Adamw

Set it to semi-sequential will give you the same set-up as before.

How far out are you talking? What was PC Link reading compared to what you believed the real temp should be? Just to confirm the sensor is correct, can you measure its resistance when the engine is cold/room temperature, the delphi sensors should be about 3500ohms at 20deg C.

You have CAN 1 turned off in the CAN set up screen. It needs to be set to user defined, 1Mb bit rate and set one of the channels to Link CAN lambda, And although not actually necessary to specify the ID, I always like to enter 950 as the ID so it is reserved. So, it should look something like this:

Sounds like you have done everything correct. I'll just make sure you have nothing plugged in to the CAN/Comm port below the USB port - this can mess with usb comms if connected at the same time. This doesnt sound quite right, depending on the background lighting I would generally consider the LED is reasonably bright. If it were me, the next thing I would try is remove it from the car and power it up on the bench with a couple of test leads. Just to eliminate a bad ground or similar. All it needs to go live is +12V on pin A5 and Ground on A34.

Is this a WRX V5/6 car/ecu? The ecu hold power needs to be on Inj drive 6 for it to work. The output was already assigned correctly in your map above but you have the keep alive time set to zero.

Without this the ECU will turn off as soon as ign is turned off so the stepper cant re-zero itself. This means next start up it will not be in the position the ECU believes it to be and will mess up idle control a lot. So this is the first thing that needs to be fixed before we can really diagnose if there is an idle problem. As per Ducies advice, 5 seconds will do. Do us another log after changing this. Edit, added later: In both places it nearly stalled the fan had just turned on as it came down to idle, Your fan step is set to 70 (crazy number?) but the idle valve only changed by about 3 steps - did you change this setting after the fact? Your fan is turning on/off a lot so I would set the hysteresis higher so that doesnt happen as often. You will want to set the fan step properly. It looks like overrun fuel cut is also playing a part. I would either turn it off temporarily to see how much it is interfering or bump up the highlighted cells to about 1800RPM.

Is this the Link "CANPCB" cable? Is it plugged into CAN 1 or CAN 2? Do you have anything else connected to the bus? Can you attach a copy of the tune.

correct.

The teeth on the crank are 30deg apart so to center the cam tooth between them you would need to move the cam tooth 15 crank degrees or 7 cam degrees. Sync needs to be on the cam for sequential. You will notice the cam tooth is roughly centered in the FSM pic so something has changed on yours, if it has adjustable cam pulleys that will be plenty to fix it, it doesnt matter which way you move it (you will need to check trigger offset afterwards as ign timing may change depending on which way you go).

It would be pretty unusual to have a single wire sensor connected to the ecu. Single wire sensors are usually only for a temp gauge. Are you sure there is not another sensor somewhere?

Ok, the problem with your trigger is shown below. Notice the cam tooth crosses zero volts at exactly the same time as a crank tooth crosses zero (where my yellow cursor is). This is very bad, it means as the cam tooth bounces either side of that crank edge due to cam belt slap etc. your ignition timing will suddenly shift by 30 degrees. So you could potentially have 30 deg more advance at random times which probably wont end well. What you have to do is move either the crank wheel or cam tooth so that the cam edge crosses zero roughly halfway between two crank edges. Thanks to my photoshop mastery, pic below is roughly how you want it to look; notice the cam falling edge zero crossing (purple dotted line) is roughly centered between two crank falling edge zero crossings (yellow dotted lines). And the official help file explanation which shows the aim is to be anywhere within that 50% zone between teeth:

Correct, it will never go to zero. It will sit at the sum of the main target table + idle base position + start up step. 7-15% would be pretty normal pre start position.

Yes, get the ECU back to Link HQ in NZ for testing. It has a lifetime warranty so you might as well take advantage of it. They have a burn-in tester for testing the ECU's hot and cold, if that doesnt show up anything there are a few other tricks they can do such as heating and flexing the PCB while connected to the test rig.

Assuming it is a skyline plug-in ECU then yes the IACV is used, often idle ignition is used also to stabalise idle. For help you really need to do a PC log of a drive and attach the log and your tune here.

It cant be done unfortunately (would be nice to be able to I agree). Most people have a google or onedrive account these days, so the easiest option is often just log into your drive, choose upload file, right click and "share link". Pretty sure dropbox is the same but if you dont have an account you will need o register etc. Also, wetransfer is another easy option - just go to the website, click add file, then get link.

I would probably lean more towards CJ's first suggestion which is to have main fuel control based on alphaN, but with a 4D MAP/RPM overlay added for any adjustment needed due to varying boost levels or the effect the turbo has on the scavenging (on a 4 stroke you often dont even need this 4D table as MAP is taken care of in the background). This way will make your life easier than your original requested strategy. With your requested method, anytime you want to change the injector staging or the split between primary/secondary, you would have to almost totally re-tune both fuel tables to get the mixture right again. With the 4D method you can experiment with injector staging/split after tuning the fuel tables without consequence.

Yeah, I was just going to say the same thing... The PWM Aux out is a low side drive, but it is pulled up to 12V when "off". Depending on how much current the alternator control circuit needs it will possibly work as is without anything extra. If that doesnot have enough grunt to drive it then all you will need to do is wire in an extra pull-up resistor. Something like this I would expect would be plenty:

Can you share the actual trigger scope file. Use dropbox, googledrive, onedrive or something like wetransfer

Code 43 is AN Temp 1 at 5V. This input would usually be the coolant temp sensor or the air temp sensor (if fitted). This error indicates either the sensor is dead (open circuit) or one of the wires/connections to the sensor is bad. Given it is a boat, check for corrosion at the connections first (and possibly the sensor ground splice). You can measure the resistance of the sensor with a multimeter to confirm it is ok - typically 2000-3000ohms at room temp would suggest it is ok.

The engineering team took a look at your triggerscope and says it matches the expected pattern well. Simon loaded your tune into a test ecu and ran it using a simulated crank/cam signal that matches yours, he gets fuel and spark outputs working as expected.

Sorry I didn’t write that very clear, you need to add your own resistor - it doesn’t have one.

There are no CAN errors showing in your map now. I dont see any reason for it either. I wouldnt worry about it unless you see dropouts or odd behavior on your dash.

The CAN H/L are the communication wires - these are the only 2 wires that get connected to the ECU. The Red/black are to supply power to the wideband controller, for these you need to find your own source in the car - normally would be connected to a relay/fuse that is only live when the ign switch is on. Yes, you should have a 120ohm terminating resistor connected across the Can H/L wires somewhere near the wideband connector.

That’s odd to have a receive error. Can you attach your latest ecu config so I can take a look.

I have some doubts that this would work. A few unknowns that make me hesitate... I dont know for sure with the S2000, but many Hondas that have reluctor sensors on the crank or cam have them wired to produce a rising edge signal rather than the falling edge that the Link needs. In a standalone situation this is no problem, you just wire the crank sensor opposite to factory and it works fine. However, in a piggyback situation you cant do that as it needs to be wired the original way to keep the factory ecu happy. Depending on how the trigger circuit works in the factory ECU you may be able to just connect the Link ECU "back to front", but in many cases the reluctor -ve pin is tied to sensor ground so that wont work - basically both the +/- sensor pins will end up connected ground through the ECU's and neither will work. Note, this is just a warning - be cautious before committing to the customer, it may work totally fine. The two big unknowns are if the factory ecu is wired for a rising edge signal and if so is one of those pins tied to sensor ground. You can obviously test for both with a scope and multimeter.