Adamw

You've either got a bad ground or the CAS is dead. The voltage level of the signals should step from about 0V to ~4V, yours is sitting around 1.7V instead of zero.

Yeah, it also captures the DI's and an AN Volt for MAP sensor sync and a lot more diagnostics info too which will make our life easier. Even in the G4+ you could save as log though. Yep, I think you're probably right on that one. I can see it has a pull-up added to AN Volt 6 on this ecu so I would say most likely that it switches to ground when PS is active. Please confirm when you have it running and I will get the base map corrected if it is wrong. Just go to the TGV menu (aux outputs) and set bank 1 and bank 2 source to none should fix that. Set the PWM output to none while you are there. This should be fixed if you update to the latest firmware. ECU being locked will prevent the triggers working (I think, havent actually tried in the g4X myself), but most other stuff should work. I suspect the VVT signal inactive is because of the lock but none of the VVT will work until it is running anyway. Fuel pressure will only work if you have fitted a fuel pressure sensor. Engine will need to be running.

The first thing to do would be disconnect that aux to see if the problem goes away.

I dont see much wrong there, but those crimps on the DTM sockets do look a little dodgy in the pic. Can you unplug the white CAN plug from the ECU board and measure resistance from the pins in the white plug up to the white/green pins on the CAN lambda where I have marked in pink below. So the Red/orange wires go straight to battery now and the sensor is getting hot? Also, can you tell me what the revision number on the bottom board is, printed down near the MAP sensor I think

Can you attach the tune and do a triggerscope when its cranking. How to triggerscope: https://1drv.ms/v/s!AiYbYlZQuRHPmidU5V2CmTcv6t2y?e=UlmSwU

Your photo doesnt really show any of the relavent parts, but in that first picture it almost looks like white is connected to green on the DTM4? Can you attach your tune also.

What do you mean by "i was able to get the AIM to transmit", it shouldnt be transmitting anything? Is the ECU on the latest firmware? The AIM stream was only added around V5.6.6 from memory.

Yeah that error was noticed just a couple of weeks ago by someone else on here, it will be fixed in the next update.

yes you can use almost any sensor you like. It would be suggested to stick with something from a common car so that the calibration can be found easily.

For the subaru example the Link ECU may take up to 720deg to sync, the factory ECU may have done something more sophisticated with the extra missing teeth which would allow it to sync in wasted spark mode within 180deg. For the honda with no missing teeth the link should sync within the same amount of time as the factory ecu as there are no special tricks they can do with that basic trigger pattern. So for the honda, most likely a tune issue, for the subaru it will possibly never be as good as the factory startup.

This is the problem, despite the name it is not really suitable for CAN only dashes - it was for the old displaylink dash which used both serial and CAN. It has the two serial pins inside so that will upset the laptop comms. The easiest fix it to plug it in to the CAN2/OBD socket which doesnt have serial pins so it will work fine as you have found.

Both A21 & A22 are connected to Ign 1, you can use either one, just ensure there is nothing connected to the other one. Obvviously Ign 1 is working if the car was running on a distributor prior to changing to COP.

That ecu in the pic is quite old, maybe 6 years or so old, well before CAN lambda was released. Check that it is on recent firmware as CAN lambda was only introduced around version 5.6.1 from memory. Can you also give us a closer pic of which pins the CAN H/L is connected to.

Click in the top left corner where I have marked pink in the pic below, this will select the whole table so you will have a blue box around the whole lot. Then hit enter so the "enter new value" box pops up. Delete the equals (=) sign and type in "-3" like my pic below shows and hit enter, this will subtract 3 off every cell, that will probably do it. For the fueling issue you are really going to need a tuner involved, it will need a wideband etc connected.

The ecu is is fully configurable so you can send whatever you like. Fuel level is not in the default generic dash stream. Is the CAN configurable on the powertune dash though?

correct. And in the DI settings, turn on the pull-up.

Not all android head units will work as some are very customised and locked down, but most of the cheaper ones should. You will need one that has a USB host or USB OTG port on the back. You will need one that allows you to install and run 3rd party apps from the play store.

The E-throttle target and idle base position dont look quite right, generally you need most of the idle throttle to come from the main table , then the idle base position table is mostly just for the extra air you need during warmup. The 150RPM idle deadband is a bit extreme, usually 40RPM works well for DBW. You've got no e-throttle relay assigned so that is why you are stuck running in set-up mode - be aware you have no safeties running like this. You dont have any idle ignition control which isnt going to help things. I suggest you update to the latest firmware too. If you attach a log of some of these problems I can help with some changes.

Do you have the latest firmware in the dash and and is it set up to receive the Link CAN? Have you set up the correct CAN port in the ECU to transmit the generic dash stream on ID 1000?

Why dont you just tune it to give it the correct amount of fuel? You can see in the log your differential fuel pressure is well controlled so there are no problems with the fuel system. Do you actually trust your wideband? There are not many widebands that can read down to 0.575 lambda and the are not many engines that would actually run at that. I would be quite suspicious of that.

The reset at key off procedure is to step the valve fully open, then back closed a fixed value, from memory it is 50 steps closed. When the ignition is switched on again for the next start up then it moves to the correct base position for the current temperature minus the start up step. Set to open loop and put a really large number in the base position table - say 700. Make sure the max clamp is above this value. Need to see a log of the oscillation really, usually stepper motors are too slow to be the sole cause of an oscillation so you may have something else fighting you.

The 5V code probably suggests they shorted something when they were messing around but it doesnt appear to have harmed anything from what we can see in the log. Everything seems to be reading correctly and I dont see any obvious issues. The boost cut looks like it is just overshooting a bit, it probably just needs a bit of duty cycle taken out of the wastegate table to sort that - maybe temperature/environmental related. Is it possible it now has higher fuel pressure than it did before the fix?

The intent for realdash support with the G4X is via CAN bus as realdash now support a couple of different low cost CAN bus adapters and it will give the user much more ability to customise what they send to the dash compared to the old fixed serial stream. I wanted to test the system myself and set up some example templates for users before I announced it as the recommended route. However, the recommended CAN adapter that I ordered from China seems to be caught up or lost in all the corona virus delays so I dont know how long it will be before I get a chance to do that. If you look at the last couple of posts in the realdash thread in the G4+ forum you will see another user there has the CAN bus option working. You will also find a .xml configuration there from me from the Link Dash2pro preconfigured stream if you want to try it yourself. More info on the adapters here: http://realdash.net/manuals/supported_can_lin_analyzers.php I was told the Seeedstudio one was prefered, it runs around USD$25.

For a CAN lambda you will need a different cable, you need a CANPCB and the mating plug CANF. Something like this:

The M50B25 engine doesnt have vanos. Only the M50B25TU has vanos. The B25TU vanos is very simple just on/off control like similar to Honda VTEC. You can look at the setup in the E36 plug-in basemap, Aux ouput #3, it just turns on at 2500RPM, and turns off at 4500RPM.