Adamw

Example attached. Note this is not from a running engine, just something I threw together. Rotary Example map.pclx

Correct. This setting is not usually relevent with direct spark. It only really comes into play when you have something like a V8 with a distributor and single coil that needs to dwell and spark 4 times every crank rev - in this scenario at high RPM you have very little time to do it - so if the ecu knows how long the spark duration is it can then shorten the dwell when there is not enough time to do both. In your case with direct spark your coils only need to dwell/spark once every 2 crank revs so you have plenty of time and are never going to get into the situation where there is not enough time to do both. Leave it set to 1.0ms is fine.

Check ECU firmware is 5.6.6 or later, the AIM stream was only added in 5.6.6. Is the dash connected to the 6 pin round port below the USB port? If so can you give us a photo of the CANF plug with the back cover screwed off.

Im not sure what you are looking for but the adjustment that is discussed in the post you quoted is the Idle base position table, you will find this in the idle speed control menu.

Assuming it is a G4+, not an older G4 (your post is in the G4 section), then below is the list of inputs that can be received as CAN bus messages. You will notice there are 8 "CAN TC Cyl%#", these are what you would usually use for the EGTs, there is no gearbox or diff temp in this list but you could use CAN TC Cyl 7 & 8 for these (so they are logged/displayed as "°C"), or you could use the "CAN AN V" channels but these are only displayed with "Volts" units. Or you have two spare temp inputs on the expansion connector so you could wire the gearbox/diff temp directly to the ECU (would then be labeled more correctly and have correct units).

I dont think I have ever seen a knock sensor fail. You will know when it is not working as you wont hear the engine noise in your ear anymore.

Is the dash connected to serial or CAN? What is the part number of the racepak VNet module? Can you attach a copy of your tune.

Yes that sensor normally uses the Hella calibration. The resistance curve for the hella sensor is in the help file if you wanted to measure yours at a couple of points to verify it matches (ice and boiling water is normally a good reference).

The RS232 signal is +/-10V. I've never tried any bluetooth devices but many bluetooth/serial devices dont work as a totally transparent "wired" connection, they often need the ecu or PC software to send some type of additional initialization command. I believe also some have too much latency for the initialization messages between PCLink/ECU to succeed. The only advice I have is make sure PC Link is set up for the matching baud, try ticking the "slow connection" checkbox and make sure there is no USB cable attached to the normal tuning port. Otherwise check the documentation for the device to see if there is a way to enable a transparent mode.

The fuel consumption gauge is driven by the Aux 4 PWM DC table. It is based on MAP/RPM so has no direct relationship back to values in the VE table or modelled/traditional mode. In a car with stock injectors/fuel pressure, it should give realistic numbers but I doubt it was ever highly accurate. If you have larger injectors etc then you would just highlight that whole table and multiply it by a percentage until the number on the gauge reports something realistic again.

The ST205 basemap in PC Link will work, you will have to load it into your monsoon, then configure your inputs and outputs to match your wiring.

Not really enough parameters logged to tell. There isnt even anything logged to show there was a cut at 44 seconds. I would say most likely launch control or gear shift cut as they both have relationships to 4500RPM. For instance your foot might be slightly resting on the clutch causing gear shift cut to activate. I suggest you go for a drive with the laptop plugged in so yo can log all parameters - otherwise add percentage ign cut and limits flag word to your ECU logging.

Dave beat me to it but since I was nearly done I will post this anyway... The Skyline ecu has 4 temperature inputs, pin 36 is AN Temp 2, then on the expansion connector you have AN Temp 3 and AN Temp 4, you can use anyone of these inputs for IAT.

The ST185/205 base map should be able to run it reasonably well with just the master fuel change. If it doesnt then I would suspect there is something else is wrong. I would expect for 550cc injectors on a 500cc cylinder the master would need to be around 15-20ms so it sounds like you have already covered that. The best way forward will be to share a short log and your tune. You will have to use a file sharing service like dropbox/google drive etc.

You can log RPM and the DI frequency and pick a point in your log where you know what gear it was is and just divide one by the other and enter the result in your table. Im not at home to test but I had a vague recollection that the gear ratio number was actually RPM/KMH so it might pay to log speed as well try that if RPM/Frequency didnt work. The other option is just to jack the wheels up of the ground and do the quick auto gear calibration on the spot.

