Adamw

Ok, heres a bit of info on the power circuit to help you diagnose: The main power grounds are pins 107,108,116,10,20. Our ECU doesnt need all of them but check at least a couple of those have good continuity to ground. Pin 45 is a 12V "ignition on" signal from the ignition switch - the ecu doesnt use this for power but when pin 45 is live (12V), a mosfet inside the adaptalink (think of it like a relay), connects pin 16 to ground. Pin 16 is the trigger to the main ECCS relay coil. when pin 16 is grounded by the ecu, the ECCS relay should engage and then supply 12V to pin 49 & 59. Pin 49 & 59 is the main power supply to the ecu and the ecu will then power up.

Assuming you've got the WRX104+ ecu then I would use DI8 (pin D8). This was originally the "start signal" so is not important - the only thing the ecu uses it for is the pre-crank prime. You can change the pre-crank prime to work in Key-on position rather than start position so no real loss.

If you have a Monsoon with a built-in MAP sensor then I would probably plug it to keep it in good condition. Make sure the equation load source is set to BAP and turn off the MAP sensor to prevent anything like a MAP limit or similar causing confusion in the future if it ever gets pressurised.

Yeah, my recollection was the AP1 used something like a 30ms high pulse @ 1-3Hz which would tie in with the AEM example. To support this natively it would need to be added to the firmware which isnt going to happen in the near future due to other priorities in engineering at present. We could make it work using just a couple of virtual auxes and timers in say something like 3 stages - low - medium - hot for instance if that would be good enough for you. The only other workaround I can come up with would be a frequency divider chip to divide a GP PWM down by say 1/12 or similar.

I would start by powering it up on the bench with a battery and a couple of small jumper wires then try to connect laptop as this will quickly eliminate most wiring problems. I dont have much info on the adapterlink but I would expect the only two connections it needs to power up is ground on pin 50 and +12V on pin 49.

must be looking with "man eyes"

If you want help a data log and map would be much easier than interpreting boost control variables from your stories.

Shift-arrow is the easiest. You can also shift-mouse click in two corners but that is less intuitive. Note, highly recommend you read Help>keyboard shortcuts as there are many functions in there that make life much easier.

I think AP1 is frequency based and AP2 is CAN bus. What model do you have? and do you have any info on the signal that is required?

I wouldnt bother, it is easy to move pins if you ever have a need to in future. You are unlikely to need higher frequency .

Development on the V series stopped somewhere around 2013. This bug was discovered sometime after that. It was fixed in G4+ but is something you will have to live with in the V series. I would not be running any car/ecu with inj DC above 90% having said that.

No that doesnt sound like a good idea at all. Low impedance injectors need lots of current to open (this is why they are low impedance...) If you put 3 in series they would only see 1/3 of the current and probably wont open. What are you trying to achieve? What ECU do you have? What size injectors do you need?

So 3 in series? Doesnt sound like a good idea. What resistance are they?

So assuming your car has a speed sensor like a WRX I would expect it to work. Does LF Wheel speed parameter in the software not show any speed when you are driving?

In the V series and old G4 ecu's a fuel cut limiter wont work if your injector duty cycle is above 100%. So you either need to fix the fuel system or change to ignition cut.

So you just want to switch this solenoid on at a certain RPM? Will it need any other conditions to prevent it from shifting during a burnout or anything? What happens when you lift off at the end of the track and RPM drops - is it ok for the solenoid to turn off then?

I think its pretty self explanatory. Use the activation mode setting to trigger it how you like. It could be for instance a switch connected to a DI that you switch on manually, or you can assign it to a virtual aux so it only logs when say RPM is above 4000 or TP is above 50% or whatever you like.

Assuming a 4AGE 20V, your engine doesnt have VVT, you just have an on/off VTC or VTEC style system (function for aux 5 is CAM-Switched). So it is fine as it is.

Hi John, I dont personally agree with this strategy but it was added on request of one of our engineers. The scenario it was designed for was something like the common American V8, 4 barrel throttle body injection kits. These look just like a 4 barrel carburettor but have 4 injectors inside feeding 8 different length port runners. The manifold designs that they use are often terrible for fuel/air distribution and charge robbing etc. The idea with this strategy was to fire all injectors together every TDC to try to get better distribution. The bit I dont agree with is this means you are firing the injectors 8 times every 720deg, that means the pulse width is 1/8 of normal and there are 8 x deadtimes every cycle. I can really only see it working on a low power engine with small injectors and you will need very accurate injector deadtimes. This effect wouldnt be so bad on a 2 cylinder however.

John, As per bsh's comment there in most cases there is nothing to gain from a MAP sensor for an NA ITB application, with two main exceptions: If you have an idle control valve that bleeds air past the throttle blades then a MAP sensor will help account for this and keep AFR more consistent at idle. If you have an air box that is restrictive or sees significant aerodynamic pressurisation then I like to have a MAP sensor connected to the air box to account for that (probably more correctly called an airbox absolute pressure sensor in this case but it its set up as a MAP in the software). Many other brand ECU's dont have a built in baro sensor you will see many people will recommend fitting a MAP (even if not connected to manifold) with ITB's to account for baro changes. Since all Link ECU's have a baro sensor built-in, this is already taken care of - you just need to set the fuel equation load source to BAP.

Try these 884953830_k20Fury2.35strokerefr91801.6barboostVVTtest with eth.pclr 2125151649_wimlinkecu with Eth.aemcd7

Yes, it requires the use of an external E-throttle module: http://dealers.linkecu.com/G4RET Be aware however that for electronic throttle you need 4 analog inputs (2 x TPS sensors, 2 x pedal sensors), The RX ecu only has a total of 5 analog inputs so this is going to be pretty restrictive.

1 wire to the DI, one wire to sensor ground. How many teeth do the target wheels have - if more than about 25 it is not going to work.

Hmm, thats an odd one. If you open up the map that is giving you trouble and go to "ecu information" does it show the same serial number as the ecu that you are loading it in? Can you try locking it with a password then unlocking it again?

The Multifuel warmup enrichment table needs the multifuel blend ratio table to work as far as I know. You could achieve the same effect though just using a 4D or 5D fuel table I think? Or put a more suitable axis such as eth % on your single warmup table?