Adamw

That is a G1/V14 Linkplus. You will need a serial link box and a USB to serial adapter to connect a laptop to it. Simon will know more about its capability but I’m pretty sure they couldnt do vvt. Pretty limited ecu by today’s standards and I’m not sure i would invest the time installing and tuning one from scratch. Even the most basic Atom would do a much better job.

It’s not clear what ecu you have - is it a Linkplus or Linkplus G2 or Linkplus G3?

This is how it’s meant to work. If you have a map open when you connect to an ecu, PC Link will compare the two configs, if there are only small changes it will ask you if you want to write them into the ecu. If there are large differences it it load the config out of the ecu.

Their manual says "If you are using the iDash 1.8 with an aftermarket ECU, reference iDash 1.8 aftermarket ECU setup, Owners Manual 97670 for more details", I can not find that manual on their website so you may want to ask them. If I were to hazard a guess, I would say they most likely expect the Link to be set to transmit generic dash on ID 1000 as most other 3rd party devices do.

Help file: Wiring Information > Communications Port Pinout

I dont think you mentioned which pin you are using, but just to confirm, it should be pin 4 that I've highlighted below. Another quick test you could do is connect pin 4 to pin 23 (the 5V supply) with a short jumper wire, an volt 4 should then show 5V.

I was writing a reply while CJ replied so I will post it anyhow, you might get some ideas from both... I would suggest a fuel pressure sensor as probably a better safety device than current monitoring. Under many conditions current is not going to be a a good indicator of fuel flow. With fuel press you can set up the ecu to compensate for a drop in differential press by increasing inj PW, as well as something like flash a warning light or activate a limiter if it drops too low. The GP outputs and virtual auxes are very flexible so this is normally how you would create strategies like this. Below is an example for a main pump and a 2nd staged pump. The primary pump is on Aux 4 in this example so its function is set to "Fuel pump", so it does the normal prime etc. The 2nd pump is on aux 5 and its function is set to GP Output. You can use and conditions you like with and/or logic. The conditions I have used to turn the 2nd pump on are "Aux 4 must be on" and the Inj duty cycle must be above 15%. Having aux 4 as a condition means the 2nd pump gets the same safety control features as the main pump. The reason Inj DC is used for as the 2nd switch condition is it is directly related to fuel flow. Some people use boost or RPM or both, but inj DC is usually more relevant. Edit: Forgot to add how you could do the Fuel pump current limiter. Here is one example. Current device is assigned as a GP Input. You cant calibrate into "Amp" units so I used % in this example. Then put the Fuel pump current on one axis of a GP Limiter table. In this example if f Pump current is between 30 & 100% the RPM limit will be 10000. If the pump current drops below 30% or above 100%, RPM will be limited to 2000.

That should work provided the switch is quite close to the ECU. If the serial wires are any longer than about 200mm it will affect the PC comms (even with nothing connected to them). It will need to be a double pole switch so that both the Rx & Tx gets disconnected.

AN Volt 4 is fine to use for a temp sensor on the S15 plug-in, there is a jumper on the bottom board to enable a pull-up on that input. So have you definitely got the J8 jumper fitted shorting the two pins together? Make sure it is a tight fit on the pins and pushed all the way on as I have seen a lose jumper before. Another test you can do to confirm is unplug the temp sensor and measure voltage across the pink/blue wires - you should see 5V if the jumper is fitted. If you attach your tune file someone will check it is set up right.

I dont think the internal pull-up will be strong enough. My recollection is they are 4K7 to a regulated 12V supply.

I’m replying from a phone so haven’t looked at the tune or log at all but I will say up front that there is a fundamental flaw in your setup. If you want to control idle with an air bypass valve then you will need a MAP sensor. Without MAP there is no way for the ecu to know how much extra air is bypassing the throttle to add the correct amount of fuel. You can still run alpha N, but it will need MAP as the load equation source for idle AFR to be reasonably stable.

