Adamw

It will be fine wired directly to the ecu. Just make sure the +12V supply to the solenoid is ignition switched.

I replied to your post on HP Academy, but for the benefit of others here, Im pretty sure the coils need an ignitor.

All of them that I have seen match the BMW M52 one in the help file.

Yes, I have seen a few guys run the stock flywheel without trouble. That note in the manual is many years old and no one really remembers what the problem was for that note to be added. Can you attach a trigger scope.

I have never tried with a V series but from memory it has similar PWM and timer functionality as a G4+ which doest it ok. Have a go at setting it up similar to my example in this post:

The Haltech CAN hub is just a dumb device used to connect the branches together. Basically the same functionality as one of these special hub devices: So, yes you can use it to connect any CAN devices to the CAN bus, but you will still need to program the ECU to understand the Haltech devices language. Last time I checked they wouldnt give it out. So I suggest you stick to the CAN devices that are covered in the help file (you can still use the CAN hub though).

No, at present you cant log the actual commanded DC output of a GP PWM table. The best you can do is log the two parameters that are on the axes of the PWM table and when viewing a log the pink cross hairs will show where it was working.

Can you do a short PC log of it running for a couple of minutes and attach that and a copy of your tune. That may give us some clues. Here is a video showing how to set up and run the log: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_P1LRANeO4A

I only have a basic understanding of this type of thing and have never had to research it much so I will just give my thoughts... Inductors try to resist current change. When power to an inductor is suddenly switched off, the inductor will try to maintain the current flow at the same level it was. So you dont need to allow for inrush etc. If the motor was pulling 20A when the power was switched "off", the inductor would try to keep pushing 20A around the circuit (diode). PWM throws a whole lot more complication into it as you still need it to "turn off" quickly. This is where my experience is lacking, those relays above from what I hear dont work much above about 100Hz anyway so it shouldnt be too difficult. If you can find a Schottky with a high enough reverse voltage (60V+) I would lean towards that option.

To answer your question, you do not need a BOV for either 2 step or Antilag. However, it sounds like you are mixing up some terminology here. "Antilag" in most ECU's is a strategy used to keep turbospeed up during high RPM throttle closed overrun conditions (i.e it is only active when the throttle is closed and RPM is high - say for instance lifting off coming into a high speed corner). Typically this would only be used on rally cars, as it generates a lot of heat all the hot components give much shorter life and also you have no vacuum for brakes etc so it needs significant modifications to support it.

The VCT on a SR20 doesnot have a position sensor, it is just an on/off system like the old honda VTEC. All you have it the aux output switched on or off at a certain RPM

Unfortunately I dont see a way to make that work without a PDM or another smart device in between. The reason is because it doesnt have any latch/toggle type function. The button presses are only momentary (on when the button is pressed) - the item would turn off again as soon as you let go of the button.

From what I can see they look pretty similar. Fuel pump is on pin 18 on both. As you mention the IAC may be different. It is pin 106 on the s13 ecu and pin 4 on the 300Z ecu. Another difference to research here is the ISC was controlled by an injector drive on the s13 ecu (with its own separate flyback diode) - this is typically done is situations where the relay is live all the time and would backfeed if connected to a regular aux output. On the 300Z ecu the ISC is controlled by a normal Aux output so you may have to change that if the 12V side of the idle valve is hot all the time. The other difference I see is Pin 6 is AC clutch on the S13, it is a fan on the 300Z and is also linked to pin 19.

If you open the runtimes screen and go to triggers/limits, when cranking does the trig 1 & 2 signal turn green and say yes? If not try pulling the dizzy out and spinning it by hand or with a cordless drill. If you dont get any trigger signal then, it suggests you have a wiring problem.

It will work fine as you have drawn it or as Ducie has drawn it. My understanding of the flyback diode is it needs to be rated for the same current as the motor would normally pull and a common rule is at least 5x the normal working voltage, a 1N4004 meets the voltage requirement but is only rated for 1A.

Toyota distributors often output very low voltage at cranking speed. Set the arming threshold like below for both trigger 1 & 2. Report back if you get RPM displayed with that change.

There is not really enough parameters logged to get a full picture of what is going on, but I dont see anything that the ECU is doing that would cause the high idle at start up. The Idle valve position is sitting pretty constant at 40% when the RPM drops from 3700 to 1200RPM - in fact the valve is opening further when the RPM drops. Has anyone had anything apart? Any chance the open/close wires have been swapped on the valve? What happens if you start the engine with the valve unplugged?

Ok, sorry for the delay, I just had time to look at your file closer and give it some thought. Basically I think you have it set up pretty right as is. It should do what you have described above. I dont think you will need the 4D ignition that I mentioned as I was mistakenly thinking you also wanted a variable amount to torque reduction between 40 & 85%TP. I suspect the 90% cut you have set in the driven upshift cut will be way too much and will feel like you have hit a wall. Start at about 40% and see how it feels. You will also need to experiment with the torque reduction time and introduction time - my feeling is it will probably want a shorter reduction time and longer introduction. Also, if you update to the latest firmware you wont have to use DI1, you can trigger the gear shift event directly from Aux 1 or a virtual aux.

The next test I would do is this: First make sure error low is set to 0.0V and error high is set to 5.0V on the AN Volt that is set to MAP. Next, unplug the MAP sensor, use a paperclip or similar to bridge the 5V wire to the signal wire at the MAP sensor plug, if ECU and wiring is ok the ECU should show 5V. Try the same again but bridge the signal pin to the gnd pin, ecu should show 0V.

Try this, I got all of your list in there except battery volts. 190803Tune with Haltech CAN.pclr

There is no setting that can disable Inj1 in isolation. If the injector clicks with the injector test then that proves wiring and ECU is ok. Assuming there are no trigger errors then Inj 1 should be commanded PW when running. Have you checked compression?

If you open the set base timing screen again, is the new value still there or has it returned to zero?

Are you sure you hit enter when changing the offset? The field should turn blue if you have done it correctly.

Yep, the branded gaugeart devices are locked to that particular brand ECU in the firmware. The Link CAN is flexible enough to be able to duplicate the Haltech stream however there is a limitation of six ID's (haltech uses many more in their full stream). If you attach a copy of your tune and a quick list of the channels you would like to be able to display I should be able to set it up (may not be able to give you the full channel list that is avail in the gauge).