Adamw

The pattern matches the EJ20 Quad AVCS trigger mode, but there appears to be something wrong with your crank sensor - either it is not a hall sensor, it is wired wrong or doesnt have a pull-up enabled when you done the scope or something. If it is a hall sensor you would expect to see wider "square" teeth, not sharp spikes like your scope shows. Also many of your "crank teeth" only go down to about 2V, they need to go below 1V at least.

What is the part number of your AEM device. There are a few different calibrations for them.

Not quite sure what that means, but this doesnt look like it has been tuned at all. It is basically the Link Evo 1-3 base map but with the fuel table all messed up. It might be better to load the Link base map back in and get it to a tuner. I certainly wouldnt drive it hard like this.

It would be more helpful to see a log, but the first few things that jump out to me as probably wrong in your attached map: MAP sensor is reading wrong, it shows 79KPa while your BAP shows 101KPa. So I suspect you MAP sensor calibration is different to a WRX. Engine kill/ECU hold power is showing as active. It looks like your ignition switch signal is missing from DI5. Fuel master is set to 5ms, this is very small. More typical numbers would be about 9ms for 1000cc injectors or 17ms for 500cc injectors.

The CAN adapter cable from Link is called "CANPCB", some dealers will sell a similar custom CAN adapter that uses more common connectors. Some examples to give you an idea: Link CANPCB: Dealer NZEFI: Ebay Options: https://ebay.us/En3nl4 https://ebay.us/jHEEVY

You have a lot of dwell scatter when RPM increases which is generally a sign the engine position signal from the trigger is not very good. It is hard to say if it is bad enough to cause a misfire but I would expect your spark is jumping around quite a bit. You can do a triggerscope to see if that shows anything wrong but for an engine of this power level you should really be looking at a crank trigger system.

No not really necessary, it is only used for "pre crank prime", you can set it to "ignition on" instead of start position. Doesnt work quite as well since fuel pump isnt primed yet but usually is fine. So it has a COR and a seperate FP relay? Normally the COR is the fuel pump relay. FC just goes to the ECU aux set as fuel pump If you want all 4 cams to work, yes. Make sure you read this page in the help file, the 2GR cam sensors need special wiring: Wiring Information > Input Signal Wiring > Trigger Inputs > Specific Trigger Applications > Toyota 2GR-FE Cam I remember someone posting on here a while ago that had a better idea than me about how the Toyota AC amp works, I think it might have been @cj ? If If it where me I would probably just connect the AC switch and AC clutch direct to the ecu and forget about the complexity of the AC amp. It is best to have the ECU know when AC is working so it can do idle up etc.

Its going lean because of this pink area in your fuel table, I suggest copy the cells from the 35kpa row up into the ones I have highlighted in pink. I would also probably bump the CLL RPM lock out low up to 1500 so it is not turning on & off right around idle. I think I would also change the idle ignition table to something more like this:

Your over-run fuel cut is turning on and off. Set that much higher like 2000-2300RPM or turn it off all together. And increase your idle base position by about 20 so that closed loop is not having to correct so much.

Be aware some guys have reported starting issues with the 4-tec engine and there is no easy fix at present. It works for many but definitely some have issues due to the erratic cranking speed. It was on the list of things to be looked at when I worked there but the engineers have been dedicated to another big project for quite some time and I dont know the current status or if it is any closer. More info in this thread:

Yep, that is just a G1 LEM V5. They are PC tunable but you will need a "serial link" device to connect it to a laptop (still available). Manual is here: http://forums.linkecu.com/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=2524

There are 8 analog inputs and one speed sensor input on the dash you can use and they can be broadcast back to the ecu over CAN for some functions. For instance you could possibly use the dash analog inputs for many of the switch type functions such as cruise control/launch/antilag switch etc. You could use the dash speed input as the non driven wheel speed, and you could use a single VSS gearbox sensor connected directly to the ecu for driven wheel speed. You also need a brake input and preferably clutch for cruise control - they could probably be done through the dash. Also there are cruise control "stalks" that give you all 4 cruise switches through a single analog input, so that might save some inputs. The AEM device could be used but mostly only for the same limited functions as the dash inputs. It only has 2 VR speed sensor inputs.