Ok, I suspect this is your problem. The R8 coils should definitely use the "normal/long" pinout. Here is another document showing part numbers and pinout:

What you are describing is a often refereded to as a "sequential message", this is where you have a base ID and each subsequent frame uses an ID that is incremented by some amount. At present the only way to do this in Link in how you have done it - that is assigning separate channels/streams for each message. The problem with sequential is there is no "industry standard" for the increment. Some use increments of 1, some use 8 or 10 or 16 or even mixtures of these... Note that Haltech is not really sequential, their first few frames look like it, 361, 362, 363, etc, but after 363 it jumps to 368. This is called compound or multiplexed messaging. Note you need to have an identifier in one of the bytes for this to work. You set that up in the "frame ID" box at the top of the streams tab. If you are interested there are a few examples of Arduino sketches linked here on the forum if you want to see how others have decoded this type of message. Most use the arduino "switch/case" statement to interperet the frame into different channels depending on the frame ID. Another option is to use the preconfigured dash2pro stream which uses 3 sequential ID's. If there are any channels missing that you want you can just add another custom stream on the end.

The factory denso sensors should match the Std Bosch NTC calibration. If you are suspicious you one doesnt, pull it out and measure resistance at 0°C (in cup of ice water), 100°C (cup of boiling water) and again at room temp - around 20deg. Report back those 3 resistances.

I would be more suspicious of a wiring problem, the reason I say this is because the ignition outputs are only connected to 7V inside the ECU, so if you are measuring 12V it would seem that must be coming from something external. Be aware there are 2 different pinouts for the common VAG coils, the R8 should match the "normal/long" variation below. Can you try testing the ignition outputs with all coils unplugged? Sospecharía más de un problema de cableado, la razón por la que digo esto es porque las salidas de encendido solo están conectadas a 7V dentro de la ECU, por lo que si está midiendo 12V parece que debe provenir de algo externo. Tenga en cuenta que hay 2 pines diferentes para las bobinas VAG comunes, el R8 debe coincidir con la variación "normal / larga" a continuación. ¿Puedes intentar probar las salidas de encendido con todas las bobinas desconectadas?

About 7A each absolute max, more like 4A under normal conditions.

I dont have much personal experience with the K20 coils but your dwell time sounds about right and I havent heard of others having a problem at that sort of boost level with them. So I suspect you may have some other problem. Please attach a log and the tune file.

I have done a couple of NA circuit cars where I have good data from petrol vs E85. I saw engine coolant temp probably about 3°C lower on average (no thermostats) even though they were making about 4% higher power. I have never had trouble with high engine temp however, that suggests the heat exchanger system is inadequate.

You said you had a "G3 with G4 firmware" though. If that is the case you should be using G4 PC Link V4.10 which is where my screenshot is from.

Trigger 2 is not connected and should be set to sync mode = none. Basic settings as below. Set the trigger 1 arming threshold and trigger offset to NZW suggestions.

If you have the older MXG, then you can only send data out on CAN2 or the Exp port so as per JMP suggests, two separate connections back to the ECU are required. If you have the newer MXG 1.2, then you can send and receive on the main CAN 1 port so only one CAN connection to the ECU is required. Tell me what model dash you have and attach your ecu and dash configs and I should be able to set it up.

You dont need to calculate it, just adjust the number up or down it until it runs better or the AFR gauge shows something in the ball park of normal.

The G3 needs a small hardware mod and a firmware upgrade to enable the CAN bus, I believe the hardware modification is a free service if you return it to Link. Otherwise if you are capable of basic SMT soldering you can contact Link tech support and they will give you instructions to enable you to do it yourself. It will also need the firmware upgrade to G4, this upgrade has a cost as you need to purchase an upgrade code. It was about NZD$230 last I heard. It is quite a nice upgrade though, it gives you quite a bit more functionality over the G3 firmware. Closed loop boost, onboard data logging. Much better G4 tuning software. Quick tune, many more configurable options for inputs/outputs and 2D/3D tables.

That is pretty typical. Heat soak affects many other factors besides air temp such as hot injectors, hot fuel rail etc. Usually to take care of this you would set up the IAT trim table as a 3D table with either Engine running time on one axis. You can then add a little extra fuel at high IAT for the first 40seconds or so of running. You also want a IAT sensor that has a reasonable response time and is exposed to the air stream well.

We are talking about the commanded injector PW from the ecu, not the short pulse width adder table. If you are using traditional fuel equation you will notice there is no setting in the ecu for the injector flow rate, the overall amount of fuel being injected is taken care of by adjusting the master fuel number.