Adamw

Master is too small, I would expect it to be up around 15-20ms for 600cc injectors. It is also possible your timing is 360 out so you are firing on exhaust stroke rather than compression - although your current offset looks about normal for an AEM disc. If adding fuel doesnt give any further signs of life then try the offset at -350 Everything else in the log suggests all the fundamentals are there and working.

Set BAP to internal.

A CANJST cable is the easiest option. This has black and red "flying leads" that you need to connect to a 12V source yourself.

Yes, and it likely has a different pinout.

Your MAP sensor has failed or has a bad connection. 0 MAP = 0 fuel.

Do you have a K20 plug-in or S2000 plug-in?

Pushing the menu button should take you to a screen that looks something like below where you can reset the trip meters, change brightness, etc. Time is the icon at the top left. Sometimes the orings on the buttons get quite tight and you need to push quite hard. If a hard push doesnt get you the menu screen then I would suspect there is something faulty.

You can attach your files here.

No you wont be able to do that if it still has the ABS fitted. The ABS ecu will already be sending out "0 wheel speed" on the ID's that the speedo is looking at, you cant have another device sending a different speed on the same ID.

Im 99.9% sure these are a common "3 wire" internally regulated alternators, about as simple as alternators get. There is no connection to the ecu, the only thing it needs is a charge lamp of adequate wattage connected to the L terminal and the "S" sense wire connected to the battery.

Can you clarify what specific ECU you have? And what chassis? A V7 AVCS engine should only have 2 pin sensors on the crank and front cam sensor. The rear AVCS cam sensors may be 3 wire, but the crank sensor shouldnt be.

G4 Vs G4X: no knock control, only wasted spark ignition, very few spare inputs and outputs, very limited ECU logging, fixed CAN output only, no CAN inputs such as EGT's, lambdas etc. No flex fue functionsl, no modelled fuel, more basic injector characterisation, Idle control was more basic and limited. 12GP tables Vs 45 in X. G4+ you could say is very roughly halfway in between, most of the points above are greatly improved and I would still happily run a G4+. G4 will still run the engine well and is probably more tunable than the PFC, but will feel dated compared to the other 2.

Moved to G4X forum. Attach a copy of your map will be helpful. Have the ITB's been properly balanced with a synchrometer? If one or 2 cyl are getting more air than others it will have a big influence on cold start.

This is pretty common due to more load creating more EGT. Subaru's are especially bad as the long primaries exaggerate the affect. There are gear trim tables to compensate for the difference between gears. I also noticed a related effect on our Subaru test car - if you had done a little gentle driving around a built up area for example and the manifold cooled down a little, the first "WOT pull" you did after that would never reach boost target.

No that doesnt look right and the stream is no good without the CAN ID's shown anyway. The offset of -5 would make the wheel speed overflow to ~6500kmh when not moving. You can download my E46 basemap with the correct CAN setup from this post:

There doesnt appear to be any trigger issues in your log or scope, what is the reason you believe there is a trigger issue? I suspect the main issue will the map is really a complete mess, I would suggest you use our 350Z base map to get it started. Some of these below wouldnt affect start-up, but just to point out a few of the odd settings: The master fuel of 4ms and 50% in the fuel table would need about 2000cc injectors to get enough fuel to start. Both charge temp approximation and IAT trim are enabled together, it should be one or the other. Only 2% crank enrichment. 100-200% would be more typical. There are fuel and oil pressure limiters set up but no sensors assigned. There is a GP limit set up for lambda, but the sensors arent connected or arent working. There is a GP Limit set up for AN Volt 7, but nothing connected to that input. The MAP sensor calibration is wrong. The ignition table has 12deg advance all the way up to 2500RPM then jumps to 30+deg. The knock trim tables have random patches of upto 5deg retard in them and these are permanently stored - set to not clear. The throttle is only open 2%, 5-7% would be more typical for cold start. The log shows 90degC coolant temp, but IAT and ECU temp are <20. How did coolant get hot if it hasnt started? Or is this sensor not working too?

No, the only difference is the ABS config.

It's not making much vacuum in that most recent log, is the MAP sensor hose connected to a nipple in the plenum and not for example somewhere on the throttle body? What size are the injectors? Has the engine been apart since it last ran or is it a known runner?

Your scope shows a signal from the cam sensor but nothing from the crank sensor, so this is likely pinned wrong.

What does the lambda 1 status & lambda 1 error show when it is "not working"?

Try changing to the alternative CAN mode than you are currently using (button start/Key start - regardless of what the car actually has for an ignition switch), click apply, ok, do a store, then power cycle ign off for a few seconds before restarting. The wrong CAN mode is the usual cause of the ABS and related errors/lamps. \

Files attached for G4X/G5. Note the CAN bit rate for the Bosch ABS is an "order time option", not user configurable as far as I know, I think 500K or 1Mbit are the normal options. The CAN lambda default is 1Mbit but it can be reprogrammed to 500K if your ABS is 500K. You do this with the "find device" tool in the CAN devices tab (have only the lambda connected to bus when doing this). Bosch M5 ABS CAN Stream templates.zip Bosch M5 CAN Stream Notes.pdf

The ABS unit sends all 4 wheel speeds and and a calculated averaged/filtered wheel speed (front I think) signal onto the bus, the speedo uses the averaged one as far as I could tell. If you have removed the ABS unit then you could try wiring ecu CAN 1 to the vehicle bus and we coulkd send out a replacement signal for the missing ABS. There are quite a few error checking type strategies in the ABS CAN though so its hard to know how closely it will need to be replicated for the speedo to be happy.

It is effectively a slow PWM coded temperature signal. Connect the THWO wire to an aux output 1-10 and try the setup below.

Yeah the problem is that trigger 1 is intermittently not seeing all "teeth". I have no experience with that particular trigger system, but I had problems with a similar-looking one on a Peugeot that was very sensitive to the pull-up resistor. I cant remember if the Peugeot one needed a stronger or weaker pull-up though. It's hard to see how that wheel connects to the crankshaft in that picture, is there any chance it is misaligned or not running true?