Adamw

Pin 1 = ECU sensor ground (Gnd Out) Pin 2 = ECU Digital input 1-4. Pin 3 = Ign switched +12V source. Polarity doesnt matter. Connect 1 pin to ign switched +12V source, connect the second pin to ECU aux output 1-4.

No, completely different hardware. There is a base map in the Link ecu that will generally only need some minor adjustments to get it to run but it will need to be tuned ASAP once running.

Yes, it can use all factory sensors and all factory functionality is maintained. Typically you wouldnt use the airflow meters as the ECU has a 4bar MAP sensor onboard. Another common change for a GTR is the air temp sensor, the factory one is there and will work, but it is not a great sensor and is shrouded in quite a heavy boss so is slow responding and prone to heat soak. There are also 2 expansion connectors to allow you to connect extra sensors and accessories if required.

Its really the average that you are after so I would tap both runners and merge them into a single damper. The common canisters that I have seen are just a hollow can full of steel wool.

Or you can buy a ready made device for ~$25: https://www.ebay.com/itm/TACH-TACHOMETER-SIGNAL-BOOSTER-3-16V-In-48-63V-Out-compare-to-MSD-8920-/142171581596

Either usually works, but sensor ground is preferable for the signal ground on these coils. The signal input on these is TTL logic level so you only need a 0.8V ground offset and you can get a random sparks. It would still be unlikely in normal circumstances to have an offset of 0.8v between cyl head and ECU ground but better to be safe than sorry. I will add that it is fine to connect both the crank sensor grounds and the shield to the same shield/gnd pin. This is how its done in the Link supplied looms. The "Shield/gnd" pins and the "ground out" pins are connected internally and can be used interchangeably. Edit: I just noticed a couple of other mistakes: Boost solenoid needs switched +12V on one side, ECU aux on the other (cant high side drive a boost solenoid). The pressure sensor pinouts look wrong, usually the center pin is the signal.

Ok, a few comments to get started; All link ECU's have a built-in baro sensor so you dont need the atmosphere sensor. For ITB's you probably dont need the MAP sensor either. Only the higher-end Link ecu's have traction control capability so if you want that then you will need to look at the Xtreme, Fury or Thunder. The Xtreme and Fury are pretty similar - the main difference is the Fury has 1 x built-in wideband controller (and only 6 ign drives). The Thunder is the most powerful ECU with 2 x onboard wideband, lots more IO and various other additional features. You can see a comparison of the main differences here: https://www.linkecu.com/products/ecu-comparison-chart/ The Xtreme and Fury digital inputs can only take a max frequency of ~500Hz so that rules out a lot of high tooth count ABS speed sensors. The Thunder has 6 high speed inputs that can do 6500Hz so it can take ABS inputs directly. To make the ABS sensors work with the Xtreme or Fury then you can either use a frequency divider circuit or if you are no longer using ABS then you can grind half the teeth off (12-20teeth is generally a good number for these ECU's). Any can do the speedo output (it will be a 0-12V square wave output) - not all factory speedos will be compatible with that so you will need to research what your speedo needs. None have a video output but you could either use an app called Realdash (if your nav is Android based) or a company called Gaugeart makes a CAN bus video device for displaying ECU data on most LCD devices. All of the other stuff you mention would be covered by any of these ECU's.

I dont see many clues to where the problem is, it appears to be a misfire. Can you try increasing dwell to about 2.0 and give it about 25deg timing and see if it changes anything. I assume you have changed some stuff in the attached map compared to the log as the log shows 19deg timing @ 6000 but the map shows 24deg. Do something like this just for a test:

You don’t need to change anything, the factory sensor works fine. If you do want to change to a sensor with isolated ground (2 wire) then the easiest option is to connect the 2nd pin to the shield and use that as it’s ground. For the boost solenoid, connect to factory wires.

Map and log would be helpful.

In the Vipec days you could buy either a V88 or V44 version of the Evo plug-in, the V88 had more IO but was more expensive. They both used the same adapter board. A V44 plug-in doesnt have those inputs as you have found. What you see in the software is what you have, only AN Volt 6 will be available on the expansion port.

From the help file: Assuming you have a S15, the MAF plug will have 3 wires, Black/white is +12V, Blue is AN Volt 4, Pink is sensor ground. Connect the IAT sensor to the blue and pink wires. Fit the jumper to J8.

Im going to paste my reply from your similar post on the HP academy forum for anyone interested. I dont see any signs of trigger issues in the log you attached. There is really only one short burst to 6000RPM in the posted log so that may not tell the whole story, but dwell is well controlled and the Engine speed ROC parameter is pretty stable - both of which suggest the ECU is getting good consistent trigger info.

It really needs to go to a tuner. You cannot really guess how a different turbo is going to affect VE, and where it does it will likely need both fuel and ignition adjustments.

I think I would avoid that, it looks very suspicious. Look at the main connector, it is missing the housing and looks like the wires are attached directly to the pins??

Can you post a log of it running and your tune.

The same company (gaugeart) makes a Link compatible one: https://gaugeart.com/product/gaugeart-can-gauge/ Also a couple of similar competing devices: https://perfecttuning.net/en/gauge/68-universal-gauge-linkg4.html http://www.btigauges.com/link--vipec.html You can also use the "AEMnet" gauge if you only want to display a few parameters: http://forums.linkecu.com/topic/8322-x-series-aemnet-can-bus-gauge

The G4's were never locked, only G4+/i series were shipped locked.

Most of them dont actually have a clutch switch from what I remember. But yes, if yours does actually have a clutch switch and you plan to use it for something (flat shift?), then you can move that to DI9 or 10.

The problem is the ecu uses linear interpolation between the cells in any table, yet a thermistor is highly non linear. Since you have such a big gap between the 24°C and 94°C cal points it will be very noticeable. The reason you see difference between voltage Vs ohms cal is because the voltage divider calculation will inverse the non-linearity affect (I suspect the voltage cal will be closer to reality than the ohms in this case). You typically want no more than 10°C break points for a thermistor cal. Pic at the bottom to show the effect, straight lines are your cal, pink line is more like how the sensor would behave. I would suggest you try the pre-defined Hella 6PT calibration as that looks like it matches your sensor reasonably well.

Q3 gives you a divide by 8, Q4 is divide by 16.

DI 1-8 are the ones capable of reading an ethanol content sensor. DI 8 on pin 88 is usually the easiest option on the Evo 9.

Check the 5V out parameter on the runtimes screen, ECU status tab. Check it is showing near 5V. If it is not then you have a short on the 5V power supply somewhere.

Yes, the prime setting is in the fuel pump control folder.