Basically, error 69 is the original problem, it means the ECU has supplied maximum power to the throttle motor for more than 5 seconds but it never reached its target, it then assumes there is a problem and goes into safety mode, shuts power down to the throttle and this causes the error 75. So Error 75 is most likely just a symptom of whatever caused error 69. The most likely cause of error 69 is either a bad TPS calibration/failing sensor, or it could be mechanically jamming/restricted. Probably the first step is to go to set the throttle to run with the engine off, then go to the runtimes screem and watch that TP main travels all the way to 100% when you step on the pedal.

Yep, I think they do use absolute. Try an offset of 1013. Add Eng speed and TP main to same stream as MAP, as below. Add oil temp to same stream as IAT and ECT as below. For injector duty and batt voltage you would have to give up some of the other channels as you only have 6 CAN IDs to play with and haltech spread them over many more. Copy attached. Haltech-CAN-Broadcast-Protocol-v2-0.pdf

If you are using the The coils will be some off your problem, the M50 has non amplified coils so the ECU has ignitors built in. If you are using coils with ignitors built in you will be firing off the wrong edge. This is covered in the manual, I will attach a copy below. Also, as I asked earlier, can you do a triggerscope.

First step is probably to do a short PC log of it cranking and attach that and a copy of your tune here. How to set up and start/stop logger: https://youtu.be/_P1LRANeO4A

The Link black wire (trigger 1) goes to AEM crank. The Link Red wire goes to AEM Cam. You can use either one of the trigger1/2 white wires in the sheilded cables as sensor ground, leave the other one disconnected or cut it off. You will have to add your own wire for the power supply. Although I expect the 8V should be fine, since AEM state 12V, I would probably suggest you get that from some other ign switched 12V supply in the car - coil or injector relay for instance.

You have the I/O assigned correctly in your installer table. For basic software setup you can copy one of the S6/7/8 base maps. Pinout info etc for OMP is in the help file page: Wiring Information > Rotary Engine Wiring > Metering Oil Pump Wiring. And on this page there is a fairly complete article explaining how to calibrate and test it: G4+ ECU Tuning Functions > Auxiliary Outputs > Rotary Oil Pump Control. The down side of the OMP is it does burn up 4 auxes and a valuable analog input. If you have the factory FD trigger with reluctor sensor I would save yourself the money and leave it alone. The Stock trigger wheel is 36-2-2-2 so has the same 10deg resolution as a 36-1. A reluctor sensor is more accurate than a hall effect and gives far better signal to noise ratio (noise immunity) at high RPM where it is important. The only reason to change to hall effect is when using ECU's with poor VR conditioning circuits (AEM, Megasquirt, Microtech, old haltech etc). FYI, if you did still want to change to FFE hall for whatever reason, the Link 8V pin is fine. Both hall sensors that FFE sell are speced for a 5-24V power supply. If the engine is running now then it has already been unlocked and is unlocked forever. You will have no drama doing firmware updates or anything. If it hasnt been unlocked it still shouldnt be a drama, Link can direct you to the original dealer to get the unlock or they will do it in special cases. Its pretty neat to have. If your gearbox has a VSS sensor this would be best to use for the speed input, the FD ABS sensors will be too high in frequency to connect directly to the Fury DI's. Minimum requirements: As you can see, clutch and neutral switch isnt strictly required, clutch switch is def nice to have. Also nice to have a cruise resume switch (this along with the set switch allows you to increase or decrease speed). Since you are out of analog inputs you will have to do all of these switches as seperate digital inputs. FYI, if you could free up an analog input you can get 2 wire "cruise control stalks" from many japanese cars that do all 4 main functions via a single analog input (Cruise on, set, resume, cancel).

I just found the instructions on the T1 kit, it mentions for Motec the Crip will be about 487deg (but it doesnt say if they use rising or falling edge), so try -233 for your trigger offset, I suspect this will be close.

Unfortunately no, although PC Link is basically unchanged at this point, the processor and much other hardware is too different for the G4x firmware to ever be cross compatible.

As I mentioned earlier, the correct test would be to measure by back probing at the ecu plug as that is the only way to eliminate most of the external influences. For instance if you have a bad crimp in your deutsch or ECU plug, or a broken wire in between etc, the test you have done would not pick this up. The ECU is tested to have a tolerance of 3% (@13.2V) on the batt voltage measurement as part of its production inspection so it at least read correctly when it left the factory. If you do the test I suggested above and find yours is out by more than about 0.4V then contact link to get it inspected/repaired/replaced.

For what ecu?