Adamw

If you check the resistance in ice water and again in boiling water and post those here I will tell you if it matches any of the built-in calibrations.

What's your duty cycle at 140Kpa? As per DavidV's comments above once you are over about 25% inj DC, injector timing will have very little influence. At 50% DC you injector is open for one whole crankshaft revolution... In most cases Y axis is not needed, ideal injector timing will be related to transport time (RPM) and intake resonance (again RPM related). If you have VVT then cam position would be a good Y axis. If you have staged injection with vastly different primary/sec locations then choose something that reflects the % secondary.

I have a vague recollection that the pinout posted above by Scott may be wrong. Please check this one:

That coil does not look like it has a built-in ignitor, do you have an ignitor connected?

My suggestion would be about 12 teeth for a good balance between resolution and max speed. Hall or reluctor is fine, but hall is often easier to mount and can work down to lower speeds. Have a look at a ZF GS1005, a simple M12 threaded body.

Im not sure if you are asking a question or making a statement? Of course the fuel table and ignition tables (and all other tables) will need to be tuned to your specific engine before it will run well. It sounds like you dont even have a good grasp of the basic fundamentals yet so Im reluctant to advise you touch it yet. I would not attempt to tune a turbo car with this level of understanding. I would suggest you start by doing something like the low cost EFI tuning fundamentals course here to get a better understanding of the theory behind it: https://www.hpacademy.com/courses/efi-tuning/ If you try to tune without a good understanding of the basic theories then it will just end in disappointment.

What ECU do you have? Is it an i series Vipec? There is a problem with our latest USB driver on windows 7 & 8 so you can try the attached one (uninstall the existing one first). ViPEC USB Drivers.zip

Also, if you are using our plug-in ECU then the speed sensor should already be set up on DI1 and working by default.

Ign 3 is ok, but Ign 4 is interconnected with another circuit that could make it behave erratically. DI3 is also linked to the relay control circuit on Ign 4. So for instance if you put 12V into DI3 or turn on its pull-up resistor you will find ign 4 wont work.

As well as the arming threshold issue that Simon mentions, judging from your large calibration number on the front I would say your frequency (tooth count) is too high also and you are going to "top out" the frequency before you reach max speed of the car. One of these connected to each front wheel should take care of both issues: https://www.vems.com/vr-to-hall.html These have an adaptive arming threshold so work right down to about 0.25V and they have a 1/8 frequency divider built in to effectively reduce the tooth count.

Can you do a quick log and attach that and your tune file. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_P1LRANeO4A

It doesnt sorry. Effects unknown, but my guess is it will probably still work but any shifts under power will be pretty sloppy.

Hang on, the Evo 3 is wasted spark - it should only use Ign 1 & 2 by default. You cant use Ign 4 on the Evo 3 plug-in as it has extra hardware connected to it to control the main relay circuit.

Download the 2 stream files I have attached. Make sure the AEM device is set up for "mode 1". Set up like this: mode: user defined, bit rate: 500k. channel 1 = receive user stream 1, ID 31, format extended. Channel 2 = receive user stream 2, ID 431, extended. Now go to the streams tab, click on stream 1 in the left panel so it is highlighted, then click "load stream", load in the stream 1 LCs file. Do the same for stream 2 except choose the stream 2 LCs file. The AEM widebands will come into pc link as Lambda2-5. AEM 4ch stream1 ID31.lcs AEM 4ch stream2 ID431.lcs

Not really but if that scope capture was just cranking or idling then you will probably find they will even out at higher rpm. You may have to lower the arming threshold a bit in the low rpm cells if it is causing trigger errors.

It is not possible with any aftermarket controller that I know of at this time. The two ecu brands mentioned above still require fully functioning matching ABS unit and all other related CAN devices from the car the DSG came from. I believe one of them is working towards making it functional without the other devices. We aren’t working on it at all yet as we would have to buy a fully functioning car to reverse engineer it.

No you will not need the external module. Although that is another way around it. Once the wires are added you can connect the throttle directly to the ecu. On some of our plug-in ecus where adding E-throttle is a common mod (mostly rally cars for antilag) we have made Aux 9 & 10 outputs available on the expansion connector to allow users to connect an e-throttle motor easily. (only aux 9 & 10 are capable of E-throttle without external module). However E-throttle has never been a common request on the S13 ecu so although it has the hardware onboard to control aux 9 & 10, it doesnt actually have the aux 9 or 10 outputs available on any external pins/connector. So basically we have to solder a couple of wires on to the circuit board to bring those outputs out and make them available. There's also a couple of other mods needed to the circuit board to supply power to the E-throttle driver. The other option is as you mentioned the external e-throttle module.

Huh, did you watch the video? I didnt set any x1 scaler?

Ok, you are on very old firmware. It is original form the traction disable switch was designed to be from a momentary button like most cars have on the dash - one press for on another press for off. In newer firmware this function was made more flexible to allow it to work with toggle switches like you have. So update to the latest firmware, then in traction control settings you will have a new setting "traction disable switch", set it to toggle and you will be away.

What are you wiring to the diagnostic port? are you sure you actually have the tacho wire?

Wire the injectors in pairs as below, leave the injection mode set to sequential and you will get what we call semi-sequential. For the ignition wire the coils in pairs as below and set the ignition mode to wasted spark. Cyl 1 & 6 to Ign 1. Cyl 2 & 5 to Ign 2. Cyl 3 & 4 to Ign 3.

Ok, so there appears to be two main problems. So this appears that this car has not been wired for the proper stepper reset after key off so it has been set to do the reset at key on. This means you need to first turn the key on, then wait about 5 seconds for the stepper motor to reset before starting. In your log it looks like you have started the engine before it had reset. The second problem looks like they are commanding the stepper motor to move further than it actually can which will mean it just bottoms out fully closed and loses position. The GM stepper motors from memory can only move about 200stepos but your map is commanding 560. That suggests the throttle blade is probably too far open. So it is going to need a lot of work, idle control will basically need to tuned from scratch. I would start by getting the throttle blade in a more suitable position. To do this, first warm the engine up with the settings as they are now then shut it down. Close the throttle screw so the throttle can completely seal closed. Turn power on and change the max clamp to 200 and min clamp to 0, do a store, power off again. Power back on, give it 5 seconds to reset then start, you will need some pedal to keep it running. Adjust throttle screw so that it idles on its own but say at about 100RPM lower than desired. With it idling away by itself then adjust the cells around normal running temp in the base position table (smaller number = more RPM), they will be smaller than 200 (max clamp). Do a store after any changes. The next day you can do a cold start and adjust all the other cells in the base position table as the engine warms up moving through each cell.

There are several WRX base maps in PC Link. These will get you running. From there you will need to get it tuned. No one elses map is safe to use as it is very unlikely they have exactly the same fuel, intercooling, turbo, comp ratio, temp sensor locations, etc, etc as you.

PC Link Help file.

Try this: https://1drv.ms/v/s!AiYbYlZQuRHPpVCpt3l86jSF1RJj