Adamw

Current list of analog input cal table units is below. Why are units important for this item? Is it for a tablet dash or something?

In that case the recommended option would be to do it as per Richard Hills advice - keep it simple and only add complexity where it is needed. PWM is just going to add complexity and more tuning with no real benefit.

George, Im suspicious you may have a hardware issue from your description, some of those early atoms had a relatively sensitive USB circuit that could be damaged relatively easily (I cant remember if that was on the G4 or G4+ atom though). Contact Link tech support on Monday for them to confirm and advise.

That doesnt mean anything to me without knowing what side of the road you drive on. It may be clearer to use Lefthand/Righthand. Note I dont work for Link, and its not Links job to set up your ECU. Happy to help here on the forum in my own time when I have time however.

As for your "resolution" request, it sounds like you are talking about vertical zoom? ALT+UP/DOWN will zoom your vertical axis.

What are you trying to achieve by PWM? Is it a noisy pump? Remember when you are idling and cruising fuel pressure is naturally lower so pump current is lower all on its own without any intervention.

I’m not at a pc now, but it sounds like you are looking at the pinout for the wrong pcb version in pc link. The info in the printed doc and pc link should be the same as the manual is automatically generated from pages in the help file. The two fans connected to ign 4 just switch on together - effectively connected to the same pin. You can use any of those 3 ign4 pins for your coil, just have to make sure nothing is connected to the two you don’t use. the ecu has onboard baro so doesn’t use the factory one. The cat light pin can be used for something else if you wish.

MAF is normally connected to pins 21 or 9 in the HKS looms. Some of their looms have a seperate MAP plug already there but Im not sure about the JZX loom. There is unlikely an existing unused wire for the flex sensor, you can connect that to any DI from 1-8.

Yes. Load it into your (live) kurofune and all the Kurofune features will be assigned. You will then need to re-assign any inputs and outputs that dont match your wiring and if you are using an HKS adapter loom you will need to change the firing order to 123456.

I dont think there is any harm in leaving the lockout at 4000. If you wanted to diagnose further, really the next step would be to get an oscilloscope capture of the crank and cam at idle and say 5000RPM, that would usually give you some good clues where the issue is coming from. It could be something as simple as the cam timing moves slightly out of the allowable range at high RPM for example - I have seen this before with engines that have been "decked" significantly or have mismatched heads/cases.

Another thing you can try is set the trig2 lockout to below the point where your trigger issue often occurs. The ecu will then ignore the cam sensor above this RPM, if the error is related to the cam sensor or cam timing etc that may help.

There is one of my 1JZ base maps in this thread:

I have seen this on a couple of 2jz’s before, usually just drop the proportional is all it needs.

The Link uses ISO15765 CAN OBD2 which your doc above says is supported. Here are the PID's that the Link ecu supports:

Have you got a log showing the sub and main drifting apart like the original poster, or are you just assuming this is the cause of your tracking error?

I think it is just mis-labelled. The numbers in that table are actually Hz. A number of 100%/Hz in the frequency table will give you 100% pump speed, 20%/Hz in that table will give you 20% speed.

Yes, the speed limiter will be the best option I think if you know the "roll speed" before the event. The "rolling antilag" feature (latched launch mode) uses RPM rather than speed so may not work too well with a auto trans. Set speed limit to ign cut, turn advanced mode on, and experiment with limit ign trim and the control range. Make the exit decay rate something like 20%.

You didnt mention if your 2.8mS is effective or actual PW. I assume effective. If so I would expect halving that will be fine. Note you dont need to change the master fuel number - the ecu takes care of that in its background calculation. So, you can in theory switch between 1 engine cycle and 1/2 engine cycle injection rate without changing any other fuel settings. Most modern injectors will start to get "non-linear" below about 1.5mS, but they are still usually quite repeatable until a good bit lower than that. There are exceptions around though - for instance the old "Indy blues" were terrible at anything less than about 2ms, I suggest just try it and see.

You said you had already installed V3.4, so the driver should already be installed? Is the comlink showing up in device manager or not?

Was the stack dash showing a speed when you were testing it? I would expect if the dash is showing a speed the ecu would.

Antilag is meant to work only when you liftoff from high RPM, it doesnt appear to be how you are testing it in the log. You will need to test it more like how it is intended to be used. Your basic setup looks ok and it appears to work in a couple of areas in your log where the RPM gets high enough. Be aware that your brakes will not work without vacuum so it is very dangerous to use it on a road car unless you have a pedalbox fitted or some other modification to the brake system such as electric vacuum pump.

Do you have a DI engine like all those cars? They dont do anything too special, although their launch control strategy will include significant DBW throttle control as well as the normal ign & fuel cuts but mostly they are not popping and banging like a port injected engine because with DI you can use much more fuel cut without the normal wall wetting delays.

I would just leave it flat like you have it for now. The general idea is at low loads where you dont need much ign energy you drop dwell back so the coils run cool, then only push the dwell up in areas where it is needed - typically with a road car this will be in the peak torque area, 4-5000RPM range.

The 44S ecu is a G1 based ECU so I have moved your post to the G1 section. You will find the manual for the PossumLink 44S in the section at the top labelled "G1 Manuals". You will need to use PC Link V2.5 for this ECU. Im pretty sure the G3 drivers should work ok with the Comlink so check in device manager that the comlink shows up under Ports - COM & LPT. Note from memory the Comlink must be assigned to comport COM1-9. If it is not looking happy in device manager then post back and I will find a driver that should work.