Adamw

You need to connect audio knock equipment to confirm what knock level is real knock then set your threshold accordingly. The individual knock ignition trims are real time, just will remain in place until there is no knock detected in that region and the advance delay has expired. So if you see a knock ign trim of "-3", then that cylinder has 3 deg less timing at that time than what was commanded.

Also, it would be helpful to have a copy of your map and a log. 3 partial screenshots showing the same picture doesnt help much. How to do a log: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_P1LRANeO4A

Fault code 14 is "AN Volt 2 at ground". AN volt 2 on our S6 ecu is the oil metering pump position. Do you still have the OMP fitted? have you calibrated it per the manual?

These are not from a running engine, they are just some I made to get someone else running. I believe they can have either a 4 tooth or 24 tooth wheel in the distributor so both options below. These are from an Xtreme but will load into an Atom ok. 4efe 24 tooth dizzy.pclr 4efe 4 tooth dizzy.pclr

The most common problem I see is flaky OTG adaptors so I would try a couple of others if you can. Also, according to this comment below, it may suggest not all android devices work: If you have a windows 10 PC or laptop you can install realdash on that to confirm if you have a comms issue or Android issue.

Crazy. I dont think cats are actually a legal requirement over here so you rarely see a performance car with them. That would have had me scratching my head...

That seems like an odd assumption. I have no info on 86 CAN but it would be highly unusual for any OEM to use sequential or compound messaging which it sounds like what you are describing. Unfortunately there is no way to do this at present. The only thing you could do which I admit is a horrible hack is to use the CAN DI to switch on an aux, then use that aux to trigger a real DI set up as starter switch.

The engine capacity setting will mostly just scale the airflow calculation up or down. So if you get it wrong your VE numbers wont quite match reality. Probably not a big deal.

It is actually illegal for any ECU to "fudge" the OBD2 readiness monitors. You may be able to temporarily fit a stock ecu (can be reflashed to make it run well enough to drive) at inspection time. I dont know much about the tests they perform in CA or the legalities however so you will have to research that yourself.

Actually it's not possible to share sensors with MTX-D, it does something fruity measuring all sensors using a single ADC and switches the pull-up on/off when it takes the measurement. See this post for more info:

I would say that is possibly your problem. Many timing lights will fire off the dwell edge rather than spark edge when connected to the primary side of the coil. The correct way to check timing on a COP engine is to pull the coil out and run a short HT lead between the coil and sparkplug, with the timing light attached to that. Something like this:

Many people with performance GTR's dont use the fuel pump speed controller so that means aux 1 and 2 are available. But if you want to keep the fuel pump controller then my suggestion would be to move the AC clutch and AC request wires to aux 11 and D9 on the expansion connector so that frees up Aux 3 and DI4 for the VCam.

Yes, the linked 36-1 and a cam sync will be a great option. They would be the bare necessities to get ignition only (you could even do wasted spark without the sync). If you added a TPS you could do full 3D ignition and idle ignition control which can make a decent improvement from a drivability perspective if it is road driven.

You could try their Europe shop: https://shop.vems.hu/catalog/hall-p-162.html

What engine and what ecu?

We have a plug-in ECU for the E36 with M50TUB25 engine, so that will be the easiest option. We dont offer any tuning services but there are plenty of dealers around that will. A remote tune is probably not something I would recommend with a roots blower, it will be highly susceptible to knock.

Yes, you have it all correct. Note there is also sensor ground on the expansion loom or on the original TPS plug (& 5V!) if either of those are easier. On this ECU the E-throttle H-bridge power is already routed internally, so you dont need to wire in any external E-throttle relay - but you do still need to assign any spare aux output to E-throttle relay for it to work. You can use Aux 11 or something like that.

No it will unlikely need anything major changed in the general tune assuming it is tuned well to start with. It will however need someone experienced to set up and tune the idle control parameters. It is not just a matter of connecting the valve and it will work perfectly.

A couple of options - if you have an idle valve you can use the ISC override setting to open the idle valve when antilag is on, that will unlikely be enough however. The other option is to do "group N" style where you adjust the throttle stop so that the throttle is always open a bit. You then may need cyclic idle to control idle speed when antilag is off. Yes, you can use a virtual aux to enable the anti-lag. This means you can add logic such as ECT and/or EGT must be below a certain value. Be aware you will not be able to use vacuum assisted brakes with antilag. Have you tried anything tune related to see if the lag can be improved? Some engines/turbos for instance seem to spool better with more advance and relatively lean mixture, others seem to improve with retard - so you may find some improvement just from experimenting with some tune variables in the problem area.

You are meant to do this while the "set base timing" screen is open, then the advance is locked to whatever value is in the top box.

See my earlier comment:

The ECU is already connected to the crank sensors, it already knows RPM otherwise it wouldnt be able to run the engine. You shouldnt need to do any wiring. Just open up a new page in PC link and add a gauge to it and assign it to engine speed.

It is true that hydraulic lifters can "pump up" with lots of "pops" in the exhaust manifold and this can cause the exhaust valve to open more than expected, which would then may cause the valve to kiss the piston. However the result is normally bent valve(s) or worst case a hole in the piston. It is hard to imagine how a valve with only a 6mm diameter stem would be strong enough to bend or break the conrod.

To me it looks like just your knock target is a bit conservative at higher RPM. The small lone spike on cyl 2 at -12:24 maybe knock - but sometimes even an odd bump in the road can cause random spikes like that when the background noise is low. Really the only way to know is to confirm with audio. Your knk level on cyl2 & 6 in your screenshots above look worse than they are due to you havent different scales on the Y axis. I would drop the RPM high lockout a few hundred RPM so it disables before the RPM limiter kicks in.

If it connects to each cylinder then that usually works well - it will just be the balance/sync making it look ugly. If it is only connected to a single cylinder then it is never going to work well - if this is the case change the fuel load source to BAP so that the erratic MAP doesnt effect the fueling.