Adamw

The best point is whatever the main ECU ground is connected to, usually this is the engine block somewhere.

Provided you are sure the injectors are stock, then that engine is not making any power. In your dyno ramp log the injectors are only at 44% duty cycle at 6300RPM and WOT. That is only enough fuel for about 90HP. B18C are usually around double that and the injector DC is usually around 80% at WOT on a stock engine. Are you sure the high cam is actually working?

No. The 1uF "suppressor" on the main 12V supply is good to have (just one for each bank of coils), but no need for the cap on the signal wire.

Can you attach the actual tune and a log of it cranking.

Sorry I dont have a record for that serial number. However, all of the other serial numbers I have either side of that one are Vipec plug-in boards so I suspect that one is most likely a Vipec too. Try the VTS software first - it will tell you to use the correct manufacturers software when you try to connect if it is not.

It doesnt appear to have a separate analog ground - so its analog output must reference the main power ground. You cant connect this to sensor ground as it is high current and may upset other sensors, so the best option will be to ground the main ground to the engine block or cyl head.

You have a either very old G4 or possibly a very old Vipec V series, cant tell without the serial number. Try this: http://www.linkecu.com/pclink/PCLink V4.4.3 Setup.exe If that doesnt work then try this old Vipec version: https://1drv.ms/u/s!AiYbYlZQuRHPmyNK85RxGVdTquXu?e=gzwd9V

Have you put a timing light on it to confirm spark is roughly close to where it should be? Have you tried adding or subtracting 360 from the offset?

Ok that is a bit of an odd one. The alloytec trigger mode that our L15 base map uses may work - will depend on the phasing between crank and cam. Otherwise if that doesnt then there are a couple of other options that should. Are you getting realistic and stable RPM when cranking? Any trigger errors when cranking? Have we got spark?

Please attach the tune and a log of it cranking. To confirm the trigger pattern can you pull the crank and cam sensors out and have someone slowly turn the engine by hand while you count how many teeth you see down the holes. From google images it looks like it may have 12 or 12+1 on the crank and 4 on the cam but I cant find any good clear pics. Need to confirm if the cam teeth are all the same size/spacing and whether crank is 12 evenly spaced like a F20 or 12+1 extra like a K20.

You need to disconnect inj 7. DI ign sw should be ok to stay connected.

That sounds odd? An air temp sensor on the head? I would turn that one off and just leave the one in the throttle body on/working. Dont forget to do a store after you change it. Does your Throttle position sensor work? There is a fault code in the pic above saying it is above the error value.

It should look like this.

Where is the LC2 ground connected? Does the ECT temp change in PC link or just on the dash?

It doesnt look too unusual to me. At low RPM many engines will have a better VE at smaller throttle openings than WOT. It looks like it has only been tuned to about 4600RPM so your not even on the high cam yet.

The best option I can come up with is below. Forget about the IC spray function, we will instead use a GP timer to achieve the same thing. So set up VA 1, 2 & 8 like below, your Inj 7, Ign 8 & DI2/DI7 setup will all remain the same as they are above. The "Timer 1 >" setting on VA2 is the "on time", the "timer 1>" setting on VA8 is the "period". So examplle below has 3 second period and 50%DC (1.5sec).

To load a tune is pretty easy, get connected to the ECU first (green online indicator top right of screen), then go to >file>open. Traction control is a very advanced function so you shouldnt touch it until you have an in depth understanding of that type of function.

The IC spray status will just show "on" all the time that the activation conditions have been met, the on/off duty cycle actually gets applied to the output afterwards. So it will work if Inj 7 is set to IC spray, but is not going to work with a virtual aux status.

It cant spark until the trigger has synced so it knows which coil to start dwelling (Sync is usually the point where the RPM jumps up so dwell should jump up at about the same point). You dont need sync for fuel to be injected so this should happen earlier. The first crank enrich should happen as soon as it sees the first few crank teeth - so the cold log shows the expected behavior. 1.1 seconds would be a fairly typical sync time (up to 2 crank revolutions). The PC logging has a low priority at start up so I suspect the point where the PW jumps up in the hot log probably isnt very reliable. Depending on the trigger sensors you may get some improvement by dropping the arming threshold so it detects teeth at lower speeds.

Ok so now set aux 2 back to speedo out, then in the speedo out settings, adjust the multi until you speedo reads the correct speed. Offset would usually be zero.

Leave the eccs relay there. Pin 16 is what turns the eccs relay on - so the new relay pin 87 needs to ground pin 16 to turn it on.

Can you tell me what you are trying to do? What temp sensor are you using? What input is it connected to? What temperature does it need to read to?

That grey wire on pin 36 probably is in the engine bay somewhere not connected to anything. But it wont be easy to find, it will be hidden under the covering. It will be easier to depin it and swap to your AFM wire.

You need to set it up as a "GP Temp" input, not "GP Analog". Also you might just be viewing the wrong parameter. ie. if I have gearbox temp sensor connected to AN Volt 3 and assigned to GP Temp 1, then to view temperature I need to look at the parameter "GP Temperature 1 - Gearbox Temp", if I look at "Analog 3 - Gearbox temp", this will be the raw voltage.

What does the runtime how as the voltage on AN Volt 5? It looks like it is reading correct if your white wire is outputting 5V. With the sensor unplugged does it show 1.00Lambda or 2.35V?