Adamw

Start cut tp100 is too high and end cut is too low. Try dropping start cut to between 0-30%, end cut 100.

Sorry for the slow reply, I missed your last post. Correct, set the ref timing to whatever timing mark is conveinient to use. Correct Yes, it should change by exactly 90deg - but that is assuming it was correct in the first place, so best to check it yourself with a timing light. No it is a bit odd to do it that way, cant really think of a valid reason.

Ok you're right, Realdash wont be able to display a CAN input. The cheapest commercial CAN bus gauge I know of is this one: https://www.aemelectronics.com/products/gauges/digital-gauges/x-series/aemnet Fancier CAN gauge options with alarms etc are Perfect tuning, Gaugeart, & BTI Gauges. http://www.btigauges.com/link--vipec.html https://perfecttuning.net/en/gauge/68-universal-gauge-linkg4.html https://gaugeart.com/product/gaugeart-can-gauge/ If your headunit has a VGA or composite input gaugeart also have a customisable CAN to video display adapter. There are many basic CAN bus displays around nowadays also - I cant remember them all, but Plex uSDM for example.

Yep, I agree with Simon here, analog is easier as it means you can make all adjustments in the ECU software, rather than going between the knob and ECU settings.

I havent looked at one closely in a while but my recolection is they are a NC valve and when energised they vent the reference side of the FPR to atmosphere - so if stuck open the FPR sees no vacuum or boost reference.

The pertronix device is a trigger and ignitor all in one, it is designed to drive a high current coil directly rather than provide a nice clean signal to an ecu. You cant reliably trigger the ECU from the coil as it sends out a very high voltage (200+V) spike with multiple "oscillations" after it. I have helped someone make a Pertronix work as a trigger before by connecting a "dummy coil" (large resistor) but we found even once we had it producing a suitable trigger signal it gave very poor timing accuracy. So I would really avoid using that if I could. Sorry, "guts" might be a NZ slang term - By this I mean "internals". And what I mean by "conventional internals" is something that was originally designed to trigger an electronic ignition system. Commonly this would be a VR, hall effect or optical trigger. There is probably some later GM parts that will fit without much drama. For instance here is a page describing how you can put a mopar "HEI" trigger (these are VR) into your original 235 dizzy: http://devestechnet.com/Home/HEIgnition Note we wouldnt use the HEI module - just the trigger part (toothed wheel and pickup). With this mod, you would lock the advance mechanism inside the distributor, the distributor then sends engine position information to the ecu, the ECU triggers an ignitor which drives the coil. The ECU then has full control over the ignition advance. A crank trigger or after market distributor would be another option but may take away from your period look. The advantage of ecu controlled ignition compared to old mechanical advance is great - it will generally make a far bigger difference to how the engine performs than the fuel injection side. Especially older low compression engines you will find at light loads, cruising etc you will be able to push in something like 40deg advance for a noticeable gain in torque and economy. The ecu will also be able to do stuff like idle ignition control to stabalise idle speed when you put the trans in gear etc.

The problem is without some sort of scope capture you arent going to know how close your edges are to crossing over each other. If you have a G4+ ecu with a built in scope then just do a trigger scope after you adjust the cam and check how it looks. If the cam edge is getting close to the crank edge then it could usually be solved just by changing one of the rising/falling settings. If you dont have a scope and want to be able to adjust the cam freely the the best option would be as I mentioned earlier - remove 1 tooth from the crank to make it a 12-1.

I moved your post into its own topic since it wasnt relevant to the thread you posted in. This model is not a car I know well. I suspect it will have a BEAN or CAN network for the dash and climate control which will make life difficult. Can you tell us a bit about it... Does it have electronic throttle? Manual gearbox? What are you trying to achieve?

