Adamw

I thought there the Vi-PEC Polaris ecu was only for the rmk800? I think I have a base map for the 800 but it’s on my pc at home and I’m overseas for a couple of weeks. You can try emailing [email protected] but I think the techs are on holiday there at the moment too.

I don’t have an ecu with me to test but from memory when you download the ecu log, it is not deleted unless you choose to. So if you didn’t click the delete option then it is likely still in there and can be downloaded again.

If it needs more fuel, increase the master fuel setting if you are using traditional fuel mode or if using modelled then set the injector flow rate lower. The best option to share files is to share it using google drive, OneDrive, Dropbox or similar. What solved your trigger issue in the end?

Ok, trigger 2 voltage is quite low so set trigger 2 arming threshold to 0.2v @ 0rpm and 0.5v @ 1000rpm. It would be strongly suggested to remove one tooth from the dizzy for the most robust triggering but it may run with the duratec mode. You will need to check trigger offset with a timing light.

I’m at Disneyland in Hong Kong, didn’t think I’d need the sim today. Lol.

He should see better than 25Hz though shouldn’t he? I have the pc logger running in the background the whole day when I’m tuning with all parameters logged and I normally see about 55Hz. It might drop to 50 when I’m doing a store. My laptop is nothing special. I know Nigel has quite a bit going on in his tune, would the ecu processor load have any influence on PC link speed?

You have to click it while the engine is cranking and then keep it cranking for a few seconds until the waveform is drawn across the screen.

As CJ says it is most likely a wiring problem based on the dash lights. Quickest way to confirm the ecu is ok is to remove it from the car and power it up on the bench with a couple of test leads. Easiest way to power it up is to find the big barrel shaped tvs diode near the main header, clip +12v to the leg on the striped end and clip ground onto the other end. You will see the led light come on if all ok. The marks on the mosfets in your picture are just air bubbles or runs in the conformal coating.

Your trigger scope shows no signal at all, that is just noise you see there. Did you click the capture button while the engine was cranking?

There is no easy way to create the transient timer filter that I can think of at present since tp delta is not available for use as a virtual aux condition. The only work around I can think of that I’ve used in the past for odd tricks is if you have an ecu with 2 CAN ports you can connect them together, send tp delta out of can 1 and receive it into can 2 as a CAN AN V then use that for your virtual aux.

There is no such map that I remember? Where do you see it and what is the file named?

Yep your share worked. I have never used that parameter before and there is nothing in your log to gauge its accuracy against so I can’t confidently tell if it is right or wrong. However, since you only have one wideband connected, you should be using/logging the parameter named “Lambda 1”.

Not that I know of.

Share the log using Dropbox, OneDrive, google drive, etc. Share the tune also.

It is just a resistor, polarity doesn’t matter. You can connect either wire to either pin.

The spikes in dwell are where there is a trigger error (ecu has received a signal it didn’t expect) so it has lost engine position. Was your trigger scope taken at the rpm that it misfires at? Those wider teeth aren’t normal although it looks like the falling edge that the ecu uses is still ok in this particular capture. I would have jumped at it being a dying crank sensor first if you hadn’t said you had changed it already. Does it have an aftermarket flywheel? I’ve seen those cause trigger issues on vq35’s a couple of times in the past.

I only have good solid info for the E36 with M50TUB25, in that car at least the manual/auto pinout is the same and the Link ECU works in either. As mentioned in my earlier post all wiring diagrams I can find for a E34 525 show the M3.1 pinout so I dont know what your car has.

That only tells you the factory ECU is getting a signal on whatever pins it was wired for, it doesnot confirm that there is a signal on the correct pins 16/17/43 that the Link E36 ecu is expecting.

You would really want someone that is reasonably confident with soldering/desoldering but apart from that it is fairly simple - just 5 pins to desolder then resolder. Of course the G4+ or G4X will give you quite a bit more functionality and give you some future proofing but there will also be quite a bit more cost involved than the NZD$130 to upgrade the MAP sensor.

Dont be scared to try the master at 25 or 30.

The M50TU crank sensor is a VR (reluctor) it is not powered, it generates its own voltage. The OEM ecu may have a very weak pull-up which may give you the false 5V reading but I dont expect to see any voltage at the crank sensor plug with the Link ECU. The cam sensor is a hall effect, so if you check at this connector you should have 12V on one pin, 5 V on one and gnd on the 3rd pin.. What you should be testing is that there is continuity from your crank sensor to pin 16 and pin 43. And the cam sensor should have continuity to pin 17 and ground. All ECU's are tested for over 24hrs at very high and very low temperatures with all input and outputs monitored before shipping, it would be unlikely that it died on the way to you. The triggerscope hardware is quite independent from the rest of the trigger circuit in the ECU so the fact that two separate systems (the triggerscope and the ECU trigger runtimes) say there is no trigger signal suggests there really is no trigger signal...

Both values are applied live as the operating point moves.

I think you might want to try a jumper battery, I dont see too much else wrong but it is cranking fairly slow and the batt voltage drops to 9V during cranking so thats not going to make it easy to start when it is not tuned. Also If you dont have an IAT sensor connected you should turn off AN Temp 3 for now so it isnt adding a big correction.

So did you try adjusting the master fuel? Your lambda goes lean before it stalls, this means either the master fuel is not large enough or you have some other fuel supply problem such as no fuel pressure.

Not sure what you are trying to say/ask, but yes 400Kpa is 4 Bar. So this would be good for about 3bar (~44psi) boost. This is what the current G4+ plug-ins and Monsoon ecus have.