Adamw

Unlikely since there will be lots of CAN involved in the dash and most other driver comforts. Or are you using the engine in something else?

That sounds fine. Provided all the other sensors read ok once running I wouldnt worry about it.

The ECU only supplies the ground side, the +12V side comes from elsewhere in the car, most likely originally from the ignition switch or ECCS relay. You will have to find a wiring diagram that matches your model if you want to troubleshoot the existing wire.

Good work. It suggests for whatever reason you have very low ignition energy - not enough current to allow the coil to "charge" properly. It may be a wiring/pinout problem either at the coil or ignitor or maybe bad ignitor etc.

Sorry, I dont see any ECU related reason for no spark. It is seeing solid RPM, no trigger errors, no cuts and commanded dwell is steady so the ECU will be commanding spark and the ignitors should be responding. You are going to have to do a bit more work with an LED test light or oscilloscope to see that the ignition signal is making it into and out of the ignitor. Unrelated but one thing I noticed in your log that I wanted to warn you about while I remember; The throttle is going to 40% during cranking, this is due to the 20% in your E-throttle target table and the extra 20% in the start up step table. If it ever does get spark it is going to rev straight to the rev limiter as soon as it starts so please fix that. It would be more common to have about 5% in the target table and 2% in the start up step.

Do a PC log with all parameters recorded. There is an "add all" button at the bottom of the logging set up screen. Here is a quick vid showing how to do the log: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_P1LRANeO4A

The knock target table needs to be set up by your tuner using audio knock detection equipment after properly tuning your ignition table to suit the fuel and other variables. The knock signature of the engine is affected by a huge range of variables so you cant just copy settings from a similar engine. Some of the other settings such as frequency channel and cyl gains etc will probably be similar but the knock threshold (target) table will be completely unique for your car.

So what are you using for an ignitor? How are you checking there is no spark when cranking? Is the coil +12V supply maintained during cranking? Can you post a short log of it cranking?

You've got a waveform that is probably usable, but it is not as symmetrical as it should be. It may improve when its running, but it looks like there is something else connected to the trigger circuit that shouldnt be. Like maybe there is a bad ground or the ground is shared with something. You often see this type of deformation with piggyback installs for instance. Still it will likely run as it is...

It will be 2.5Bar, good for about 22psi boost.

Both cam and crank are incorrect polarity, you will need to swap +/- wires. Post another scope once they are swapped because your wave form is quite distorted which suggests there may be some other wiring problem too. It may come right once swapped though.

The fan won’t turn on until the “on” temperature is exceeded and engine RPM is above 400.

Your ignition settings are all ok. Your dwell table looks abut right, maybe a little on the weak side. As a test put 3.0 in all the cells I highlighted below to see if the misfire goes away. Make sure the centre pin of the ignitor has a solid ground back to the engine block. Are you sure it is an ignition problem - are there any trigger errors or anything else showing in the log?

Yes, your cal number is correct. What ECU do you have? With a Thunder you will be ok, but with 48 teeth you are going to exceed the 500Hz frequency limit of the smaller ECU's. You will need a frequency divider like this:

Correct, the one aux can control fuel pump on/off and speed.

Sorry for the slow reply, I have just had a chance to take a closer look. I think I found the problem after taking a look at some schematics. The manual shows two variations of expansion connector pinout, one for PCB upto V1.4 and one for "from V1.5". However, there are actually 3 variations. V1.5 was a unique one different to the earlier and later ones. The one you posted above should say "from V1.6". Here is the correct pinout for your V1.5 bottom board:

Yes this is normal. I have come across it before tuning idle on cars with large injectors sometimes you lower the fuel table number and it suddenly gets richer. A pic from google which shows this particular injector flows more at 0.3ms eff than at 0.4ms:

just deleted my last post, as I was wrong... Do you have aux 9 set to off in the software? What pcb revision does it show on your bottom board?

I’m pretty sure there is no aux 4 on the evo plug-in, im not at a pc right now but are you sure you are looking at the correct pinout?

Also, What ecu do you have?

I’m pretty sure the default fan control strategy will not enable the fan aux when the engine is not running, you should not have to change anything.

No it looks like a reasonable starting point

What does it have for coils/ignitors? If you have "dumb coils" without an ignitor you can get a spark when the plug is in free air during an ignition test, but not have enough energy to create a spark when in the cylinder under compression.

Does it run and everything work? It seems from the IO set up this is not even an S13 ECU? Your ECU statistics show that you are have hit the MAP limit 15 times so that possibly needs to be fixed..

It is not clear what you are doing. Can you confirm you have 12V on pin A5 and gnd on A25 or A34? Also in windows device manager do you have a "Link USB ECU" under the Ports COM & LTP section like below.