Adamw

I cant see it working well to be honest since the VE changes so much when the turbos switch over you are going to have a hard time keeping AFR under control with some other device controlling the turbos. If you really wanted to do it then probably a more straight forward option than trying to piggyback with the plug-in ecu would be the Kurofune, this uses the HKS F-Con adapter loom so plugs in piggy back fashion with the factory ecu remaining in place, kurofune will take over fuel and ignition control.

Of course it will go lean on overrun, this is overrun fuel cut. Dont worry about what the lambda does when there is no combustion.

It looks like your crank wheel has a damaged tooth. It has the normal 2 missing tooth gap where it is meant to, then another single missing tooth about 180° opposite that it shouldnt have. You will need to replace the wheel.

I think with engine temps of 10°C and 94% ethanol you are going to struggle with cold start and there will be little you can do from a tune perspective to help. The vapour pressure of straight ethanol is very low so there will barely be any vapor in the port at that temp no matter how much fuel you dump in, it will just remain as liquid. Somewhere below around 10°C there is not enough vapor produced to support combustion. This is the reason why pump E85 gets reduced to E60-E70 in winter so there is a little more of the volitile solvents available to create some vapor in the port. In regions like Brazil etc where they predominantly use straight ethanol it is common to use heated injectors to get around the problem.

This is because you didnt do this: I have attached a new version of your tune with the idle ign table fixed up and a few changes to the main idle table around the idle area. You can use the compare function if you want to see what I changed. Your fuel map still looks like quite a mess around idle area and really needs to be fixed. base_map.5.pclr

With multi-point group the wiring is really no longer relevent as the injection event is no longer timed to the intake valve event, so you can pair them up in 3 groups of 2 or 2 groups of 3, will work fine either way.

All of the plug-in ECU's only have 6 injector drives. Although there are pins on the processor for the inj 7 & 8 functions, there is in fact no drivers or other conditioning electronics for inj 7/8 on the board. Only on specific applications that need more IO or some other special reason for more injector drives then drives for inj 7/8 will be added to the separate adapter board for that application. Since Link dont currently make a plug-in ecu for a car with more than 6 cylinders in most cases they are not needed. Yes that would be fine. Although most people in a performance application wouldnt even want to keep the narrowband sensors anyhow. If you are fitting a wideband that can do anything the narrowband could do and doesnt need a heater control aux.

Most of the ones I'm aware of are designed to be connected directly to the analog 0-5V barrel position sensor on the gearbox. You could use a GP PWM aux output with a small extra circuit to generate a 0-5V output to drive one of these types (it would be a bit of messing around to get it all calibrated). Or, this CAN bus one looks like it would work: https://www.ecumaster.com/products/digital-gear-indicator/

I would say your MAP sensor is dying. When it starts to go lean the MAP is only reading 6KPa which is near impossible (it shows 0 in some areas) and at the end after it stalls the MAP is 74 when the BAP is 92. MAP and BAP should read the same when engine is off.

Yes, that will likely be your problem if the Evo 6 engine still has the stock Evo 6 triggers. Just change the triggermode to Evo1-6 and do a store. You will want to check the base timing once its running but it should be close enough to run with the default settings.

I cant see an obvious reason for the stall. It appears to be fuel related as from about 19:19 it starts to go lean so the CLL reacts and winds in more fuel, it has added about 15% by the end but it is still showing lean. But as you say the fuel pressure was still showing ok and your inj PW shows the ECU is still commanding fuel so its a bit of a head scratcher and im not really sure of the cause. Temps were stable so I think you can rule out temp compensations. One thing that is not helping is the 300RPM deadband on your idle speed control settings. This means the throttle doesnt open to try to catch the dropping RPM until falls 300RPM below target, it is probably too far gone by then. A more typical deadband would be about 50RPM. How confident are you the Lambda's are reading correct - are you seeing similar numbers on the guage as you do in PC link? They may also get quite a bit of reversion at idle due to their proximity to the open end and give a false reading causing the CLL to over do things. If it where me I would probably turn CLL off at idle then give it 10% more and 10% less fuel to see if it makes any difference.

Inj 7 & 8 and Ign 8 are not connected on this ECU.

It is not possible. The Altezza ECU that this thread was about has a seperate microcontroller and transceivers fitted inside to handle the complex BEAN (multiplex) comms. The ECU sends and receives all the required information to/from the BEAN micro over CAN bus, the micro handles all comms with the chassis.

Power supply is all built in, you dont need anything else, just connect the Aux 9 & 10 pins direct to the TB motor +/-.

