Adamw

That is a narrowband oxygen sensor, you cant use this to measure the air-fuel ratio useful for tuning, it can only be used like a rich/lean switch. It cant tell you how rich or lean you are, only if you are richer than 14.7 or leaner than 14.7.

Assuming a LEM G3 box (not a Link plus or plugin) It will need either a completely new engine loom or at least significant additions to the existing wiring. The LEM G3 had only 26 wires, the Fury has 68!.

The ECU is not applying any cut. More likely an ignition misfire or fuel pressure or similar. You have no lambda connected so we have no clue how close fueling is to correct but there is nothing obviously wrong in the log.

The brown wire is the narrowband output by default, normally the yellow wire is the wideband output. Have you re-programmed your device? Also, there are two versions of the LC1, early versions had 7 wires, later had only 6. The earlier one had a separate analog ground that needed to be connected to sensor ground. Yep, it sounds like the trigger offset is 360deg out. Open the set base timing screen and add or subtract 360 from your current offset (make sure you hit enter so the number turns blue). The knock input is a dedicated input, you just need to set knock control mode to "On knk- internal", then set up all the basic knock settings.

There is no difference between the Vipec & Link data streams so that is not your problem. Some other users have had difficulty with the later versions not connecting on some specific phones/tablets. Try installing an older version from here: https://apkpure.com/realdash/com.napko.RealDash/versions

I would suggest you start by logging a hot start and posting that and your tune file here. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_P1LRANeO4A

https://youtu.be/_P1LRANeO4A

The default limit control range is 200rpm, that means the limiter will start to cut 200rpm before the set limit.

A V4 should have a hall effect sensor according to our manual.

Trigger error means the ECU has received a signal from the cam or crank sensor that it didnt expect, but that doesnt always mean it is related to the cam or crank sensor - it could for instance be the cam belt has slipped so the cam tooth is occuring ion the wrong place or it could be something like electrical interference that is inducing random voltage spikes into the trigger signal. An oscilloscope capture allows you to check for many of these with just one picture. The reason I ask about resistor spark plugs is the Evo ignition system can generate a crazy amount of noise without them and will often cause trigger error.

In all of these logs you are still bouncing off the RPM limit after you change gear. In the pic below the dip in the blue TP trace is your gear change, you can see the RPM limiter is still acting after that for some time. You either need to increase your limiter or turn on the advanced limiter settings and increase the exit decay rate so that the limiter is removed quicker after RPM drops.

Yes, you have some serious trigger errors going on, it looks like almost everytime you go above about 3800RPM. You might need someone with an oscilloscope to get us a capture of the cam and crank signals to get to the bottom of it. What model evo is it? Make sure it has resistor spark plugs fitted.

Did the car misfire during any of those logs? The only thing I see is you are hitting the RPM limiter at the end and holding it on the limiter for quite some time.

It looks like it was unlocked about 2 hours ago by a company in NZ called R's Garage.

Yes, injectors are supplied a common +12V source and the ECU grounds each injector individually. Here is a example of what I think you are proposing (only 4cyl to save time): In this pic above my switch is only supplying 12V to the "B" injectors so you would think only the B injectors are getting power. But here's what happens for instance when injector drive 1 is grounded but Inj drive 2 isnt: As expected current will take the green path, flow from the switch, through the blue wire, through injector 1B to the ECU inj 1 drive (injector 1B will be on): But if you think about it more, there is also a path through 1A, 2A & 2B as 2B is also connected to 12V and in a round about way back to Inj drive 1 at the same time (magenta path). These possibly wont have enough current going through them to make them open but they are certainly going to be doing weird stuff like closing slower etc.

It will be best to do a PC log to try to capture the event, then we will have some clues to work on. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_P1LRANeO4A There are possibly a couple of clues to problems in the ECU statistics. It shows you have hit the MAP limit 12 times (boost cut), it also shows injector duty cycle is way beyond 100%.

Yeah the simulator is very flaky the few times I have played with it. I think you are going to have to get help from AEM on the alarm issue.

I had a quick look and dont see anything obviously wrong. I dont have a dash here to test myself. The only thought I had is a lot of your warnings are triggered by the same input as the alarms so the two may be possibly be overriding or interacting with each other. As a quick test I would try deleting all the warnings to see if the alarms then behave any more reliably. If not I think it is one that needs to be discussed with AEM.

The note at the top of each stream tells him the endianess. Generic dash says Low byte first which is little endian. Race tech says high byte first which is big endian. Bit rate is user configurable but 1Mbit/s is our normal convention for these two streams. The ECU is capable of 100K, 125K, 250K, 500K, 1M.

You would effectively need 8 switches to disconnect 8 injectors from the common power supply. You would be better to have two injector sublooms connected via a single plug, when you want to run the 2nd fuel you unplug one injector loom and plug in the other.

Probably something like this would work the best:

Can you do a quick test to see if we can confirm what it needs. Connect an aux output to your temp gauge. My example below uses aux 4. Set up the timer and aux like my example. This example will make the aux cycle high for 0.03seconds and low for 1.0sec. Try adjusting the "sw off timer" to various times between say 0.5sec and 1.5sec and see if you can control the gauge doing this. If you can then note down what "swofftime" correlates to how many segments displayed.

PDF version attached. All this info is also in the PC Link help file. Link G4 Wiring and Installation Manual.pdf

Yes, the generic dash stream is the most commonly used for displays. Note however it uses a compound message structure that may be more complicated than they like to decode. If they think that is too hard then I would suggest the Race technology one which is a little more basic sequential format. In both cases the ID is user configurable and can be standard 11 or extended 29bit. Our normal convention is ID 1000decimal (0x3E8 hex). So , the race technology stream would use 1000,1001,1002,& 1003. Edit: sorry had trouble getting the images to link correctly. Generic Dash: Race Tech:

I dont think there will be enough current flowing into the DI to power many incandescent lamps. Only about half a mA so you will get a dim glow out of a standard small LED. Can you also mention what ECU you have as some DI's on some of the plug-ins have special circuits added to interface with specific features in the original set up so they are not always "repurposable"