Adamw

Map attached. I converted this from an xtreme file so you will see a few errors if you open it up offline (like BAP etc) but it will all come right once loaded into a Monsoon. LQ4 Monsoon Start up.pclr

In the lambda 1 settings you set the control to whichever analog input you have the wideband connected to. Set the calibration to linear cal 1,2 or 3. Then in the Linear cal set up the calibration values from the manufacturers datasheet. The numbers in the cal below are what most of the older AEM's use but you need to confirm yourself as there are a few different ones.

Yes, since it only has one ground wire and it is a low current device it would be best to connect this to ECU sensor ground. Set up would look something like this:

They should be near 12V when off, and when in test mode you should see a short 2ms drop to 0V, 10 times per second.

As for trigger offset I would expect most to be quite similar but a manufacturing tolerance of about +/-4 deg is pretty average in my experience. If you see more than that then I would be checking crank sensor polarity and spark edge etc. You really need to confirm on every engine. Sometimes that means painting a new mark somewhere that is easier to see or using a mechanics mirror or snake cam to see the marks. GT40's are real fun. Cam offset is a different story as there is much more stacked error involved. Deck height has a tolerance, cam belt length has a tolerance, cam pulley and camshaft keyway indexing, cam trigger wheel indexing, cam tunnel placement relative to deck height, idler pulley and tensioner placement, etc. Even just skimming the heads or deck surface during a rebuild changes the cam offset.

Something like below. Switch connected to any DI. Use a virtual aux to set up the conditions you want NOS to activate under. In the example below, it will activate when my switch is on and RPM is above 4500 and TP is above 90%. If you want more conditions like a window switch or whatever then you can have one of the conditions is another virtual aux, then you can add more conditions in the second virtual aux setup. This Virtual Aux 1 can then be used to turn on a 4D fuel table and 4D ignition table for your extra fuel and retard.

Yes you can still set up the dual fuel tables to be interpolated in a similar way to modeled multifuel. The main difference is your two fuel tables will be quite different whereas in modeled mode they work out very similar or sometimes you dont even need two fuel tables.

Ok the trigger scope looks quite alright. There is a small 0.2V spike on the cam signal but it looks like arming threshold will take care of that. You are on very old firmware so I suspect you are just 360 deg out on your offset (firing on exhaust stroke). By changing to hall it possibly mis-syncs sometimes and fires on the correct stroke. This would explain why it doesnt start reliably - with it mis-syncing it will be something like a 50/50 chance of it firing on the correct stroke. So either update to the latest firmware or add or subtract 360 from your trigger offset and check base timing again.

Correct. Trigger mode would be 1 tooth/TDC with sync mode cam pulse 1X. This is sufficient for sequential fuel and direct spark or wasted spark ign.

Im not sure how this is meant to work. Can you explain better how you imagine it? Do you mean if you had an individual lambda sensor in each primary tube? How would the ECU know if it is the individual cylinder trim that needs to be adjusted or the main fuel table that is causing the problem?

Yes there are 4 teeth on the Evo 9 intake cam. (only 2 on the exhaust cam). No, The cam is forced to the home position during the angle test. You do need to be above the RPM and ECT lockouts but yours are set low so that should have been fine.

I dont know what library you are using but with most you shouldnt need to specify the CAN ID if that is the only message that is going to be on the bus - if will just read every message. This bit here looks wrong to me: You want it to switch based on the frame ID which is the number in Byte 0. Based on how the rest of your code is written I suspect this should be something like: switch (rxmsg.buf[0]) Also your byte numbers are wrong in this section you cant have data in byte zero as that is your frame ID:

The special drivers on the VL plug-in run high imp injectors no drama with no changes to settings required or even possible.

Give us a log of the idle problem you currently have, I have never had difficulty getting decent manners from E-throttle idle control unless the throttle body is way too big, so its likely just a tune issue. If you really did want to go to a solenoid valve then the recommended option would be one of the common Bosch 2 or 3 wire types, many euro cars from '90s - mid 2000 had them, BMW, VW, Volvo etc. They are very reliable, give good control and flow plenty of air. You should be able to find them in a scrap yard for next to nothing.

Are you still getting no cam position reported for the VVT intake cam? Your DI settings look correct so I would probably start by running the cam angle test for the LH inlet cam and use the results from that test to confirm your DI offset is correct. Instructions are in the help file, G4+ ECU Tuning Functions > VVT Control > Tuning VVT Control > Cam Angle Test. Use a test pulse count of 4.

Yes, definitely looks like the cam sensor. We can mostly rule out wiring as if there was a bad connection we would see the signal go to 5V, but yours drops to 0V when it is playing up. It would pay to check that the chopper disc hasnt come lose on the end of the camshaft but otherwise I would try replacing the cam sensor.

Yeah sorry, this is a bit of an odd one that is not supported by the G4. If you had a G4X we would consider writing support for it but it wont happen for the G4. So, the non-turbo one is supported, but only with distributor ignition and batched injection. If you could add another sensor that saw a single tooth once per cam rev (such as on the cam sprocket or similar), then that coupled with the non-turbo distributor would give you all that is needed for sequential and direct spark. How about this kit (would allow wasted spark and batch fire) - seems reasonably priced: https://electromotive.com/our-products/dodge-neon-crank-trigger-kit/

No, click the save button, that will save it as a log file.

Please give us a triggerscope. If you need to change to hall to get it to run then it means the ECU is not happy with the pattern it is receiving when set to reluctor. AVCS control will be very poor when set to hall. It could be anything from arming threshold to cam timing to a wiring problem. The triggerscope will help us determine which of these you need to look at.

Then your speedo is still not connected to the ecu.

Can you remove the injector wire from the ECU and test it with just test light attached to the pin. Maybe it is shutting down due to over current.

Your ecu has a trigger scope, please use it.

First I suggest you contact Link about repair, you will be surprised what can be repaired for very reasonable costs - I have seen them recover G1's from boats that have been sunk in the past... They will probably be able to give you a tentative yes/no if you send a photo to [email protected] on Monday. As for the rest of your question - yes all G3's can be upgraded to run G4 firmware, there is a fee for the unlock code, at this time it is about NZD$200. All G3's that used the "adaptalink" box were just standard LEM G3's so are just the normal universal G3 ecu all with the same connector.

Dont use frame ID's for now, this will make what I called a compound message earlier and will make your life more difficult. You can choose whatever you like. The main requirement is every message needs it's own ID and no two devices can be sending the same ID. Lower numbers get higher priority when there is a lot of data on a busy bus but that is not going to be a factor in your case. In OEM buses you will find safety critical devices like ABS and DSC will all be high priority ID's, like <100.

There are quite a few varations of pinouts for these cars, on the JDM GTO's we get here in NZ the fans are on pin 20 & 21. I believe in some models the fans are controlled by just a switch in the radiator, not ecu controlled.