Jump to content

Adamw

Moderators
  • Posts

    21,242
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1,382

Everything posted by Adamw

  1. Hmm, are you using the latest PC Link, V5.6.6? Edit: I just tried myself and I get the same error. It will have to wait till Monday now sorry.
  2. Yeah trigger voltages look pretty low, there is also an offset down on trigger 1. Most of the crank teeth barely reach 0.2V so im not sure if it is going to be happy. Maybe a bad ground or something. Try setting both trig 1 & 2 arming thresholds like below and see if we get RPM when cranking.
  3. It should work then. Are you sure you are using the triggerscopee correctly? Hitting capture when the engine is cranking? Does this engine run on the stock ecu?
  4. Also, accel hold needs to be set to 4 or 8 events. With it set to 2, only the first two cylinders will get accel enrichment.
  5. Attached below. 1&2 are sensor ground. 3&5 are supply voltage (I assume 5V) 4&6 are AP sub and main. E-throttle Module Instructions.pdf
  6. What I was getting at is you said you have checked continuity of the trigger wires - So did they have continuity back to pins 9 & 10 or pins 21 & 22?. With the jumper positions you have set the ECU is expecting them to be connected to pins 9 & 10.
  7. Yes, 23 is connected to sensor ground on our ECU. Do you have all the jumpers in the 3 plug or 4 plug positions? The jumpers change which pins the trigger inputs come from so that could potentially explain your symptoms.
  8. As a test for the ECU going offline during cranking, can you try grounding pin C23 with a temporary wire/jumper lead or similar (assuming your jumper is in 2007 position). This will give us an idea which part of the circuit is causing the problem. For the triggers you shouldnt need to do much except set the trigger mode to Subaru V7-10 (jdm). An offset of zero would normally be close enough for it to start and run, but you will want to confirm that with a timing light before putting the engine under any load. As for the timing light connection, you can get special leads as gtihk linked to above, but you dont normally need to get as sophisticated as that depending on what junk you have sitting around. Any old HT lead off a distributor car will do, just poke it up the bottom of the coil and rest it on top of the plug is enough. It doesnt need to be a good connection as the spark will jump to the easiest path to ground. Something like this found on google images:
  9. Hi Cameron, Thanks to your good log engineering found the problem. Here is an explanation from them what was happening: "There is a problem in the charge temperature correction calculation in modelled fuel. When the charge temperature is close to zero the correction for the cooling effect of fuel could take it negative but it was stored as an unsigned number so became very large" So its a combination of the zeros in that area of your charge temp estimate table and your very low IAT that showed up a problem that no one has noticed before. I have a new firmware with this fixed for you to test. I will PM that to you.
  10. Yep. Easiest way to connect it is with an expansion harness. Alternatively, if you are ok with wiring stuff you could connect it to pin 54 on the main header which is DI7.
  11. Ok, did you try the 06/07 jumpers in both positions? As they effect which pins control the main relay. Also to confirm you have the correct ECU, did you check you have no wires on pin A1, A2, A3? The main power circuit works like this: A +12V signal from ignition switch comes in to pin B19. That switches a Mosfet on which then grounds either pin C23 (jumper position 07) or C24 (jumper position 06). These pins are the trigger to the main relay (ground turns the relay on). When the main relay turns on that should supply the main 12V to the ECU via pin A7 and the ECU can then power up.
  12. There's a couple of Motec webinars that will give you a bit of the basic fundamentals: This one: https://youtu.be/SowbD_09b48 A lot of the same stuff is repeated in this one, but about the first half has some good basics: https://youtu.be/2m34nQ4i6KQ In your case above we are sending a compound message, which will make more sense once you have watched these.
  13. Adamw

    Engine Protection

    Thats why you use differential pressure, not gauge fuel pressure. It should remain close to constant regardless of vacuum or boost.
  14. Adamw

    VR4 duel fan wiring

    If you are happy for both fans to turn on/off at the same time then connect their relay to pin 65 (Aux 4), set Aux 4 in the software to engine fan 1. If you want the fans to switch on at different temps then wire the 2nd fan relay to pin 62 (Inj5), set inj 5 to engine fan 2. Aux 4 was originally the AC clutch and Inj 5 was originally the purge valve.
  15. I wouldnt bother replacing parts yet. What do you mean by the triggerscope was not logical? Can you do one and attach it anyway? Do you have RPM showing in the software when it is cranking?
  16. Yep, thats pretty weird for sure. As far as I know the main inputs for the air mass calculation are MAP, charge temp, engine capacity, number of cylinders, VE & fuel charge cooling - and as you say all those appear to be (or should be) constant. I have asked engineering to take a look in case there is some other factor I have missed but my initial feeling is it looks like possibly a firmware issue. I will report back tomorrow.
  17. Adamw

    Engine Protection

    Depending on how many other safeties you want there are various ways to do it. The most important thing is as per Ducies example - use Differential fuel pressure rather than just fuel press so you dont need to complicate things with boost. The simplest option is one of the GP limiters. Example below would be for a normal target FP of 300KPa. If we have more than 275KPa, the ECU is not going to take any action (limit 10000RPM), if FP drops below 274KPa it is going to limit the engine to 2000RPM. Between 274 & 275 the limit will be interpolated between those values. The RPM axis is not normally needed for electric fuel pumps. Some people get more creative with MAP on one axis to allow more tolerance at low boost pressure etc but this is up to you.
  18. Injector timing isnt going to stop it running. Ignition timing you can confirm with a timing light. If your timing marks line up but it still doesnt show signs of life then try adding or subtracting 360 deg from your trigger offset.
  19. Sorry, I must have had a brain fart. I had configured the new CAN stream but left the mode to transmit generic dash so it wasnt sending out the changed stream. Try this one. 214771358_v13NewCAN 2.pclr
  20. Yes that will work fine. As far as I know we dont sell a combined MAP/IAT although some Link dealers may offer one. In performance applications the best position for a MAP sensor is not always the best position for an IAT sensor so I would probably lean towards keeping them separate.
  21. The M50 with Vanos has a hall sensor, the M50 without vanos uses a reluctor. You can tell them apart easy. The VR sensor has a male plug and a little nipple (iron pole poking out the end): The hall sensor has a female plug and no titty: So, which one have you got, and if its the hall, have you supplied power to it?
  22. You are over thinking it - Just bump the master up or down until it runs the best. Our base map appears to be set up for quite large injectors already - probably bigger than 1000cc by the looks. I would expect a 600cc injector will want a master fuel more like 10-14ms.
  23. Can you do a trigger scope and also attach your .pclr.
  24. Which V10 ecu do you have - the '04 or '07 model?
×
×
  • Create New...