Adamw

I just done a couple of quick checks on a thunder here. You are right about using them as a condition to switch other auxes - that doesnt seem to work correctly, I will report that to engineering to get fixed. But mine do appear function correctly as a GP outputs doing a lowside drive.

It will ignore the idle ign table up to 400RPM, above that, provided the lockouts are met it will be active.

This was from a few years ago when the 4.2 was the more common sensor, but things havent changed much from what I have seen. Factory Bosch laser trimmed calibration resistor on left, clone sensor calibration resistor on right.

Correct, it would be preferable it is powered up at the same time as the ECU so it can establish CAN comms. The CAN lambda wont enable the heater until after it receives info from the ECU that the engine is running. You will get CAN errors logged if ECU is powered up and CAN Lambda is not.

On the plug-in ECU's only AN Temp 1 & 2 have a software configurable pull-up. Temp 3 & 4 have a fixed internal 1Kohm pull up (no need for external).

No leave the DI latch turned off for all cases. This is from one of our test cars at Link: Im sorry, Im not sure off the top of my head whether the throttle target table actually plays a part in the cruise strategy. It will be easy to test yourself by temporarily putting some very soft numbers in your target table.

The cruise switch automatically latches by default. Leave the DI latch set to off. Use the momentary/toggle setting in the cruise settings to match the type of switch you have.

Yes, the cruise light function doesnot work at present sorry. It is on the list of things to fix.

The only time I have seen the "invalid pump current" error was when someone had used LSU 4.2 sensors. Are these genuine Bosch LSU 4.9 sensors? - not Chinese clones?

Your fuel density setting is wrong by a factor of ten. See below. Also your fuel table isnt suitable for modelled mode. Import the attached fuel table. VE Fuel Table .lte

Motec use hexidecimal notation for the CAN ID/Address, Link use decimal. Hex 384 (motec end) is decimal 900 (set at link end). Motec use the terminology "Alignment: word swap" to refer to LS byte first, so change that to normal. Uncheck the "signed" checkbox in the motec setup as you are sending from the Link unsigned data. Put a multiplier of 10 at either the Link end or Motec end. This is because Motec uses 0.1°C resolution for EGT, Link uses 1.0°C.

Use sensor ground, pullup on, active edge will likely be fine either way. Pull up on. On level could be high or low depending on which position you want to be on and off. Just watch the runtime once you have it wired and if it doesnt work how you want change to the opposite setting. The disable switch is there to completely disable traction control. If you want two tables those can be switched by another DI, a virtual aux, or pretty much whatever other condition you want.

Here you go. G4ThunderSample-Chris New CAN.pclr MXG 1.2 Kungfuice.zconfig

There are no signs of trigger issues in any of your logs, dwell is rock solid and RPM looks believable. What do you mean by "i think my trigger is indeed funny im 10 deegrees over on my tune and still making power". Have you checked the trigger offset with a timing light and confirmed that you get the commanded timing at both high and low rpm?

I dont know these engines well but the idle valve aux output is set to 20Hz, that is way lower than typical and I suspect the valve wont control well at all like that. More typical is 100-300Hz. Most ford valves seem to be happy around 150Hz.

There is no DSG functionality/strategies in our ECU's at this time so having the CAN messages isnt going to help you much.

Most of the USDM cars seem to use the ST205 ecu/pinout. If your harness is from a JDM ST185 then it will work with our ST185 ecu. The easiest way I found to tell them apart is check if the idle valve is connected to pins 5 & 18, if it is the ST185 ecu will work. If the idle valve is on pins 4 & 5 then you need the 205 ecu.

I dont think you are going to be able to control that. The rotary oil pump function and the CL stepper function both need positional feedback, they dont keep count of "steps" etc. I have never seen an RX8 one but it sounds like it must be open loop, the switch is possibly just a home/reset counter type thing?

The Atom does not have knock control. The lowest cost ecu we have with knock control is the Storm which is quite a step up in terms of price. Are you boosting it? If you are staying NA I would not bother with knock control, you will have to do something pretty wrong to make one of those things knock dangerously.

Yes, I did have a quick look. When testing I had something odd going on that I couldnt understand either. I had to set my trigger offset 360 different to yours to get the same cam angle test results, then my cam control was erratic like yours. With my trigger offset set to 0 my VVT worked properly. So Im not sure if that means the vvt mode is set up wrong or maybe some of these engines have teeth in different locations. I havent had a chance to discuss with our engineering guys yet. Can you try this map below, I have set up the user defined VVT mode. It will only give 35deg max advance but if it works for you it will give me some good info to pass back to engineering to check where the problem is. User defined.pclr

Crank is but obviously cant tell you if the cam is or not.

There is no signal showing on trig 2. What sensor did you get - the VR one or the hall one? Edit; actually just noticed the v/div is set to 20V, that is going to make it hard to see. These normally get set to something appropriate when you hit the capture button but it doesnt look right in this case. If you change the v/div to say 1V after capture does it then show anything?

Circuit below from an Evo 8 manual. The trigger for the fan relay should be off when the ignition is off as it comes from the main ECU main relay. Can you check if you still have power on connector A11X, pin 1 with ignition off.

Hi Joel, No we dont sorry. I believe even with the Syvecs it will not work "standalone", the DSG control needs CAN from the matching ABS and BCM units as well as the engine ECU.

Our GTR plug-in ECU has a 4 bar MAP sensor built in and it will use the two factory fitted knock sensors so nothing extra required for those. For boost control you will be best to upgrade to a MAC valve type (Link sell one), this just gets wired to the factory boost solenoid wires so no extra wiring items required for that. My suggestion for wideband is our CAN Lambda, you will also need the CANPCB cable and CANF plug to connect this to the ECU. If you want flex fuel you will need an Ethanol content sensor (Link sell one), this can be wired direct to DI8 on the main header.