I have no info on any signal from the steering so I cant help you with that. As I said in my earlier message to you, you can generally compensate for power steering load by running relatively retarded ignition timing at normal idle, then use aggressive idle ignition control to look after the power steering loads.

I dont know this engine/platform at all, but assuming 4 cyl, no VVT, 36-2 on crank and single sync on cam and nothing else special such as CAN bus or K-line then I dont see any issues. Is it E-throttle? If so, check the motor/TPS is normal analog signals, not CAN.

Your idle valve position looks fine in your log. The red/orange colours on run times are user configurable warnings, if you havent set them up to something suitable then you can ignore them. I dont really see much of a problem in your log when AC turns on it seems fairly stable? Where in the log is this "AC problem"? Also, your injector PW is still commanding 0.3ms so you havent set the 0.45 minimum PW that I told you to do a couple of days ago. Why are you running such large injectors and high pressure for a petrol based fuel? 2500cc is enough fuel for about 1800HP @ 85%DC? Seems a bit optimistic if you want it to idle nice and AC to work as well...

The Link looms use a Japanese standard thin wall automotive wire known as "AVSS". It has a higher temp rating (120°C) than common PVC insulated wire. Most of the wires are 0.56mm2 from memory except for the two main grounds and the main red 14V wire, these are 0.75 or 0.85mm2 (sorry I cant find my old spec sheet). If you are in USA, a very similar alternative would be 20AWG TXL for the small ones and 18AWG TXL for the power/gnds.

Ok, triggerscope shows your arming thresholds are set pretty well, it should sync pretty quickly ( 1 crank turn max) with that. That sounds a bit marginal to me. Most multimeters have quite a bit of averaging/filtering so you wont see relatively short spikes. It is possibly dropping lower than 9.5V. With your temporary ground on pin 27 so it doesnt drop out, you could set up ECU logging to run all the time and set it to log batt voltage at say 50Hz. Turn off ign or fuel so you can log it cranking for say a good 5 seconds and that should give us a good idea what the voltage really drops to during cranking. Is the power system stock in this car - battery hasnt been moved to the trunk or something?

As many people have said already, your dealer has given you the wrong code, most likely he has included the zero even though the the unlock page specifically says donot include the zero an gives an example.

It looks like the dealer has given you 2 codes there, one for a HC92 ecu and one for a storm but in your screenshot of the error you have used the storm code in the HC92? Shouldn’t you be using the code that starts with C36?

Added later: Forgot to mention, the best low cost crimper that will do a decent job on them is the 1026 CT

I dont know sorry, I have no info on that stream. I could sniff my test ecu but I dont know how or if that would help you. Unless someone can sniff your car and document exactly what is missing, what each missing message does and how it is all formatted etc, there is no easy way to help you. You cant just stab in the dark and copy paste bits of different CAN streams together to try until you have success as there is so much data moving around and so many different combinations of how it could be layed out you would be there for 20 years. You might have to buy a basic sniffing tool and learn how to use it to get much further.

It is not assigned in any of my basemaps. But in any case it not used for anything in the Link base map. It can in fact be used for MAF if the user really wants to, but there is no calibration curve for it in the software and the Link base map is set up to use MAP instead so it would be a big job. In many cases the user will remove the MAF and use the input for something else like fuel pressure or whatever.

In the file I gave you the water temp light should be controlled by Virtual aux 5 and the CE light is virtual aux 8. If you temporarily set these two outputs to "test (on)" does anything change? The oil lamp is controlled by Virtual aux 6, on my map this was linked to the oil pressure switch on DI1. The OEM bmw oil level sensor will not work.

Need to know more about the signal from the transmission. It would be very uncommon to have an "analog signal". Generally older basic trans from the '90's will just be a simple on/off digital signal, but in later trans there are many other variations like frequency based or some sort of coded digital signal or CAN or multiplex/BEAN. These newer trans usually send the not just a torque reduction request but will also tell the ecu how much to reduce it by as well as timing the shift based on feedback from the ecu. So if you confirm how yours works I will advise if there is anyway work with it.

The triggers etc are unknown. Even if you could run the engine , it will be very difficult to get everything working together in this boat, generally in the seadoo's there is lots of CAN bus interaction with the dash and reversing/braking control etc.