It sounds like you are missing some of the basic fundamentals on how a stepper motor works so I will give a quick explanation. Firstly you must realise there is no position feedback to the ECU from a idle stepper, the only way the ECU can have any idea where the stepper motor is, is by keeping a tally of how many "steps" it has sent it forward and back since it done the last "home reset" (usually after power off). So If you tell it to move 600 steps, but the valve actually hits the mechanical stop or bottoms out after 100 steps - there is no way for the ECU to know this - it just keeps sending the 500 steps and assumes the motor is moving. Once you have done this the actual valve position no longer matches where the ECU believes it to be, so next time you go back in the other direction you will get completely different numbers for the same position. So this is your main problem - For the Evo stepper motors I think the maximum step count they can mechanically move is about 140 - so you never want to command more than this. Your max clamp should be set around here or less. Secondly, you have got your logic back to front judging by this statement: "if im targeting 50 steps to make 950 rpm and i turn it up to 150 steps to make 2000 rpm". The actual step number is "steps from fully open", so you should have a smaller number to raise RPM, and a larger number to reduce RPM. If yours doesnt work this way then you may have the reverse/normal direction setting wrong. After you turn off the ignition the ECU does a stepper reset (winds it fully open, and zeros the step count, then moves back into position ready for the next start up), so you need to give it a little time to do this after you turn the ignition off - before you turn it on again. Say 5 seconds or so should do. I also suggest you update to the lastest firmware as there was a bug that affected stepper reset under some conditions a little while back.

First you will want to check the ECU you have is capable of DBW, I think on the WRX7+ ecu DBW functionality was added around PCB version V1.5 (if it is less than 2 years old you should be fine). You have to open up the case and look on the bottom (larger) PCB for this revision number as per pic below. As for wiring it the easiest option is to use a Link expansion loom. The 2nd expansion port has all the connections you need. The throttle motor gets connected directly to Aux 9 & 10. Then there are 4 spare analog inputs on the same connector - use any 2 for the two TPS sensors and any two for the two pedal position sensors. You can either use the 5V and sensor gnd on the expansion connector for the new sensors - or you can use the existing 5V and gnd that is already at your cable throttle body TPS for the TPS and use the 5V on the expansion connector just for the pedal. I believe the V10 pedals bolts straight in but I have no idea what throttle bodies are easy. As for the ECU compatibility you can use pretty much anything, but if you can find one of the ones that is listed in the help file then you at least have some pretty good PID settings and pinouts etc to start from. Wiring Information > Output Wiring > E-Throttle > Specific E-Throttle Applications >

You have attached a log, not the map. When you say "break up" what do you mean - a misfire under load? Does it run clean at lower boost? What coils have you fitted? What ECU/car is it? Are the new coils still wired wasted spark? You seem to be running a lot of advance for the boost it is seeing - What fuel is being used?

Share a link to the log using dropbox/google drive/onedrive etc.

Your triggerscope shows nothing but your log looks ok. There is nothing obviously missing in the log. Have you checked there is spark and fuel? Can you attach the tune file also.

So is the trigger mode set to Subaru V1-6 now? Can you attach a log of it cranking?

There is a WRX V1&2 base map in PC Link, although I wouldnt expect your 2.5 map to be that far away that it wont run. Have you changed trigger settings etc?

The ECU gets its main power from Pin 54 whereas the FET is powered by pin 56 which comes via the ignition switch, so that wasnt a completely valid test but still rules out some stuff (I think the momentary drop to 10V in the log would be considered quite acceptable). For instance if there was a dirty contact in the ignition switch that could mean pin 56 gets less voltage than pin 54. I'll ask @Simon to give his thoughts tomorrow. Where abouts are you in the world?

The CAN is all correct. Is the fuel level voltage channel showing anything? How does this device convert the fuel level sensor resistance to a voltage? Does it have a pull-up resistor built-in? If you put a multimeter on the fuel level sensor pin is there any voltage there?

As a quick test you could unplug the wire off the RH Inlet cam and plug it onto the RH exhaust cam. If DI 2 still shows no signal then you can suspect your DI 2 wiring. If DI2 then does show a signal you can suspect the RH Inlet sensor is dead.

I think you are are mixing the S50 and S54 wiring info. The picture at the top of the page is for the S50. I dont know the colours of the factory wiring but the S54 Vanos solenoid should be wired as follows: Pin 1 Inlet retard Aux 1 Pin 2 Ignition Switched +12V Pin 3 Inlet advance Aux 2 Pin 4 Exhaust retard Aux 3 Pin 5 Ign Switched +12V Pin 6 Exhaust advance Aux 4. Diodes must be removed as per the help file.