you want your idle ign table to look something like this: You may have to play with the numbers either side of the zero cell if this is too aggressive. The fuel table needs to be flattened out around idle area too, switch to graphic mode and you will see what I mean.

It is a Japanese automotive standard wire known as AVSS. Thin insulation, rated for intermittent use at 120°C. 0.75mm2 for the Red and Black wires, 0.5mm2 for the rest. American grade TXL is quite similar.

Ok, I see a few things wrong. Inj 8 which was ECU hold power has been turned off - this is needed so that the ecu can stay alive for a few seconds after shut down so that the idle valve can reset to its home position. Also your hold power keep alive time was set to zero. Without these the idle valve would have always been in an unknown position - most likely fully closed. Your idle base position table was "back to front" (bigger numbers when cold instead of smaller), for a stepper motor this table represents "steps from fully open" so smaller number means more air. I have fixed these mistakes up in the map attached below. Load it in, do a store - then power off for say 10secs then back on and start. See if it is any closer to working. If it still doesnt idle you can highlight the whole idle base position table and hit say "-50" to make the whole table smaller which should give you more air/higher idle. A couple of other things that dont look right and need to be considered: Your dwell table is set to "duty cycle mode", this is pretty unusual and may be difficult to get right (typically only used for CDI systems and odd dwell controlled small modules). I would probably change it back to ms mode unless this was done for a specific reason. Your Lambda is showing about 0.55 which seems wrong - I dont even think the X series can measure that low. So I suspect you have a calibration problem here. This means your fuel mixture is not where you beleive it to be and may be contributing to your idle problem. 1943688588_2JZGET Fixed idle settings.pclr

Your cam sensor is wired back to front, Im not sure if this is the cause of the problem but thats the first thing to fix - swap the +/- wires on the cam sensor. That is normal - dont ask me why but its always done that since way back. Not related to what you are seeing here.

Thats odd alright. I havent had a good look but im leaning towards possibly a trigger problem. Can you do us a triggerscope at idle also.

Only 4 degs authority will not give you much increase in torque. Try it more retarded at normal idle so you can push in more advance when torque increase is needed. Something like 0RPM = 5 or 8deg. -100RPM = 18deg, -150RPM = 25deg. The S54 throttles work nicer with a more retarded idle too.

No, there are 4 terminals. 1 is constant 12V. 2 is the low current PWM signal from ecu. 3 & 4 are both constant ground (it differentiates signal and power ground but fine to connect them both to chassis).