Adamw

Sorry Im not sure I understand what you are asking. All of our G4+ ECU's that have knock control functionality in the firmware (such as Storm, Xtreme etc) already have the audio hardware built in, you connect the knock sensor directly to the dedicated knock input pin(s) on the ECU, no extra hardware is needed.

A map attached from a 20XE I tuned. This was an ITB race engine so much of it probably wont be much use to you but it did have the stock 60-2 crank and wasted spark ignition so trigger setup should be close for you. 35mm intake valve new cams.pclr

Provided it is actually a G4+ WRXV1-2 ecu that you have then I can assure you it is. It is not listed in the pinout because it is not a user configurable input or output, it is dedicated to knock only.

I notice in your screenshot above your camshaft position doesnt go below 15deg. I think this is due to your tooth offset table and maybe the trigger 2 offset are not correct. The first cell of the tooth offset table should always be zero. Subtract 14 deg from all the numbers in your tooth offset table and add 14 deg to your trigger 2 VVT offset.

https://www.linkecu.com/products/ecu-comparison-chart/ The Atom and Monsoon dont have knock control capability, only the Storm and upwards. The knock window and knk feedback functions that you see in the aux outputs and DI's is of no use in the Atom or Monsoon as it has no knock control function in the firmware to generate or use these I/O.

If you have an Atom it has no knock control functionality.

The Link MXS dash has a software switchable terminating resistor built-in. So you can either use that or fit an external one at the end of the bus and leave the one in the dash turned off.

You will need a single tooth on the cam for the 18T crank to work. Cut off either one.

What ECU do you have?

Note, My original post has been edited after I had another look. I initially suggested a holden trigger pattern but later realised this will be less successful than the generic multitooth/missing in this case: As per Brads advice you need to swap the polarity on the crank sensor. Multitooth/missing mode with cam level sync mode will probably work initially, I think once you have VVT working and the cam advances more than about 30deg this sync mode may give problems, you will have to try it and see. For VVT you will have to use "user defined" mode. There are instructions how to set this up in the help file.

It appears due to his wrong settings the trigger scope hasnt captured a full 760deg in this case. He says he has 18teeth on the crank (should see 36 for 2 revs) but we are only seeing 5 or 6 in that scope, so you are not seeing the full picture. @400s The main problem in your settings is you have trig 2 sync mode set to "Crank pulse 1X", it needs to be set to "cam pulse 1X".

Yes, sorry for my earlier reply which probably caused confusion. For some reason I read "AEM speedo" rather than "Autometer". The AEM ones output CAN but the autometer is a traditional signal.

Normal practice is coils/ignitors should be grounded to the cylinder head and as per Stevies comment the sesnor grounds should be connected to ECU sensor ground only. These are the first things I would fix.

IGF is not needed. If you do you will still have to splice all those wires together some other way.

I believe Simon has answered most of your query via email. The connector in your picture is a Bus or splice connector. Basically it connects a whole lot of wires together. Some have two seperate buses inside which it looks like yours might. At a guess, the black wires may be something like sensor grounds and the brown maybe 5V or 12V.

You can add a 4D table if you like with TPS delta on one axis to remove fuel only when throttle is quickly closed, but even with no fuel going in at all you will still have the initial fuel evaporating of the port walls which will give a rich spike. Why are you concerned about AFR when the throttle is closed?

Yes that should be fine. It’s odd that diagram doesn’t show any connection to the ecu.

Set the pull-up to 1Kohm internal.

Im not too sure of your question or what your tuner is on about. The G4 ecu logging is a bit limited in that is records a fixed set of channels which doesnt include the individual cylinder knock levels. It does log knock threshold and global knock level however. If you want more detail you can PC log to get all parameters. Has this map actually been loaded into an ECU? It doesnt look like the knock control is set up correctly, possibly because this hasnt been in a live ECU? Knock control needs to be set to "internal". Knock ign trim cyl 1 table needs to be zeroed out (might do this automatically when you load into an ECU)? Knock target table needs to be set up.

Yes it appears to be some type of interference getting into the trigger circuit. You said earlier that you had connected sensor ground to chassis ground, that is the first thing I would undo. Does it have resistor spark plugs? What sort of coils does it have? Where are the coils grounded?

The deadtime table has fixed breakpoints in 2D mode. Set it to 3D mode and you will be able to adjust the axes however you like (you can still turn off one axis to make it 2D).

CAN 2 port on many of the plug-ins has a 12V output on the CAN port to power a dashboard etc. So if you connected the laptop to CAN2 you could definitely have damaged the laptop. It wouldnt expect it to hurt the ECU though, if the ecu doesnt power up it may have just blown the main fuse.

Yes, same effect. You can also use the dual fuel table and set it to overlay mode.

Rolling anti lag is called latched launch control in Link. Go to the launch control settings and set it to latched Launch RPM. Im not sure what you mean by "hold throttle position" though, you would usually be WOT for rolling launch. The launch control is just used to maintain the speed/RPM that you were doing when you hit the button.

You can connect the speedo to the ECU via CAN. Some pics below from one I have set up for someone else in the past. Make sure when you choose the "LF Wheel" parameter when adding it to the stream that you have the receive filter turned on. Not sure what you mean here. Assuming the transbrake is controlled by the ECU then put LF wheelspeed<10kmh as one of the conditions on the transbrake aux output.