Adamw

Your trigger offset looks suspicious to me. Have you checked it with a timing light? If the timing looks ok with a timing light then you could just be 360 deg out - firing on the exhaust stroke. Try adding 360 to your offset.

Fuel pump heating the fuel is a myth in my experience. My injector flow bench has 2x 044's in about a 10 lire tank and I only get about 5 degrees increase over a couple of hours. Say if your pump pulls 10A, that is only ~140watts, DC motors are about 80% efficient and vane pumps are up in that ball park too, so you may have something like 50watts of heat produced by the pump, most of it will be radiated off the large surface area tank etc. Also, see this one:

Oh yeah, I just remembered those old SDL's have some CAN restriction in them. I cant remember exactly but something like it only allows a max of 20 channels, so it will only be showing the first twenty and hiding all the others. I will take another look later, I might be able to move the wheel speed higher up the list.

Your DI2 is set to RR wheel speed, this should already be set up and working in the config I gave you. Note many of the Motec channel names are a bit different to Link, so you should find it as "Dig In 4 Speed" The terminating resistor shouldnt have prevented it from working - it is just with a short bus it is not usually required - but it is still proper practice to have it. Are you sure it really was 100ohm. Are you sure it wasnt shorting the two wires together somehow?

They shouldnt change much at all, apart from a bit of slop in the timing chain. How much change are you seeing? Trigger offset will vary on every engine, this is due to stacked manufacturing tolerances on all the mechanical components, things like crank shaft keyway, pin indexing, pulley marks, front cover pointer, trigger wheel indexing, etc. The referenece timing can be any number you like, this is just the value that you want to aim for when you are checking the timing with a timing light.

Ok, I can only assume you have a wiring problem or the lamp pulls more than 2A in that case. The fact that it works with the LED proves the aux output is working.

Note that "connection settings" screen that you show above doesnot "test your connection", all it tells you is how the laptop is connected to the dash. About the only other thing you can check from the ECU is open the runtimes screen (F12), go to the CAN tab and see if there are any red errors showing on CAN 1. Maybe give us some photos of the CAN wiring also.

AP sub and main need to match. TP sub and main need to match. TP main and TP target needs to match. There is no requirement for AP to track TP as in many scenarios there is no relationship between these two at all. Your error is because TP main does not match TP target. Use p= 7, I = 0.05, D = 35. You may need to drop P to 6 or increase D a little if it still becomes unstable with those settings.

Set them however you like to make it work. As I said earlier you have the IC spray set up to come on only above a certain boost - it is not controlled by the manual/auto switch at all. Can you attach a log of you driving the car above 130Kpa MAP.

You havent given any information to allow anybody to help. How about a log and tune file?

If your cas is the aluminium body mitsubishi unit then your pinout will be as below. Only the Hitachi one that has a black plastic cover from the Neo engine is different. They are meant to be powered by 12V, 8V will probably work but I have never tried.

There is no way to make it work with the modified cam gear you have. You will need one of the matching pairs below.

So if you set the aux to "test (on)" does it work?

Yeah, the only "comms" to the ACD ecu is just a shared 0-5V signal from the TPS. If you use the original TP wire to connect the new DBW TP main then it will just work with no other mods. If you are going to run new wires to the TB, then you will need to splice TP main signal to pin 39 of the diff controller.

Ok, I dont see any major trigger issues in those logs. So it does seem like you are shy on ignition energy. Your dwell looks about right though. As a test to confirm if it is an ignition energy problem can you try closing the spark plug gap up. Go as low as 0.5mm if you need to.

What PID was in use when it became unstable in the last log? Normally 7 & 35 works ok on the LS throttles. You may have to reduce P further.

Do a PC log and set it to record everything, there is a "Add all" button at the bottom of the logging set up screen.

Not natively. If you have a another spare aux out and DI, you can connect them together, set the DI as traction disable, then set up the aux to turn off at high speed.

Yes, you should enter the correct offsets (both on DI and trig 2) for the VVT position to track correctly. It will not affect the trigger or ignition timing, all you are doing is telling the ECU where the reference tooth on the cam is in relation to TDC on the crank.

The Link base map will be your best starting point, when you get something that has been messed with by someone else you never know what surprises are hiding in them. The Link ones are well proven and have been unchanged for many years.

If you want to use an ABS sensor that has more than about 20 teeth then you will need a frequency divider. If it is a 2 wire sensor then use one of these: https://shop.vems.hu/catalog/hall-p-162.html If it is a 3 wire sensor then it will be best to build your own: Note, some ABS ecu's wont be happy with sharing the sensor, so consider that ABS may no longer work.

Knock 1 is pin B50, Knock 2 is pin B49, Sensor gnd is pin B65. At the ecu end of the cable, connect the shield and one wire together to sensor ground, connect the 2nd wire to the knock pin. At the sensor end of the cable the shield doesnt get connected to anything, and one wire gets connected to each sensor pin.

If its fouling spark plugs the then tune is not right, fitting a narrowband O2 sensor isnt going to fix that. Most people dont bother with a narrowband sensor as it cant be used for tuning - so they fit a wideband sensor/controller instead which can be used for tuning as well as the closed loop functionality. The ECU can work fine with the original narrowband sensor for closed loop control at idle and cruise (mainly for economy and emmisions reasons) if you want to fit one but the tune still needs to be correct in the first place, the O2 sensor should only be making very small adjustments. The factory sensor is a 3 pin connetor.

Yes you can plug a laptop/tablet into the USB cable and see anything you want. You can also use an app such as Realdash via USB.

Your basic ignition settings and dwell looks ok. Can you post a log of it running in the misfire area, you have a trigger error showing in your map when it was saved and some of the ecu statistics have some values which may indicate your problem is trigger related. Can you reset ECU statistics also.