Adamw

Someone has done a typo by the looks, The last two characters should be b7, not 67.

Can you do another log with the start up step set to zero. For some reason in that log there is a whole chuck of data missing, it jumps straight from 200RPM to 1800RPM. Also a copy of your tune would be helpful.

In terms of a fuel control strategy, set load equation source to MAP and use MGP as the axis of the fuel table will be the best choice. You may also need a 4D table spanned with BAP depending how much the lower pressure on the exhaust side of the engine affects the efficiency. I would still run lambda probes if it were me - as a bare minimum at least on test days for logging until I was happy with the fuel mixture control over a range of altitudes. 100LL is not too bad with a max pb content of around 0.56, so you should still see ~500hrs life on a lambda probe.

The Ignition drives are only pulled up to about 6V when off so effectively you have 12V on one side of the LED and 6V on the other so some current will flow. A couple of options you could try: Try connecting the +ve side of the LED to the ign drive and the -ve side to ground, then reverse the activation logic. The LED will then see 0V when "on" and 6V when "off", I think this will then work correctly. Another option would be to leave the LED wired as it is now but add an extra pull up resistor to 12V (on the ecu side) so it has 12V on both sides when off. The 3rd option would be to swap the ignition drive with one of the proper aux outputs which have 12V pull-ups. For instance you could move the fuel pump wire from aux 1 to ign 7 then use aux 1 for the LED.

It will be falling for those since they are designed as a direct replacement for the LS coils which are falling.

What ecu are we talking about - a plug-in ECU by the sounds, which model? The CAN and exp ports are JST XA series (note you need an expensive crimp tool to do them properly), there is only a couple of ECU's that had a wideband socket - I think it is a mini Mate-N-Lok.

To clarify, with a stepper motor a larger base position number means less air/lower idle speed. So it sounds like you have that part right. The "start up step" subtracts from the base position number so it works more like how you expect it to - a larger start up step gives more air. It sounds more like maybe the stepper reset is not happening correctly on power down, is this a supra plug-in ecu or a wire-in ecu? Perhaps you can do a short PC log of a start up so we have some data, - turn ignition on, start logger, then start engine.

I would only increase dwell if you were getting noticable misfires. If it ran fine with the orignal lower dwell then you are only heating the coils more and shortening their life by giving it more dwell.

We might need @Simon to check this, I dont know how to tell if it is a V44 or V88 based ecu. Actually, if you have the ecu powered up you can check the type under help>ecu information, otherwise wait and see what Simon says.

something like this will do it:

I dont know what you are up to here, you said earlier your engine doesnt have infinitely variable VANOS, just the on/off "two state VANOS". You dont need to mess around with any of the VVT stuff, this is just what we call a switched cam. VVT should be set to off and the aux output should be set to "CAM - Switched". The generic missing tooth + Cam pulse 1X or Cam level sync is all you need for the trigger. You cannot control the camshaft in any other way than on/off, fully advanced/fully retarded.

It doesnt look like you have anything in the ecu set up to control a 2nd fuel pump, it must just run all the time. For the coolant temp alarm you can adjust the temp on aux 7 as shown below. It is set for 102°C now.

Ok, your layout works for me: https://youtu.be/NqQ_Zk6rSp8

Have you actually tried it live? I dont think there is any setting related unless the global zoom/focus has an effect - I have never noticed. That video I attach was just done with the default PC Link settings & layout file. Can you attach your layout file, Ill give it a try.

Correct, stock distributor is fine as a trigger for full sequential & COP.

You would be best to use speed as gear detection cant work when the car is not moving or the clutch is slipping. Set up like below. You may also need to add a second condition such as "RPM >5000" so that it doesnt turn on when you are driving around on the road sedately but try just with speed initially as it will probably be ok.

Im pretty sure what you are asking for is exactly how it works by default, except the displayed data length is about 5 seconds like you originally requested. Here is a video of a live time plot running showing a timer that resets every 4.5 seconds to hopefully show how it works: https://youtu.be/NrbqneS2ftA

Yes, you will need the matching 36-2-2-2 crank wheel to run any of the AVCS cam options.

Are you using a time plot? That's exactly how mine works by default, I get about 5 seconds of data then it starts scrolling. I think only the "navigator" view shows the whole record from the start like you describe?

You can connect CAN 1 to the same bus and that will give you another 6 ID's. That will add another termination resistor into the bus but I have done it a couple of times and it worked ok.

I can give you some very basic info. You will need a Thunder for the two throttles. The throttle motors need to be modified to bypass the CAN bus module, so the ECU connects to the internal motor connections directly. The coils need to be wired in wasted spark pairs. You need to fit a two wire idle valve or build a small circuit to allow the 3 wire valve to be controlled by a single aux output (contact Link tech support for this circuit). Aux output and DI set up for the Vanos is as per the S65B40 set up info in the help file.

It is not possible to decode them all since they are sent as bit fields. The stream below will give you the common errors for Lambda 1 using the CAN DIG inputs (you can view these on the runtimes screen). Set it up with ID 431, extended format. CAN DIG 1 will indicate "AFR1 Ready" CAN DIG 2 will indicate "AFR 1 Heater open Error" CAN DIG 3 will indicate "AFR 1 VM Error" and so on down the list. The LED's on the device give pretty much the same information so Im not sure how useful it is. AEM Errors ID431.lcs

This is not an engine I know well, but if the cam has the "half moon" type wheel and it has the "infinitely variable VANOS" then you need to use the BMW M52 trigger mode (and also the M52 VVT mode). To improve the resolution of the "single cam tooth", these modes instead uses both the rising and falling edges to effectively give the ECU two teeth per cam rev.

Pin 4 is on the left, pin 1 on the right. Pin 4 is the main power ground so needs to be decent sized wire. Pin 2 is secondary ground so can be smaller. Ground both to cyl head. Pin 3 is the ign signal from ECU. Pin 1 is +12V, again needs to be decent wire. Dont give these too much dwell, they pull about 16A at 2.5ms, I usually stick around 1.8ms which is about 8A.