Typically for a turbo engine you would put MGP on the fuel table axis, (MGP is MAP-BAP) this will take care of altitude changes quite well and rarely needs anything more than that. If you want something more user configurable or want to do something a bit different with BAP compensation then just turn on a 4D fuel table, and put BAP on one axis. The 4D tables are an overlay so act like a multiplier. If you have a "5%" in a 4D table it will add 5% to the calculated fuel, if you put "-5%", it will remove 5% from the calculated fuel.

No there should be nothing extra required. Pin 38 on the Evo 4 ecu works in exactly the same way as pin 57 on the Evo 9 ecu. The ecu should ground this pin when the ignition switch is on.

You could also change to open loop which only needs 2 tables. Generally works very well.

Your last log shows that AN T1 is open circuit. i.e either there is no connection to the sensor or the sensor is broken. Having the ECU thinking the temp is higher than actual would make the engine idle slower, not faster. You have many settings wrong in your map such as the stepper is set to reset at key off yet you have no ecu hold power set up so it will never reset. It sounds like you need to get some help from a tuner that understands how it works, or read the help file in much more detail. You could start by copying the base position table out of the supra base map which would be much closer to expected, and also change the stepper reset to "key-on" instead of keyoff. Remember to wait about 5 seconds after you turn the key on before cranking to allow the stepper to move to correct position.

Note the Atom does not have closed loop boost control, only open loop. Still has most of the other capability though - boost by gear or speed, or timers, multiple boost tables or trim switch type adjustment.

1. I believe they were used to increase fuel pressure on hot restarts. 2. No it is not connected electrically with the Link ECU. 3. I have never seen one cause a problem, but I guess if it got stuck in the open position your fuel pressure would no longer increase with boost.

Yeah it should be fine to leave as is. Obviously it probably hasnt been thoroughly tested/proven with the "wrong" settings but in theory it should make no difference.

First step is to do a log of it cranking. Attach the log and a copy of your map here. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_P1LRANeO4A

Its pretty difficult to get a clean signal off the primary side off an existing ignition system. If it were me, I would change the guts inside the distributor to something more conventional and have the Link control the coil. You get much better drivability with 3D computer controlled ignition compared to a 2D advance curve that only varies with RPM. It wouldnt look any different from the outside - same coil, distributor etc. It would just need an ignitor which could be hidden inside the car somewhere.

If you are doing closed loop you will need two extra spare tables(4 in total), 1 for the wastegate DC and 1 for the boost target.

Yes that is a non-amplified coil, you will need a 2ch ignitor to drive it. Dwell sounds like a reasonable starting point.

Why do you think it is related to TPS? Does the TP parameter work when you press the throttle or not? Have you checked base timing and adjusted the master fuel?

I will have to do a bench test later, but I dont think so.

If you want 3 different boost levels you will either have to set it to 3 tables (have one table with all zeros in it), or if you want to do it with two tables you would have set up your switch so that it physically turns the power off to the boost solenoid - but that would mean significant wiring complexity. With your current set up though you should however see table 2 become active when DI6 is active. Were you connected to a live ECU? Do you have an aux output assigned to boost solenoid?

Im pretty sure in the Evo trigger modes the sync edge polarities are hard coded, so it should work fine either way. Trigger 1 actually uses both the rising an falling edges to effectively give you 4 teeth instead of two.

Are you using the Audi TT CAN stream mode? Engine torque is already sent in all of the VAG CAN streams (as Clint says it wont be real torque, it will be a approximation based on something like inj DC). In the TT stream I believe it is not representing Nm, it is just a arbitrary 8bit number 0-255, where 0 = no torque, 255 = full torque. Did you try the Golf GTI and Golf Mk5 streams? Are you using the latest firmware? I know there were some messages added to the TT stream to suppoort the ABS in later model cars in FW5.6.5

If you are using a crank trigger with evenly spaced teeth - then yes, the cam edge will have to be reasonably well centered between two crank edges. If you get too close to an edge then with valve train resonance and cam belt stretch etc the edges can cross and you ign timing will instantly change by one whole crank tooth. If you make your crank wheel into a missing tooth pattern then the position of the cam tooth doesnt matter.