Adamw

Sensor ground for pin 2 is the most correct, but either way works fine with the VAG coils, they dont seem to be sensitive on the trigger threshold. With some coils (IGN1A is one example) the trigger threshold is quite low, around 0.5V, so if you ground these coils trigger circuit to the engine instead of sensor ground and there is a small ground offset between ecu and engine then you can get sparks occurring at unexpected random times.

You will notice the trigger error counter counts up in the two places where the RPM limit is activated. The PC logging rate isnt always fast enough to capture a small quick spike in RPM but what happens is the trigger error causes a spike in RPM above the limiter value so the limiter is activated. You will also notice in ECU statistic that max engine RPM is recorded as 9200. So you have a trigger problem. Start by doing a triggerscope at idle and say 5000RPM and attach them here.

Correct, the tuner can load a new map in himself and be completely free to do whatever he wants with it. You can even save the old password protected map and load it back in at a later date if you ever wanted to put it back to how it was.

Ok, the first thought I have is throttle position is not tracking target well, it is quite slow. Try increaseing your E-throttle proportional gain from the current 6.0 to 8 (drop back to 7 if it becomes unstable) and and try increaseing the integral to 0.1 or 0.15. I think I would also remove 0.5% from these cells in the idle base pos table to make it look like this: Then do another log. It will likely still need a few other changes.

Nope sounds good.

Yes it is worth a try, last time I talked to the main firmware engineer about a similar request he said usually it is not a big job to add a predefined stream if he has good info. It may also be worth trying the existing BA Falcon CAN stream too as the Australian fords possibly share a similar CAN protocol.

Yes, I believe this is a bug, I remember reporting it some time ago and the engineers took a look but couldnt reproduce it. I suggest you report it to Link tech support, the more people that pass on info the better the chance of it getting more attention.

You could do PWM but solid state relays that are capable of PWM of high current fans can get pricey. How about just staggering them so one turns on say 4deg later than the first or similar?

I would suggest setting the sync tooth to "1" in this case. The ecu will then look at the exhaust cam level just after the missing teeth go past the sensor on the crank. This is a nice place to do the sync test as it is well away from any edge on the cam even when the cam is fully advanced (cam scope trace will move towards the left as the cam advances). Im pretty sure it will also sync the fastest with this set to 1 as it will have all the info it needs to sync sooner.

Yeah, not possible. All the pre-configured VVT modes need to see the correct tooth count and pattern on the cams. The User defined mode needs a minimum of two teeth. The work around above is really the only option I can come up with. They can still both be wired, you just need to change the cam angle test mode setting to see the 2nd cam.

The distributor sensor is wired incorrect polarity, you need to swap the +/- wires. Im not sure if that would be enough to cause your offset to be wrong but start by fixing that first.

I suspect you may find you still have an intermittent issue. They can be sensitive if connected to a circuit in the car that has significant inductive noise, for instance the same relay as the idle solenoid or VVT. The usual symptom of this problem is error 16, 33 and or 34 so Im suspicious that may be what you are seeing. I have never had any drama due to lack of exhaust heat - I regularly use them in a tailpipe sniffer on the dyno etc. As Ducie54 suggested, connected direct to the battery if possible, if not then the 22uF cap as shown in the quick start guide will usually fix it.

Its already available in the latest PC Link G4X

The reason is typically only users with VVT want to know cam position, a single tooth on the cam doesnot give regular enough updates on cam position for acceptable VVT control so the user defined VVT mode needs a minimum of two teeth to work. Even two teeth is borderline and you need to slow the cam control down a lot. I did just think of one way you could display or log cam position - however you will only be able to display one cam at a time. Assuming the inlet cam is connected to trigger 2, then set trigger 2 VVT cam type to "LH inlet". Connect the ex cam to any DI 1-4, set it to LH ex. Then go to VVT set up, set it to user defined mode, then set "cam angle test" to whichever cam you want to look at, set test pulse count to 1. You can then view/log the parameter "Cam Angle #1".

Just a normal drive with some of these idle problems captured will do.

There are a couple of settings that look a bit odd to me but I would really want to see a log file before suggesting any changes.

The G4 firmware would give you a little more flexability in that is does have "virtual auxes" that you may be able to use. You can use a virtual aux to turn on/off something based on a set of conditions. Have a play with a G4 base map and you will see how it works. As an example if you had a spare analog input, then you could connect a rotary switch to that and then set up a couple of virtual auxes to enable when the switch is in different positions. So for instance you could have position 1 is antilag on, position 2 is high boost map or whatever.

The G4+ ECU's are quite flexible with CAN inputs and outputs but you will probably run into some limitations to achieve full OEM integration. In my experience you can usually get most of the basics working acceptably. Some common CAN stuff that may catch you out in a modern car; things like "heart beat" type counters that increment with each message send, odometer ticks that count up after a certain distance is covered, checksums or other equations for immobilizers or other security features. Be aware you can only send 6 unique CAN ID's port CAN port so this is sometimes a limitation also.

Not quite sure what you are asking for... Here is the section about removal of the diodes:

It seems a bit unusual to drop to 11.9V just due to low RPM? or is it a tiny battery? Even if the alternator was not charging I would expect a normal car battery to hold ~12.7V for some time. There are some other areas towards the end of the log where batt voltage spikes low - admittedly at slightly lower RPM than normal idle but it seems a bit odd to me. Yeah, I think that is just due to logging/aliasing/sample rate affects, if I plot them on a similar scale they seem to follow a similar trend mostly within about two hundredths of a volt. Still, the only logical explanation that I can fit to what you are seeing is a bad connection or a failing TPS.

In windows device manager is there a Link ECU showing under the section Ports - COM & LPT? Is the ecu powered up - does the car run?

You wont be able to measure cam position if you only have a single tooth on the cam. What do you need to see cam position for? They arent variable in the F20C are they?

If the wiring is correct then if you set aux 8 to "test PWM" and set the frequency to 10Hz -20Hz you show here it clicking fast. If you dont hear it click then you have something wrong with the wiring. Pin 25 is correct.

That would be an option, or an AEM style disc if they are available for the CA18.

Does it only do it if you turn on a transmit stream that has no frames/parameters set up already on the streams tab, or does it happen regardless? I kind of got something like you explain but only if I enable a "empty" stream.