Adamw

Yep, thats about right. So are you sure the ground side of the sensor is connected to the ground pin?

I think I have already answered most of your questions via the tech support case. The OEM ECU definitely wont be happy with the latter engine as it uses a completely different trigger pattern.

What do you mean by "not turning over"? Is the crankshaft turning or not?

It appears the cam sensor signal is being shorted to ground somewhere. If you unplug the sensor and measure resistance between ground and each of the sensor wires coming from the ecu you should see near zero ohms on one pin and very high resistance on the other. Can you confirm?

It seems like a wiring problem to me if there is no signal at all coming through. Another quick test you can do is swap the trig 1/2 pins at the ecu plug. Then if you get a signal on trig 2 and nothing on trig 1 it confirms wiring.

Currently it looks like you cant do PWM FP speed on an inj or ign output. How about aux 3 on pin 7? Otherwise you could move the tacho to INJ8 and use Aux 4 for the FP Speed.

I suspect it will still work ok, you are going to have to try it and see. It will probably make more noise than expected at low PW. I have heard of guy's doing it at 100Hz due to some of the cheap SSR's not working at higher frequencies so it should be ok.

Can you try swapping the wires on the cam sensor.

As far as I know yes. Our RX8 trigger mode expects a 36-2-2-2 crank wheel pattern, similar to subaru & suzuki etc.

Unfortunately there is no trigger scope in the Atom. Dom, since the errors happen at low load (low ignition energy) I think I would be leaning more towards a waveform problem rather than an ignition noise problem initially. Maybe the cam tooth is crossing over one of the crank teeth or one of the sensors is wired incorrect polarity. Do you have a 2 channel scope that could capture the crank and cam signals?

There is no such thing. Every engine is different, you can use values from a completely different engine and expect it will be anywhere near optimised. If you cant get it on a Dyno then you will have to come up with a tuning strategy based on logging to find the best cam angle to achieve best VE.

It should hopefully be fixed in the next release, but I dont have an idea when that will be yet. As far as I can see it is not going to affect how your car runs right - you just need to set the gain back to the correct setting after you change the target table? I believe this can happen when a firmware update adds a new feature that shifts a memory allocation. You just need to reset the statistics.

I've done a few modern cars and havent found the 6 ID's to be much of a limitation yet. You can always connect the 2nd CAN port to the same bus to get 12 ID's. The user CAN was not really designed to allow OEM integration, even though you can usually get pretty acceptable integration in most cases. It is more designed to allow communication with other 3rd party motorsport devices. The bigger limitation that you will find when trying to achieve full OEM integration is the advanced math that is usually needed - checksums, counters or heart beats with odd increments, odometer ticks, immobiliser decryption etc. Usually to do this more advanced stuff we would have to write it into the firmware as a predefined stream. If it is a relatively common car and you have a complete record of all messages and what is required I can probably get it added to the firmware.

I just had a quick look. There is some pretty odd stuff in there. It looks like it has been tuned for flex fuel but there is only one ignition map and no other corrections for ethanol content. Usually E85 can take a heap more advance than petrol so what fuel was that ignition table tuned for? VVT looks like the offsets are set incorrectly. The RH inlet cam is showing 10deg advance when it is in the fully home position. That means it will be getting 10Deg less than what is commanded. The VVT and ignition tables both have big "holes" in them around the cruise area that is going to make it drive pretty horrible. Boost control not working great at all. Fuel control is not great either. I would say this is due to there only being 1 VE table set up, which doesnt usually cover flex fuel well enough especially when injectors havent been flow tested on both fuels. I think the saving grace is you are running it on relatively high eth %, which is relatively forgiving. I wouldnt give it a hard time especially on petrol until it is looked at by someone more competent or interested. If you want to PM me the tuners name I will pass it on to the right people to consider.

Yes I would expect most pumps to be happy with 1000Hz PWM (max rating for the hella relay). I suggest you use aux 1-4 rather than 5 in my example above. Aux 5-8 can only do 300Hz max.

There is nothing wrong with your settings, there is definitely no signal from the cam sensor. What does it have for a cam sensor - is it inside an old distributor/CAS or is it a dedicated cam sensor. If you unplug the wiring off the cam sensor and measure the resistance between each pin to ground, is either pin shorted to ground?

Yes, I have set up a couple of these before, they work well. Yes you can do that. Another option is to re-program the Link CAN Lambda to 500K (can be done with PC Link), then you can have the AEM and Link device both on the same bus. Yes, I can set that up for you once you decide which bus you are going to connect them and whether you want the Link to be "Lambda 1" or "Lambda 5".

The mini base map was from a near stock R53 that one of our dealers tuned in house. I dont know which model. It is not based on a stock tune. After adjusting the master fuel so the AFR is in the ball park and checking all sensor calibrations etc, it will be close enough to drive it gently to a tuner.

Attached a pic and a text file note of a set up I done for a local guy a couple of years ago, it has since been used by quite a few and seems to do it ok. This gives a single bump per press, it doesnt do the "hold down to creep". Bump Box Function explanation.txt

Those Cherry/ZF sensors need quite a strong pull up resistor to work properly. The wheel design looks ok to me. The first thing I would try is adding the correct value pull-up resistor as recomended in the datasheet. The internal pull-up in the ECU is 4.7Kohm to 5V. Cherry recommend 1K when powered by 5V so it is quite different.

I suspect that mode has been locked to "high polarity" as the Subaru and Supra that commonly use this control method both work this way. Set up as below will give you something similar.

Have a look in our Evo4-8 base map for the correct settings. Injector drive 6 should be set to FP Speed and the speed control method shout be set as below.

There is no built-in calibration for a 250psi sensor. Use Cal 4,5 or 6. I suggest you input the calibration values in kpa (it will still be displayed/logged in psi). Normally for a 250psi sensor would be input value A = 0.5V. Input Value B = 4.5V. Output value A= 0Kpa, output value B = 1724kpa No I think he's dreaming. MAP is an Acronym for Manifold Absolute Pressure. 0Psi Absolute is a total vacuum. 14.7psi is normal atmospheric pressure so your MAP is reading correct. If you want to see 0psi at atmosphere then use the parameter MGP (manifold Gauge Pressure) instead. Yes A 4Bar MAP sensor would allow 3 Bar above atmosphere.

There's not quite enough channels recorded to give a conclusive diagnosis, but my feeling is it is trigger errors causing the rev limit to activate. This is because many of the limiter events are associated with a spike in the RPM trace. (FYI, a good parameter to log is "Limits Flag Word") The reason you dont see spikes every time is the logged RPM is averaged over one TDC event (90degs) so it will depend how bad the trigger error is as to whether it will result in a logged spike or not. I notice you have a hall sensor on a 36-1 wheel, what sensor have you used and what is the wheel/tooth design like? Can you give us a picture or something?.

Aux 4 (pin A20), Aux 3 (A15) or Aux 8 (exp) would be easier if you have either of those free