Adamw

Yes, move the engine fan function to a virtual aux (1 in this example). Then change the auxiliary that controls your fan relay to a GP output. Give it 2 conditions, virtual aux 1 on and eng run time more than x seconds. It will then have all the normal fan control conditions/setting but with the added condition that the engine must have been running for 20 seconds.

I will have to ask engineering to confirm some of this. However I first want to understand why you need to do this. What are you trying to control that needs more current?

I would say the knock threshold is set up a little too conservative as there is not much of a margin above the normal engine noise in your log. Also, it has been set up to not take any action - it is only logging knock - not trying to control it by retarding ignition. As for the idle there is no idle recorded in it and there are not enough idle related channels being logged to see the cause. It would be better to do a PC log to capture a fuller picture. I see a couple of settings that are probably contributing though so you could try correcting these initially: Change the AP/TP lockout to about 1%. Set the RPM lockout to about 400RPM. Set the speed lock out to driven wheel speed and 4kmh. With the current settings it will be closing the throttle trying to control the idle when you are still coasting. In the E-throttle target table set the two cells in the Top left to 3%, the current 8% is probably causing the blip when it nearly stalls.

You just need to change the injector flow rate setting in the ecu to match what you have.

The drag race style CO2 control than the OP is asking for here is where you have two solenoids controlling wastegate dome pressure. Made popular from the old AMS-1000 boost controllers. Our boost control is currently linked to MAP rather than a separate pressure sensor which this system needs. The idea of controlling dome pressure instead of manifold pressure is it is apparently more responsive and precise. You only have a small static dome volume to control rather than the large volume pipework and plenum etc which is also highly dynamic. So the control loop is much smaller and you have a much more stable target. I have never seen any back to back testing but I suspect in most situations the final control stability probably doesnt work out much different than what you're doing.

Like this do you mean? You can set the axis of the tables however you like. Hit X on your keyboard for axis setup.

You can set the trim tables up however you like, but an example below would allow CLL to add 15% fuel when above 90%TP or remove 5% fuel when above 90% TP.

I suggest you use the base map supplied in the latest PC Link 5.6.6 as it is tuned using modelled fuel equation so the fuel gauge works correctly. That will allow the car to start and run but you will not be able to take a tune for someone elses car and expect it will give optimum performance in your car. You need to have your car tuned.

Yes, 7Khz would likely be the more correct setting (should see less noise). Normally I have found the TP delta to take care of that effect ok. However to confirm your assumption, yes the engine must operate in that trimmed cell for the "advance delay" time period without any knock detected, then the ecu will start removing that trim at the "advance rate" specified.

It sounds from your description like it might be firing on exhaust stroke. Can you try changing the trigger offset to 360deg and see if that helps. If that doesnt help, can you put a timing light on and confirm that the spark is somewhere close to where it should be. I have seen some evo's before that had the crank trigger fitted back to front which changes the timing by ~60 deg.

The stock trigger system should be fine, we have sold plug-in ecus for the V1-6 Subaru's for over 20 years so there are thousands of the EJ's out there with the early trigger working fine. To change to the later 36-2-2-2 crank wheel you would also need to change the cam wheel to the matching late model 2 tooth wheel. Are you saying your engine currently doesnt have a cam sensor?

I think you are going to have to get an oscilloscope connected to the cam and crank to see what is going on. Do you have the ground and signal connected to the sensors same polarity as the pinouts below (notice they are opposite to each other)?

As far as hardware goes that should be all you need. You will probably need a USB>Serial adapter and download PC Link V2.5 from our website. Manual is here: http://forums.linkecu.com/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=2534

In that log it takes about 1.5 seconds to "sync" (it wont spark until it has synced), it then takes another 1 second until it is running. So 2.5 seconds doesnt sound too bad to me. You should be able to reduce the time to start after it has synced by tuning the starting settings but the initial time to sync may not be able to be improved much assuming that is about as bad as it gets. If you have a log where it needs to crank significantly longer then we can take a look if it is the pre sync or post sync that is the problem.

What is the serial number? If its less that 18000 you have a V-series. The V series does not have OBD2 and cannot use a CAN Lambda.

The Bottle pressure sensor is usually only used to activate the bottle heater when bottle press gets to low as far as I know. Do you have a bottle heater and is that going to be ECU controlled?

They can all go to the same point, just run as seperate wires however. I suspect they orignally were the ground for the injector drives in the OEM ecu. Our ECU does not need those, you can leave those disconnected.

Correct you only check it when the set base timing screen is open so it is locked to the value you are testing. Note you dont need to move the CAS, you can just change the trigger offset number in the software.

If you have an Xtreme or higher level ECU with wideband auto mode CLL you can do it, you cant do it natively with the lower ECU's that just have Stoich mode CLL.

I dont see any reason why there would be no spark from that log, the ECU appears to be happy. If you are sure it sparks on a different trigger mode and not on Subaru mode then I think you are going to have to get a scope capture of the crank and cam signals so we can see whats wrong.

There is nothing wrong with your trigger set up, although it looks like it may have been wrong when you done the trigger scope. A few other problems though - your fuel table was not suitable for modelled fuel equation, I have fixed that in the attached map. Also you had injection mode set to staged which would have prevented all the auxiliaries that are on inj 5-8 from working such as fuel pump etc. For the direct spark wiring, be aware that Ignition output 4 is connected to pins 20,32 & 34, so make sure the other two pins that you are not using for the coil donot have a wire attached. Map attached with some of these fixed. Can you try it. If it still doesnt go, please attach a log of it cranking. 915191161_4G63t05_05.2019B.pclr

Can you do a PC log of it cranking and starting.

Was this with the "set base timing" screen open and the "lock timing to" set to 20?

Is it wet or dry nitrous? Just on/off type or PWM? How do you want it controlled? What is the pressure sensor for?

can you do a short log of it cranking and attach that and a copy of your tune. Here's how: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_P1LRANeO4A