Adamw

Error 72 & 74 suggests you have a wiring problem somewhere. This is causing your E-throttle problems - it is not a "overly sensitive throttle" that is causing your problem. Please start your own thread and attach a log and your tune.

No where in the software does it show trigger voltage, I suspect you are looking at arming threshold which will just report whatever value you have in your arming threshold table. So this doesnot tell you anything about your trigger. You can share a link using google drive, onedrive, dropbox, wetransfer etc. Its not going to run right until that is fixed. I think you need to get someone to get an oscilloscope on it so we can see what is wrong with the trigger signal. Another option would be if you know someone with a Storm or Xtreme that you can plug-in to get a triggerscope. Can you attach or share your tune also.

Assuming you have the 350Z plug in ecu then AV12 is nothing to do with the throttle, it will be in error because the error settings are reversed as mentioned above, it will not effect the way it runs except it will prevent AC from working. The AN Temp 2 fault you have showing will certainly effect how it runs. This likely means you either have a dead air temp sensor or you dont have one at all (they dont have one stock), if this is the case you should have AN Temp 2 turned off. If you have an E-throttle problem I suggest you start your own thread and attach a log and your tune so we can help you fix it properly, disabling error checking on a safety critical function is never a good idea.

You are wrong. As above AV12 is AC pressure. There is no AV13. The TPS sensors are on AV2 & AV4. You shouldnt be setting E-throttle analog input errors to 0 & 5 as that effectively disables most safety features. The reason AV12 needs the errors set to 0&5 is because the sensor is capable of reading over the full scale and it is not a safety or tune critical sensor so error checking is not required.

Start by having a skim through the old PDF manual (attached below), then come back with some more specific questions. The is no standard wiring diagram as many of the inputs and outputs are flexible and can be set up to do many different tasks. But basically the power and ground and relays for ignition/injectors etc should be done as per the power/ground wiring page in the manual. Injectors will be best to wire 3 to a single drive each, then the remaining two to the 4th drive. Are you making a complete new injection loom or are you splicing into a factory loom? The Link G4 "A Loom" still fits the V44 so might be a good starting point if you are considering making a complete loom - Then many of the splices are alreday done for sensor grounds, triggers etc. Are you keeping the distributor? Im not sure if the V44 can do wasted spark on a 5 Cyl but it may be possible. ViPEC Wiring and Installation Manual.pdf

Just create a new channel scalled to km/s (multiply km/h by 0.000278) From the AEM help file:

Make sure the Error low is set to 0 and the error high is set to 5.0, I noticed one of the base maps had those around the wrong way. Not sure what you are on about here, ANV 12 is the air con evaporator pressure sensor, nothing to do with the throttle.

If a tuner password protects the tune, it doesnt "hold you hostage", you can simply load an unprotected map in over the top and do whatever you want. If it still worries you then discuss with your tuner before you give him the job.

How are you measuring this? Do you have an oscilloscope? The ECU will need a minimum of 0.2V to trigger. If you spin the distributor with a cordless drill do you get stable RPM showing in the software?

For the ODO function you have no speed input set, try it as below: For the fuel level, you can try adding some filtering as below, unfortunately it only lets you average over a maximum of 5 seconds which Im not sure will be enough but give it a try. Otherwise you will have to add a resistor/capacitor to the fuel level sensor wire.

V4.10.2 was the last V series software/firmware released, this would be recommended for most users as it is the most bug free.

As I mentioned in my post, that is only an option if the VSS sensor is a hall effect type (the BCM will expect a square wave signal), if it is a VR sensor it wont work as the BCM will expect a AC/Sine wave signal. The ECU can only generate a square wave (The SGI can generate either). I think the R154 sensor is a hall effect but I have never touched one personally.

The dash config should have a .zconfig file extension, im not sure what that file is that you have attached.

I only have one for ITB's. I suggest you just use the Atom or Monsoon base map, copy the 4AGE trigger settings from the help file page: Engine Specific Information > Toyota > Toyota 4A-GE 16V

Ok, if it is an LS7 engine it will not have VVT, sounds like you need to have a closer look to confirm what you actually have. Obviously VVT is not common in a single cam engine as both intake and exhaust lobes will move together. Some of the LS based truck engines did have a form of VVT but I think that was only on the engines that had "displacement on demand" where some cylinders were disabled by holding the valves open during cruise conditions to make it more economical.

The speed signal comes into the ECU from the instrument cluster, the speed signal into the cluster is via multiplex (BEAN) from the BCM. The ECU has no influence in what speed is displayed on the dash. The easiest option would probably be a "speedo corrector" such as a SGI-5E to fudge the signal coming out of the VSS. If the sensor is a hall effect type another option may be to connect the sensor direct to the ECU (instead of to BCM), then send a corrected signal out of the ECU to the BCM wire, but that sounds like more work.

LS7 is a hand built performance engine, dry sump etc, it only came in the Z06 corvette or as a crate engine, none of them had VVT as far as I know. What engine do you actually have? Maybe you have one of the "displacement on demand" truck engines? Can you attach a triggerscope.

Removing a tooth can give a couple of small advantages - the main one being the position of the tooth on the cam is then much less critical so you can move cam timing etc in the future without having to check your cam edge is not going to cross over a crank edge. Another is with a missing tooth crank trigger the engine will keep running if the cam sensor ever fails or becomes disconnected during a race. I dont think the "balance consideration" they mention is significant since the diameter and mass of the tooth is so small. Settings if you remove a tooth (12-1): Settings for the unmodified full 12T:

Assuming you have the later board with the two CAN sockets then the best option would be to keep them on separate buses. This is because you cant assign an OEM CAN stream and the dash CAN stream to the same port in the software. So the Dash only connected direct to one CAN port on the ECU - no termination required as both the ECU and dash have them built-in. The 2nd ECU CAN port just "taps" onto the existing BMW CAN wires somewhere, again no external termination required. If you dont have the later board with the 2 CAN buses then we can still make both work - it will just need to all be set up as custom streams rather than the pre-configured ones. Use the Mini CAN stream to check things are working initially then sing out if anything you need doesnt work, I have a much more complete M3 E46 CAN set up I can give you to run most of it.

Error 16 & 33 are the common errors that pop up when the power supply is either weak or has a lot of inductive noise. The addition of the Error 26 makes me think in this case it is probably more a current supply issue than a noise issue. Make sure that the 12V supply/ground is decent sized wires (18AWG+) and they come from a relay that is preferably connected direct to the battery. If the power supply looks like it is ok size wise then it may be getting upset from some other inductively noisy item connected to the same circuit, in that case you can either add the capacitor as per the quick start guide or move it to a cleaner supply such as direct to the battery.

The power valve is not anything to do with aux 4/5. Aux 4 is the water temp warning light and Aux 5 is the reverse light. Power valve settings are in the "power valve control" menu.

Post a log and your tune.

You would probably get better help if you attach a log and a copy of your tune. Even better if you have an old log from before the changes also.

Im not sure if they do a reset/calibration on power up or not sorry, I have very little info about how this function works. The best I could suggest is set the power valve control settings to some very low RPM when the engine is idling and see what happens.

I can try. PM me when you have the tool and I'll see if I can help.