Adamw

If 1&4 are wired to drive#1, 3&5 are wired to drive#2 and 2&6 are wired to drive#3 then it will work as semisequential. Set injection mode to Sequential for this to work. If they are not wired that way then you will be better to set it to multipoint group.

At the moment you have a trigger problem. The trigger is only the crank wheel and the front cam wheel, VVT settings or anything related to the rear cam sensors is not going to have any influence. You can leave that alone for now. Have you tried the dip switches on the ECU bottom PCB in both Immob and No Immob positions as per the manual?

Yep, that works fine. I can help you setup the CAN setup when the time comes. Take a look at the 14point7 Spartan 3 as another decent low cost option.

Yes, it is even more critical than fuel injector control. Spill valves are controlled just like injectors - they usually have battery voltage deadtime compensation and other PW compensations based on solenoid characteristics as part of the control strategy. Because fuel is not compressible and the HP pump is a mechanically driven piston pump, to keep the fuel pressure near target the spill valve needs to add exactly the same amount of fuel to the rail as the injectors let out. The only way it can know how much fuel the pump is capable of delivering at any instant is by knowing camshaft position (i.e how where the pump piston is on its cam lobe). Say if the ecu calculates it needs 0.2cc of fuel added to the rail and it knows the pump capacity is 0.4cc per stroke, then it needs to close the spill valve when the piston is exactly half way up the cam lobe. The graph at the top right of the russian picture is a better representation of what P&H looks like. So a short patch of 0V (this is the "peak" current), then the rest of the opening time is just short pulses to 0V (typically about 25%DC).

Ok, that suggests that it is the Mosfet that controls the main relay that is dropping out. I remember a couple of years ago there was a small batch of Mosfets that were found to be outside of the their tolerance range so they would drop out at about 8.0V instead of the designed 6.5V. One last check you could do is measure voltage between pin 55&56 try to see what it drops to when cranking. If it drops below about 9V I would say it is an issue with your wiring or a ground somewhere, if it stays above about 10V then I would lean towards you possibly having one of the bad FETs. The M50 uses a "Cam Level" type sync which it generally very quick sync, the engine only needs to turn a maximum of 360deg before it will sync (often a lot less - basically as soon as it sees the missing tooth on the crank it is synced). The pre-crank prime will dump fuel in before the engine is even turning. So your slow start is probably just a setting or tune issue. Attach a log of a start up and your tune so we can take a look.

Ok, unfortunately it is sounding very much like you have a hardware issue. It seemed like too much of a coincidence at first that it lost USB comms when you were messing around with CAN1, but it sounds like you have ruled out all possible interactions there now and covered all other troubleshooting steps that would normally be requested. It is pretty rare for a hardware issue on the USB side but I cant think of any other explanation that is more likely. I suggest you email [email protected] and get their advice on getting it inspected. I dont know where you are in the world but it will likely need to go back to NZ.

In windows device manager, is the ECU showing up in the COM ports section with no yellow exclamation marks or anything? What happens if you try to do a firmware update in PC Link, does it still not connect?

Yes realdash needs to connect via USB. Lambda wont work on realdash with the Fury as the serial comms it uses is quite out of date so doesnt have Internal lambda or CAN Lambda in its message.

Attach your map please

As has already been mentioned, you are not going to be able to control this with a standalone device. It needs peak and hold control and either the start or finish of the spill event needs to be synchronous with the crankshaft and its pulse with will be decided by the ecu based on feedback from the pressure sensor and the calculated injector PW based on the operating conditions at that instant. You cant just intercept the output as that effectively disconnects the feedback system from the closed loop algorithm. You are probably better to look at something like manipulating the fuel pressure sensor signal so the ECU thinks pressure is lower and increases it on its own.

If you go to the runtimes screen (F12), triggers/limits tab, does trig 1 & trig 2 signal turn green and say yes when cranking?

Lambda should come through on PID24. Oil pressure is not included as a PID in the OBD2 standard. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/OBD-II_PIDs

The white tabs are locks, they should be flush with the black housing. If yours are poking out the pins have been unlocked. You need to push all the wires to make sure they are fully seated then the white lock tabs will be able be clicked back in. Watch this video from about 30sec on: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1MnJlNTBhX_ccv40PbVgIi9XTy4HbXEfJ/view?usp=drivesdk

No the wiring wont change, you will have to change the trigger settings to match though.

Of course you need to use the G4 software to tune a G4 ecu. There is a GTT (RB25) base map in the G4 software, it will be converted to an xtreme map when you load it into your ecu.

It is not a USB comms problem, your ECU log stops and restarts after the engine starts, that means the ECU is switching off. This could be caused by two main circuits. As a quick test to eliminate where the problem is, can you try grounding pin 27 with a little alligator clip lead or similar and see if the ECU still drops out when cranking with that pin grounded.

Yes, it does count the injection event even when there is no driver. Here is a quick test with and old Storm ECU (4 inj outputs), white trace is with config set up as 4cylinders, pink trace is same accel settings but engine config set to 8 cylinders.

Most of the decent name brand ones are of a similar price level. Many of the the cheaper ones dont last long, especially when mounted direct to an engine. Absolutely avoid the very cheap chinese ones you find on amazon/ebay, I know of at least one car locally that has caught fire due to one bursting open. The Bosch combined pressure/temp sensors are about the best value decent ones at the moment - even if you dont need the temp part they are cheaper than most other good pressure sensors.

Not really practical, the only way I could imagine achieving this would be with multiple virtual auxiliaries.

It can but it will be saved as a CSV file. You are better off using the ECU logging.

The throttle is working ok, it still doesnt look like the pedal part is calibrated correctly, but it is close enough for it to start and run ok. I would say you dont have enough fuel. Did you try adjusting the master fuel up and down when it is running? With 570cc injectors I would expect the master fuel to be between 10 & 15ms, but just adjust it by feel - move it up or down until it runs the best. Have you confirmed base timing with a timing light?

Yeah, its not going to work. Looking at that Russian diagram above again I notice that this spill valve works similar to the "Normally open" type GDI pumps. It is the point that the valve gets turned on that determines the fuel pressure - not the point that it gets turned off. The shaded black area on the graph is the "spilled fuel" this is what controls fuel pressure. When you energise the solenoid, the valve closes, as soon as it is closed the fuel pressure holds the valve closed - it cant open again until the pump piston has bottomed out and internal pressure drops to near zero. So giving it a "longer pulse" is not going to achieve anything. You need to actually turn the valve on earlier, not turn it off later. And you cant just control it with random PWM, it needs to be timed accurately to crank or cam position and it is generally a fully closed loop system.

It will work either way in multipoint group mode. However depending on which cylinders are paired up you may be able to use semi-sequential mode for a slight improvement. Which injectors do you have wired to which drivers?

Have you actually unplugged it from the ECU board, or outside the ECU case?

Can you attach a copy of your tune and a log of the engine running above the temp that the fan is meant to switch on.