Adamw

A couple of other things to check after loading your monsoon tune into an Xtreme: Turn on the pull-up resistors on AN Temp 1 & 2 - these default to off since the Monsoon didnt have switchable pull-ups. Check all the injector drives that are used for injection are all set to saturated drive mode. Sometimes you will get some that get set to peak and hold.

Most of the plug-in ecus dont have highside drives. The polarity setting just inverts the on/off logic. Matt, there is nothing special about Aux 3 on the GTR plug-in - it should behave as a normal aux. To confirm wiring is correct - If you touch the wire that controls FP relay #2 to ground does the pump turn on?

There is no support for the CAN at this time.

As well as the changes that Leiden made, I would also suggest you make the changes in red below. This will prevent idle ignition kicking in while you are still driving.

Unfortunately I dont think there is a triggermode that will work with this pattern presently. One option would be to grind two of the close teeth off to make it into a "8-1", like my pic below. Another option may be to adapt something like this: http://pe-ltd.com/product/trigger-wheel-2/

VVT looks pretty normal to me. You should post a log of it running though so we can confirm the VVT is actually working as commanded. Throttle response from idle I would suspect is more related to accel enrichment. Your accel settings look quite a bit weaker than what I have needed with a 2J. I will post a compare below, your settings in black or red text, mine in yellow. Also, your ignition timing looks very weak to me - especially for E20. Probably not the cause of your "poor throttle response" depending what you mean by that but it is going to make it drive fairly lethargic. I dont have any tuning experience with the 1JZ specifically, but comparing to a couple of 2J's I have done, my ignition table has up to 10deg more than yours in the low boost areas and those were on pump gas. On top of that you have a 4D ignition table pulling another 6deg out right through the mid range and transient ign retard table pulling another 4 deg out. So some areas you effectively have 16-20deg less advance than what Im used to seeing for a similar engine.

There will definately be interpolation between cells but since the temp channels only have a resolution of 1°C you can possibly set up the axis break points to overcome that - depending on the range of temperatures he wants to cover. I could be wrong, I havent plotted it out to think it through in depth. Otherwise a SSR will be needed so the fan will just ramp up through the short interpolation area.

I suspect it was probably this pic:

You could possibly use a GP PWM (Aux 1-8), have one temp input on each axis, populate the cells with either 0 or 100 in the areas where you want it on or off.

Whats your theory on why fuel and ign cut would be better? There will always be much slower recovery if you cut fuel. When you cut ignition only, since there is still fuel in the cylinder, as soon as you re-enable ignition there is torque available almost instantly. In contrast, if you cut fuel, when you re-enable it the fuel only gets injected into the port on the next scheduled event for the next cylinder, it then has to sit in the port until the next intake stroke, then it gets compressed on the next stroke, and then finally combustion and torque is produced after that. So depending on timing you are usually waiting 3 crankshaft revolutions until you get power again after a fuel cut. Cutting ign and fuel together will have the same delay as cutting fuel only. Have you tried a +ve fuel trim with ignition cut? It seems to work well for most of the cars I work on.

It sounds like one of your configuration files in corrupt. Try copying the attached parameter config into your Link G4+ directory. If that doesnt work a re-install should fix it. DefaultParameterConfig.rtcr

You didnt have a non driven wheel speed set up so that is why speed deactivation did not work. As far as I know the V7-9 does not have a clutch switch connected to the ECU so I have set it up to activate the launch limiter whenever speed is <10Kmh, using virtual aux 1. I have thrown some rough numbers in there as a starting point, it is up to your tuner to keep an eye on things and fine tune it. I have set the launch to 5500RPM, ign at 10ATDC and 10% extra fuel. Make sure you pray to the Subaru transmission god before every launch. LaunchControlsetupfile Rev A.pclr

Not really. It would be more helpful to explain how you want launch control to work and how you want to activate it... Do you just want a 2step limiter while stationary or something that varies based on a timer or wheel speed? How do you want to turn it on/off? Is there a clutch switch or handbrake switch to indicate launch has happened? What are you trying to achieve - improve traction or make more power at launch?

A dead battery will not make the 5v out read incorrectly, only a wiring problem or faulty sensor can do that.

Your TPS is not working correctly at all in either log. Either it is wired wrong or it is faulty. It is only showing either 1.6 or 4.6V - nothing in between. Also there appears to be some other wiring issue as the 5V out sometimes spikes up to 5.5V and this upsets your MAP sensor. Edit: I just noticed your battery voltage drops to 7V in the same areas the 5V spikes so you definitely have a big wiring problem by the looks.

Basic set up instructions are in the help file > G4+ ECU Tuning Functions > CAN > Device Specific CAN Information . RacePak IQ3. If you have the old dash with the 8 pin Deutsch clug on the back then you will need a VNet module - either 230-VM-EFILINK or the universal one 230-VM-EFIUCAN. You will find instruction documents for setting up those modules if you google the part number. If you have the newer "street" dash which has the 34pin superseal connector on the back then you dont need the VNet module, CAN H&L can be connected directly to the ecu. Set up in datalink is much the same as the EFIUCAN module - you still need to set the ecu type to Link, then do a "read Vnet" procedure etc.

For the CAN EGT, I suspect the CAN ID format will need to be set to Normal rather than extended, so try that. As for the EMP I dont see anything wrong in the set up. Has it got a terminating resistor at the end of the bus? Some of the agricultural stuff is fairly fussy with requiring proper termination. You could also try changing the ID to 418324643 which would force it to use the "legacy protocol" - just in case you've been sold a pre 2017 model that doesnt have the new std SAE message format.

Do a trigger scope and attach it here. https://1drv.ms/v/s!AiYbYlZQuRHPmieMTkwQDCXEb2LY

Although your screenshot was taken when offline, the bottom right shows engine kill and ecu hold power are on. Do these turn off when ignition is on?

Give us a log of a start up and a copy of the tune. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_P1LRANeO4A

Just for your info - all the common ones I have seen (garret & BW) have a "divide by 8" circuit built into the connector. I believe this was because back in the day most compressor wheels had 8 blades so it would output one pulse per rev. So your example would actuallly give a frequency of ~2100Hz. So, fine for a Thunder but too high for the smaller ECU's. @Booston If you dont have a Thunder you will have to do something like this:

What do you mean by "it doesnt read", does it show 0% or some other value?

Gear shift control is fairly complex and probably not something that can be explained in a single forum post. Most of the gear shift control settings are quite well explained in the help file. There are some set up examples on the page: G4+ ECU Tuning Functions > Motorsport > Gear Shift Control > Gear Shift Control Examples I suggest you get all the basics set up calibrated and working yourself first - gear barrel position, gear lever force, etc, then post your tune and some logs for help at that stage. As for the strain gauge - most are pretty much the same, just go for a reputable brand. Make sure it has the amplifier built in and a 0-5V output. For a common saloon car length gear lever with the strain gauge in the shift knob you will need something capable of about 12Kg or 120N max load. I have used Holinger and KA Sensors before, both pretty pricey.

I dont ever remember that ECU being marketed as compatible with Auto trans models but I might be wrong. It does appear to have most of the basic trans IO taken care of. I think the most likely cause of your limp mode is pin 11 - Aux 7 which is a "Throttle valve position" signal to the trans. Plug your stock ecu in and measure the voltage on pin 11 at various throttle positions. Then back in the Link ecu you can set aux 7 up as a GP PWM and try to duplicate that signal.

There is no CAN EGT's set up in your tune. I dont see anything obvious wrong in your log, but 25% throttle just to get it to 2400RPM suggests something is not right. Did you check base timing?