Adamw

Unfortunately the Cruise control status and cruise light functions dont currently work over CAN.

Wire it the same as you would an ecu. Sensor ground and the shield spliced together at the knock bock connector. Signal to the top pin, ground/shield to the bottom.

As Richard Hill mentioned earlier the aux outputs are a ground switch. You will need to wire your relay so it can be switched with a ground signal. There are no high side drive outputs on the Altezza ECU.

The tacho is not working because you have both aux 1 and aux 5 assigned to tacho. Turn off whichever one you are not using. The Boost valve is not working correctly probably because aux 6 & 7 are still set to ISC stepper drive, when in stepper mode aux 5-8 are all sequenced together. Turn aux 6 & 7 off.

The only combined oil press/temp sensors I know of are the relatively new Bosch ones: https://www.bosch-motorsport-shop.com.au/liquid-pressure-temp-combined-sensor-10-bar-140-de For the MAC valve, there are a few similar part numbers that will work, a common one is 35A-ACA-DDBA-0BA. Make sure you get it from a MAC dealer as there are many very poor quality fakes about.

The "Hold - RPM lockout" just means your engine is running below the RPM lockout setting. This is usually done to prevent the VVT from working when the engine is idling/oil pressure is low.

Triggerscope looks ok and there are no trigger errors showing in your map. Most of your settings look ok. The master fuel of 13ms suggests you have quite big injectors (~700cc)? If your injectors are stock then that master fuel will need to be quite a bit bigger. Also, just FYI, if you change to modelled fuel you will need to import a more appropriate fuel table (the one from the Monsoon map is a good starting point). Really need to do a log of a start attempt.

Your camshaft signal is inverted compared to what we expect for the Swift V2 trigger mode. Some suzukis have a proximity sensor that inverts polarity at a certain RPM. Try the J20A trigger mode. Set both trig 1 & 2 to hall and both to falling. The offset will likely be different.

There are no user definable PID strategies for general purpose outputs, I cant think of any way you could do this. Only open loop based on a 3D duty cycle table. I dont believe there are any plans to offer such a device at this time.

As per Simon's advice, you need to set the error low to 0.00.

What specific ECU do you have? As far as I remember all of the G4+ plug-in ECU's with on board MAP sensor had a sensor that is rated for 4bar (i.e 3 Bar boost).

The IQ3 manual should explain the config process.

There is something wrong with your wastegate/turbo/plumbing/boost valve. You are in closed loop mode so the numbers in the wGate DC table is just the starting point that the ecu uses as it enters stage 2. The ECU is winding more DC in to try to bring your boost up to target but the boost is not responding. Either there is a big leak or the wastegate is stuck open.

CJ is correct, your trigger 2 is incorrect. Trigger 1 was already correct in your triggerscopes above. You need to attach the tune file or a PC log to see the arming threshold. I would follow CJ's suggested values.

The "find devices" tool is only to find Link CAN lambdas, it wont find any 3rd party devices. You will need to set up the ECU as per the IQ3 instructions in the help file and in the dash software you will also need to change the ECU type to Link and then do the "Read Vnet config" process.

You can use either CAN 1 or 2 at the Link end. You can also use either CAN 1 or 2 at the Motec end but their normal convention is to use CAN 2 for the ECU.

I dont see much wrong in the log now. There are a couple of instances of 700-1000RPM showing in the log. Is it actually firing and trying to start?

If you are not using the ignition drives on the expansion connector then you can use one of those for the boost solenoid. Otherwise if you are already using the ign drives for coil on plug then the best bet will be Aux 5 (pin 19) on the main connector. This was originally for the fuel pressure solenoid, not normally used in performance stuff.

Definitely important to fix this. Dont worry too much about this, it is fine as it is. Voltage output is influenced by tooth count also, so wheels with less teeth always output lower voltage. Im pretty happy with it as is.

I suggest just export/import the Monsoon fuel table. Keep the rest of your map as is. Tell him he should be using the help file if in doubt, the settings and process is pretty well explained. You can hit F1 for an context sensitive help on almost any setting in the ecu or software. I will paste a copy of the multi-fuel set up and tuning guide below.

Here is one to get you somewhere close. 2JZ-VVTi Start up.pclr

As others have said its a start from scratch scenario. In traditional mode the fuel map represents fuel flow with a few other dynamic factors "baked in" to the numbers. In modelled mode the fuel table represents air flow. Although the two will have a similar shape they will usually be a completely different range of numbers.

Start with a trigger scope capture at moderate RPM, it may give some clues. A common theme I see on RB's is ground problems creating noise on the trigger inputs. Here is a related article: https://www.hpacademy.com/technical-articles/staying-grounded/ An economical fix for the RB trigger is often the NZ Wiring kit: https://www.nzwiring.com/index.php/product/trigger-kit/ Many tuners over here if they have a RB that is giving trigger issues they just fit one of these kits as it usually works out cheaper than spending a couple of days trying to diagnose the factory system. Even though it is still a cam mounted trigger it eliminates a most of the fundamental issues with the stock CAS: It is brand new so eliminates the 30 year old optical sensor. It is reluctor so its voltage output increases with RPM, this means the signal to noise ratio is much better than the optical and arming threshold will take care of most electrical noise. It bolts directly to the cam sprocket eliminating the back lash that the factory spline drive system has. It does not connect the sensor ground to the body/engine ground like the stock sensor does which often gets around the GTR ground problems.

It depends on cylinder size and fuel, but with 1050cc injectors on a typical size engine you are probably not going to be operating in the non linear region very often (or at all) so may not make a lot of difference. Still, Might as well use it if you’ve got it.

The smallest increment is 0.0016ms for this table so it will jump to the nearest 0.0016